Buying advice

ifconfig

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Hi,

I'm probably about to take a look at a 4runner 1995, 3.0 V6 gas with a 5 gear manual tranny.
Is there anything I should look out for on this car more than rust and normal service stuff?
It will be my daily driver so consumption and driveability somewhat highly prioritized.

Regards
Magnus
 
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Hi,

I'm probably about to take a look at a 4runner 1995, 3.0 V6 gas with a 5 gear manual tranny.
Is there anything I should look out for on this car more than rust and normal service stuff?
It will be my daily driver so consumption and driveability somewhat highly prioritized.

Regards
Magnus

Well good luck with consumption, I get 14mpg in my '92 (it's an auto tho). But if I was you, with the 3.0 3VZE I'd listen for ticking coming from the engine. A slight tick on these is normal (just their nature) but if it was like mine then it'll need a valve job. Good luck!
 
3L 4Runners got their flaws and they got their fans. you should dig it up , insights easy to find , instead of ask for a new write up.

head gaskets particularly #6 have been an issue overcome by many. the rest is a pretty solid toyota and imho one tough small truck.

there are new / "improved casting" heads (no idea whats behind that claim) available fairly cheap if this engine has that problem.



ledfloyd; like the name. I myself have a pinkzepplin but thats kind of personal for this venue.


RE Valve ticking - disagree with that conclusion. These motors do NOT have hydraulic lifters , basically a 'solid lifter', more accurately a bucket or cup lifter, gap controlled using a shim under cam lobe, placed in the "cup" that rides on the valve stem, which sets valve gap ...

typical valve wear will be more like a valve RECEDING into head from closing forces, which would DECREASE the valve-to-cam gap, which would not really increase valve noise, more like reduce it. I got to guess actual valve wear ( tip getting worn, valve becoming shorter) is almost unheard of in this design. The worry here is insufficient gap allowing zero or less clearance , prevent valve from closing 100%.

I like this cup & bore arrangement, by limiting opening action to a well aligned (with stem) force, it really limits the sideways forces on a valve from cam lobe passes , which tend to rock the valve in the valve guide and hamper sealing; these 3vz motors are resistant to valve wear like that .
 
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Thanks for your input!

I get the impression that the engine is pretty rock solid but when it needs work it's pretty tight around it. Right or wrong?
How about the timing belt? I've read both 60k and 100k interval. What I understand its non-destructive if it happens to break.

I hope to get some pictures of the car tonight so I can go look at it after work tomorrow.
The boring part is that it's 400 km one-way and winter :/

Regards
Magnus
 
So.. I went to look at the car. I felt more sorry for the guy trying to sell it for the price he asked than me driving 400 km one-way to look at it.

It was very rusty and to make it a decent daily driver I would need to replace all doors, hatch at the back, front fenders, rear fenders would be nice, parts of the floor, the whole exhaust, service engine and gearbox and tc and axles.

I made him a very low offer, about half of the prices he asked but he didn't take it and I'm kinda glad afterwards I didn't got it.

On my way back I went to look at another, a -94 in good shape I was told.
And WOW that's excellent shape. 170000 km only and everything was good with it. Not one scratch, bump or tiny rusty spot. Everything i perfect condition and always serviced at Toyota and so on. And he dropped the price 50% for me not far from the price of the first one. So I will probably buy it. I hadn't all the money so I'm collecting money now.

I'll put pictures here when I get it.

I drove 950 km and were looking at two cars and had breakfast at a hotel, everything in 13 hours :)
 

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