Calipers

[skiwindjunkie]

I've done some searching in the forum but didn't find my answer. I am getting new calipers/pads/rotors replaced by Vianor shortly. My calipers have not froze. One did on the right front, on island, @ 55K. It was a nightmare as my rotor had to be ground at a price that will really make me look dumb. Living on an island has it downfalls. Expensive auto repair vs. off island fair auto repair & an expensive boat ticket. I also can not be without my 4R for work reasons. So I try & do preventive maintenance on it prior to summer tourist season when I am off island in the Spring months. So @ 94,000 miles I am told my brake pads are pretty much done. My calipers I am told are seriously rusted & I should replace them too. My confusion is with the pads/calipers. They have an assembly system that come with both. I know my calipers should last longer than my pads. So if the pads go then do I have to replace the whole assembly or can this be disassembled to put on just new pads? Is there any benefit to doing the parts separate in the long run? Are my old calipers worth money? Can I sell them on Craig’s-list because I am assuming my mechanic is going to send them in for rebuild cash? Duh, duh, duh. I have not read T4R for dummies. Thanks for any help & patience. :shrug:

 

[sheik]

I have owned many different makes of vehicles and always done the brakes myself.

All of them have been driven past 100k miles and I have never had to replace the calipers. Usually pads and rotors, so I am a little surprised you are being told your calipers need replacing.

Did I mention I live in Minnesota?

Pads can be replaced independently of calipers.

If you're going to replace rotors it is best practice to replace the pads at the same time so you don't destroy your new rotors with your unevenly worn pads.

If I were you, I'd go with pads and rotors and ignore the advice to replace the calipers.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I've done some searching in the forum but didn't find my answer. I am getting new calipers/pads/rotors replaced by Vianor shortly. My calipers have not froze. One did on the right front, on island, @ 55K. It was a nightmare as my rotor had to be ground at a price that will really make me look dumb. Living on an island has it downfalls. Expensive auto repair vs. off island fair auto repair & an expensive boat ticket. I also can not be without my 4R for work reasons. So I try & do preventive maintenance on it prior to summer tourist season when I am off island in the Spring months. So @ 94,000 miles I am told my brake pads are pretty much done. My calipers I am told are seriously rusted & I should replace them too. My confusion is with the pads/calipers. They have an assembly system that come with both. I know my calipers should last longer than my pads. Maybe... People in high corrosion places (like yourself) may run close to needing both at the same time. Modern brake pads can last almost 100k or better these days. In the old days pads lasted 30k-50k. That meant the calipers got exercised (full travel of the pistons) and the brake system generally was flushed once every 50k. IMHO that helps prevents the seizing. So if the pads go then do I have to replace the whole assembly or can this be disassembled to put on just new pads? You can easily do just the pads. If the caliper isn't frozen or 'sticky' then a simple pad replacement followed by a bleeding makes sense. If the corrosion has begun to seize the pistons replacing the caliper is probably a good idea with your circumstances. I would think you'd only need the one if the other one was done at 55k. Is there any benefit to doing the parts separate in the long run? Money if you truly don't need a caliper. Are my old calipers worth money? Core value but basically no. A DIY guy would just buy rebuilt calipers from Rockauto.com or NAPA for not much money, $50-$100ea. (without the pads). Can I sell them on Craig’s-list because I am assuming my mechanic is going to send them in for rebuild cash? Not worth the time or effort and I doubt they'd sell. Duh, duh, duh. I have not read T4R for dummies. Thanks for any help & patience. :shrug:

Hope that helps... Remember, just 'cause the calipers are ugly doesn't mean the important parts are corroded to the point of needing replacement.
:cheers:

 

[sheik]

I also wanted to mention that it is pretty common for the slide pins on the caliper carrier to rust in place. Perhaps your mechanic didn't communicate that correctly and that is what you have going on?

The caliper carrier has slide pins allow the caliper and brake pad assembly to float over the rotor. If one of the pins is rusted and prevents flotation of the assembly you may notice a slight pull to one side and decreased fuel economy since the pads on the frozen carrier might be dragging on the rotor.

I just replaced a caliper carrier when I did pads and rotors on my F250 a month ago. It was $37 for the caliper carrier and new pins.

 

[skiwindjunkie]

I do notice a slight pull to one side. You all are so helpful! Great advice. I love this site!:jump: