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C4 FAB **Official** Rock Sliders Group Buy #2 (Closes 3-3-17)

Awesome sliders guys!!!!
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when we doing a group buy for that awesome lo pro front bumper :high5::gossip:

:snacker:....anyone else interested besides me :shrug: lol
We have been thinking about a Lo-Pro GB over the last few weeks. We have to make sure we are in good standing with our production times before we offer a GB. We would like to get caught up first and cut our lead times down to 2 or 3 weeks first before we offer a GB. Currently we are having trouble getting our lead times down below 8 weeks, so it may be a few months before we could offer a Lo-Pro GB.

Are you going to offer another group buy? I'd love to get a pair of these!


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Oh, I'm sure that are many of us, including me, are ready to roll once it opens up

I believe one will open up at the start of next year - according to what was posted previously. I waiting for it myself. Lol
We are planning to offer one around the beginning of next year. We have had a lot of requests for another one already, but we just cant do it right now.
 
sending positive vibes and energy your way!! I'm chomping on the bit for a front bumper!!! Thanks Caleb for the reply, your stuff is awesome! Holding out for this one once opened! I bet we can get everyone that got sliders on the list again for this one!

We have been thinking about a Lo-Pro GB over the last few weeks. We have to make sure we are in good standing with our production times before we offer a GB. We would like to get caught up first and cut our lead times down to 2 or 3 weeks first before we offer a GB. Currently we are having trouble getting our lead times down below 8 weeks, so it may be a few months before we could offer a Lo-Pro GB.





We are planning to offer one around the beginning of next year. We have had a lot of requests for another one already, but we just cant do it right now.
 
I got the sliders back from powder coating and bolted them up. They look really good and are rock solid. I like that they easily stick out far enough that the mini-mes can still use them as a step. Everyone else is posting them clean but I drive dirt roads almost every day so dusty is their normal state.

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I really like the logo silhouette so I decided to highlight it a bit. Threw some tan on the frame to match the truck and show through the cutout. I mean if I ever go really of kilter someone may notice...but probably not.

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sending positive vibes and energy your way!! I'm chomping on the bit for a front bumper!!! Thanks Caleb for the reply, your stuff is awesome! Holding out for this one once opened! I bet we can get everyone that got sliders on the list again for this one!

Thanks! We would like to offer a Lo-Pro GB for sure, it will just take some time to get prepared.
 
I got the sliders back from powder coating and bolted them up. They look really good and are rock solid. I like that they easily stick out far enough that the mini-mes can still use them as a step. Everyone else is posting them clean but I drive dirt roads almost every day so dusty is their normal state.

35304928834_13283fda6c_z.jpg


I really like the logo silhouette so I decided to highlight it a bit. Threw some tan on the frame to match the truck and show through the cutout. I mean if I ever go really of kilter someone may notice...but probably not.

36105267196_4ac9860e38_z.jpg
Those turned out great!
 
If going with the powder coat option, is sandblasting typically required, or will a chemical prep treatment suffice?

I'm still debating on what to do...I'm getting powder coat quotes ranging from about $275 to $500. This makes me lean towards the paint-them-myself option, but I read mixed reviews on that. It seems that some people screw up on the paint and end up going the powder coat option anyway.
 
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If going with the powder coat option, is sandblasting typically required, or will a chemical prep treatment suffice?

I'm still debating on what to do...I'm getting powder coat quotes ranging from about $275 to $500. This makes me lean towards the paint-them-myself option, but I read mixed reviews on that. It seems that some people screw up on the paint and end up going the powder coat option anyway.

I paid $125 for powder coating which included prep.
 
Mine is powder coat right now. Costing me $300 for both sliders plus the hardware. The joys of living in California.
 
If going with the powder coat option, is sandblasting typically required, or will a chemical prep treatment suffice?

I'm still debating on what to do...I'm getting powder coat quotes ranging from about $275 to $500. This makes me lean towards the paint-them-myself option, but I read mixed reviews on that. It seems that some people screw up on the paint and end up going the powder coat option anyway.

If you're getting them powder coated, then any GOOD shop will "bake" them for awhile at high heat to burn off any residue. That being said, I do not believe you need to get them sandblasted.

If you're actually going to be sliding on them, you might want to paint them yourself as powdercoating will not holdup against serious rock scratches. Plus, it'll be easier to touch up when you scratch them. If they're not likely to see some serious off-roading action, get them powdercoated.
 
If going with the powder coat option, is sandblasting typically required, or will a chemical prep treatment suffice?

I'm still debating on what to do...I'm getting powder coat quotes ranging from about $275 to $500. This makes me lean towards the paint-them-myself option, but I read mixed reviews on that. It seems that some people screw up on the paint and end up going the powder coat option anyway.

Sandblasting is not "required" but it is the best way to do it for sure. The sand blasting creates a porous surface that the powder coat sticks to very well. From my experience the chemical bath is a joke. Its supposed to clean the oils off and etch the surface so the powder will stick. Sand blasting will etch the surface much better than the chemical wash.

From all of the products we have had powder coated locally over the years, here is the best process that will last the longest:

1) Sand blast.
2) Bake for about a half hour to burn out any remaining moisture or oils.
3) Coat with zinc rich primer while material is still hot. This helps the primer sort of "suck" into the tight corners and hard to reach areas.
4) Bake.
5) Coat with top coat of final color.
6) Bake.

That process has lasted the longest and proven to be the most durable for us. Of course I'm sure you will get mixed reviews from others.
Our local shop charges us about 250.00 for a set of rock sliders done in that process.

People will argue that powder coat is not necessary for sliders that actually get used on the trails because it will get scratched up anyways and you will need to touch up with spray paint.
I disagree. Powder coat (if done correctly) will provide a much better quality and much longer lasting finish that will not fade and wear out nearly as fast as rattle can. When using the sliders off road, the bottom of the slider is the only part that gets scratched up which can be touched up with a rattle can when needed. For the rest of the slider its nice to have the quality finish of powder coat so that the top and most visible parts of the slider last the longest and look the best.
 
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Installed my sliders finally. Powder coated the main part of the slider matte black and the top plate with a wrinkle finish.
Since I was the only other V8 4th gen to order a set and there is apparently a difference in cross member placement from the V6. Not a huge deal.
Caleb @ C4 was awesome and more than willing to accommodate any solution I wanted to fix this problem. Since my sliders will actually bounce off of rocks every once in awhile I chose to weld the front part to the frame. TaDa! Problem fixed with no extra cost to anyone.
Thx again C4 Fab for making a great product. Couldn't be happier with them.



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Anyone have an idea of when another may start? Got the wife convinced to get a set.


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I have my driver's side bolted on with only a couple of bolts, but it looks like I'm going to have to trim my rear door trim in order to open the door. I didn't see anything mentioned about this for SR5's?

Also, it looks like at least on my driver's side so far, there's a pretty large gap between 45-ish degree angle and the cross member. Is that typical as well?
 

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