Calling all 5vz fe mechanics....

Spark plugs

so I got one more pic that is kind of interesting. These are the spark plugs that i pulled out of the engine. The ones on the left are the right bank cylinder #2,4,6 and the left bank for the last 3.. cylinder # 1,3,5.. I noticed how the ones on the left were kind of burnt on the ceramic portion of the plugs. this is also the side I had the Miss fire code on.. (#6) the side the gasket was bad on.

Anyone know if the burnt parts are definately from the blown gasket?

Btw thanks for the advice! I unbolted the cross pipe and wiggled the heads right out.
 

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Head bolts

Ok so toyota recommends to replace the head bolts anytime you take them off. Something to do with the head bolts have so much torque on them that they dont load back the same way, or wont hold the same load as good.
Just for everyones refferences.

head bolt, part number - 9091002077- $6.38
There are.. 16 of them for both banks.
 
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The plugs can look like them when they run hot; I'd recommend running the dual plugs all around when the heads go back in.

The top of the piston is that clean due to the coolant leakage on that cylinder. Otherwise, I really can't see of anything wrong but I would take it to a machine shop to have them look it over for non visible cracks.

The Fel Pros should be fine.

And those bolts are TYY, so use new ones.
 
what does tyy stand for? I have seen it a few times but didnt know what exactly it stood for. I definately will be taking them to a machinist if I can get that broken crank bolt out..
 
It's TTY, which means Torque To Yield. You definitely want to use new headbolts.

FWIW, left and right is determined as if you were sitting in the Drivers seat. So the Drivers side is the left side, and the Passenger side is the right side.
 
the pics in this thread are pretty good for anyone who is unfamiliar with head issues.

are you going to have the heads resurfaced?
 
It's TTY, which means Torque To Yield. You definitely want to use new headbolts.

FWIW, left and right is determined as if you were sitting in the Drivers seat. So the Drivers side is the left side, and the Passenger side is the right side.

I can never remember which one is which.. Seems like the book, mechanics and the computers are all calling the banks different things. Thanks for the info!
 
Good job on getting them out! It looks like in that last pic #6 is the culprit. From what i've heard felpro is good stuff. As for the plugs I'm pretty sure the manual is very specific on which ones to use, so I would stick with those...

Your heads don't looked cracked so that's awesome. I would suggest checking the clearance between the cam shaft lobes and the shims and making sure they're within specs since you could do that when you're putting it all back together.
 
Yeah I recently learned that the runners are suppose to have the dual prong NGK's... I'm still learning.
 
A little progress..

Well just an update.

I wound up having to take the engine out to get the crankshaft bolt out. I had to go pick up an engine stand and lift to help out. Luckily I got a stand and lift for 175 bucks off of craigslist and it worked great! The engine is hanging out on the stand ready for me to re instal it.

I sent the head in to get pressure tested and everything came back good, no cracks or warps.

Going to be putting everything back together starting tomorrow. I also have a new set of cv axles to instal too and the sway bar drop that izz made for me.
 
thanks guys.. I will probably be working on it a little everyday till its done. So yall know where I live just give a shout before you come over. I'm off work for a good while now so i have a ton of time... going to try and finish a bunch of projects to. Mainly my dual battery set up that I have been postponing for a long time now.
 
I want to get these heads off and decide what I am going to do next.. If I have to spend more than 1000 on repairs.. I think I amm going to try and do a 1uz swap!!

I'm liking this thread because I am in the same boat you are, except I have not removed the heads yet.

I'm thinking, if there are any problems with the heads, a 1uz is in order. :tongue:
 
I was curious is it recommended that you change the knock sensor wire pigtails on these 3.4L. I know on the 3.0 that if you didn't then you would get a check engine light. I'm pulling my heads tomorrow. I have a 97 t4r with 225k . Oh yeah I'm new on this forum so how's it going. My name is Dave.
 

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