Calvin & Hobbes - Life after the Red Wagon leads to a T4R?

LOLSNOW

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Where do I start? Maybe I should do a origin's story - LOLSNOW's humble beginnings as a auto aficionado who's gifted with the rare talent of telling the difference between a Harley and Ferrari using only his left ear.

Or perhaps I could just do what we all want to see. Cool **** I do to my 4runner. So here we go!
 
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Dimming Mirror - BlackVue - Radar[

Dimming Mirror - BlackVue - Radar

Tools possibly needed:
-Hammer
-Blowtorch
-Jeep Emblem (For sacrificial purposes)


Difficulty:
-2 Beers

Links:
https://store.blendmount.com/blendm...rtbeltronics-standard-2000r-series-p2981.aspx
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H7WJIYC
https://store.blendmount.com/mirror...line-fuse-with-military-grade-taps-p3513.aspx
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=e3gOHE1K/nNt0yyY/M/Tkg==


So I wanted to install these automotive necessities so I can avoid cops and if that fails, fully document one of the word's most epic violent police chases and then sell my story to Oprah or some other famous American media proprietor.

Now I wont go into too much detail about install because it's easy. Using either your hammer or blowtorch (Primitive tools work too... ie. screwdriver) simply remove your mirror from the windshield and bolt on the blendmount.

The Dash cam is simple. Just stick it on the windshield with the supplied sticker/adhesive. Now if you're one of those annoying excuse for a human who posts videos on Facebook/Instagram in Yao Ming Mode then you can recreate your cinematic masterpieces by rotating the cam 90 degrees before mounting it.


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Hopefully you end up with something like this.​


Now Power. I'm a fan of keeping thins neat and tidy. Behind your dimming mirror there's a plug. The Blue wire is 12V+ and the other is negative. Now you'll need to hack up the power cables for the mirror tap and Blackvue Dash Cam and if you really used a hammer and blowtorch AND successfully removed the rear view mirror you're pretty much qualified to do the next steps. Cut each power cable so that it's approx 8inches long and strip the ends about 5mm. Using a multimeter identify which is the (+) and (-) on your Blackvue power cable - the mirror tap will already have this identified with the red wire being (+) and black being (-). Now using the terminals from mouser crimp the two (+) cables together and with the other crimp the two (-) cables together.


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Combo BlackVue and Mirror Tap Harness​


Hopefully your harness looks like the above. If so plug the terminals into the dimming mirror's wiring harness with the correct polarity and plug in the radar and blackvue!


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Rear Dashcam Plexiglass Mount​


For those who opted for the rear camera mount I took a bit of plexiglass and created a mount. It uses the OEM head liner mounts and gives the rear dash cam a solid area to mount on.

Now. Burn the Jeep emblem and drink your two beers.
 
General Wiring

General Wiring

Tools possibly needed:
-Too many!

Difficulty:
- Macallan 12

Links:
http://apexoverland.com/#!/Apex-Overland-Electrical-Mounting-Plate/p/82140711/category=19884034
https://www.teamconcours.com/#!/Uni...-Cooper-Bussmann/p/65063101/category=13963121
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GHG-1575-4-Inch-Grommets/dp/B000BOBW4S
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=WIRE2
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=54200413virtualkey64910000virtualkey649-54200413
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=54200409virtualkey64910000virtualkey649-54200409
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...4-Lvirtualkey59690000virtualkey829-10762774-L
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...2-Lvirtualkey59690000virtualkey829-10762802-L
https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-31m/heppc2150t=m
Toyota Battery Cage for Tacoma, 4Runner, & FJ Trucks | Pelfreybilt
https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/onx6-dual-control-40-amber-white-led-light-bar.asp
https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/s2-pro-led-flood-work.asp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NKVCLQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board


I really don't no where to take this guide as it has been almost 2 months of effort. I studied and stole a lot of members ideas here and essentially incorporated them into my build. I also felt there were still some uncharted territories left since I ran into a few road blocks myself.

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Bussman Fuse Relay Box​

I'd say the beating heart of my rig... where all the blood, sweat, and unspeakable profanities in several languages were had was the Bussmann Fuse Relay Box. I picked this up because I hated how my engine bay looked with all the wiring from HIDs, a Light Bar, and another Light bar. I wont go too much into the soldering, crimping, looming, and plumbing of wire as writing those details would just kill me.


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Group 31 Odyssey - Pelfrey Batt Cage Powerder Coated - Bussmann - Apex Overland Mounting Plate​

Here's the bay in all its glory! If you have parents who had high expectations when you were a wee little child then you'll notice the RED on RED battery & battery tray, the floating Bussmann Fuse Relay Box [another member flush mounted their's], and a few exposed wires on the top right part section of the bay.

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Air On Board Switches with custom harness​

To fire the relays in the Bussmann I picked up some switches from Air On Board. Since each switch needed a dedicated ground, 12v Hot, and dim, I built a harness to clean the wiring up. As of this moment I have the switches hooked up to:
1) Roof Light Bar
2) Bumper Light Bar
3) Rear Light Bar
4) Side Lights (camping)
5) Water Pump

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Delphi SEALED Connectors

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MIL-W-22759 Wire with Delphi Pins​

The next area I focused on was the roof. Plan was to run 4 to 5 high power accessories with easy connectors if I ever decide to change it up or temporarily repurpose power from one accessory to another (Roof top tent, disco ball, etc etc). The issue with running this many accessories often involves drilling the roof to route wires or simply leave them exposed. Not wanting to do either I used MIL-Spec wire from Pegasus Auto Racing. Milspec wire has seriously tough insulation that is thinner and can hold a few extra amps vs common everyday wire. THIS IS THE WIRE YOU NEED TO USE if you're going to power stuff on the roof and you'll see why below

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(3) 12 Guage Mil Spec Wire under the passenger windshield gasket

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Wire fitted in weather stripping - Baja Designs OnX6 Dual Control 40"

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Custom wiring harness for roof lights

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Wiring and lights tucked and hidden in Eezi Awn K9 Rack powering 4 Baja Designs S2 PROs​


...to be continued
 
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Love the ingenuity for the rear mount.

It's no cutting board of course, BUT this could be a great way to get around a rear tire carrier for a back up camera. I can't belief you didn't think of this Jeff.

OP look forward to seeing more!
 
Onboard Shower

On the subject of showers

Tools possibly needed:
-Irish Spring
Shower Loofah


Difficulty
- TBD

Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182BETBE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00144BANC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019I3YCFS


Now I'm recently relocated and already I am using it as a poor excuse for my failures in meeting new people. Listening to KISS-FM I've learned throwing in the 'izzle' sound in the middle of any string of random thoughts is the preferred way of correspondence here in sunny Socal, however, I refuse to say such things that will instantly vaporize my sex appeal and downgrade my official Standard & Poor's matability rating.

To rectify this I purchased the 4Runner as a quasi last ditch effort to impress the ladies. I based it on the logic that if I was attracted to this silver towering hunk of steel from Japan that the opposite sex would surely be as well. Now I don’t have much concrete scientific data but let's just say it's gonna work.

Except.

When the subject of going out on an adventure. Now I’ve made significant process on a lot of fronts and even negotiated successfully how she could do without a few days of snapchat and that our relationship could totally survive if we missed the revival of the ice bucket challenge. But almost always when the subject of hot showers comes up I get a cold hard mean “No thank you. Go by yourself!”

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Shower parts​

So to fix this issue I’m going to build a shower. Here’s what I have. Pump, heater element, digital thermostat. Now I don’t have a lot of answers just yet and a lot of this is still in the early stages of development but here are the main goals:

1) Replace OEM Spare tire with custom designed water tank
2) Install marine pump near in the under carriage
3) Control thermostat/heating from front console
4) Shower in rear

TEST #1

As this will likely be a month or two before I finalize anything I plan to do period updates. For today's test I will be conducting a feasibility test to answer:

1) Test how long does it take to heat the water?
2) Test the pressure on the pump.

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15 Gallons at 78.4F :: 0 minutes


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15 Gallons at 86.5F :: 28 minutes from 0


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15 Gallons at 94.9F :: 1hour 12 from 0

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Pump

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Water pressure

​

Conclusion: The heating element works GREAT and the water pressure is phenomenal. Some observations to note:

- 10 Guage wire gets HOT. Will definatley need lower guage wire
- Heating takes awhile. Will try adding second heating element to bring heating times down
- Water pressure has to be released at 70 - 100% for the pump to work.
- Battery dies within an hour. This setup will need a running engine to work and possibily some preplanning to heat the water while on route to the destination.

Future:
-Design tank with 2 thermal element hookups. Aiming for 20 gallons
-Design mounts for pump and tank
-Integrate water filler and shower hookup lines into Expedition One rear bumper.


More updates to come!
 
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Wiring Round 3

Wiring Round 3

I need to stop this madness.

Just recently I tore out everything - Bussman relay box, all the cool wiring I did, ditched the AOB switches, etc etc.

Here's the parts list for round 3:

8 Circuit SE System w\Touchscreen for Universal Trucks
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/
-4AWG MEGA Eyelets
-Hand Held Hex Crimping Tool
-Waterproof Grommets (13/16", 37/64", 23/32")
-Battery Cable (4AWG, 8AWG)
-Military Battery Terminals
-Pre-Cut MEGA Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing
-250 AMP Junction Studs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MBPA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYK5NC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ9TAN8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEBXRS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001YIPXR2


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In preparation for my fridge, water pump, water heater, air compressor, and other future toys I decided to repurpose the bussman relay box to the rear and use the SPOD for lighting and winch control.

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To get things started I needed to plum some wire through the firewall. I found two locations near the master cylinder. The negative side already had a grommet but the positive side required drilling a new hole. The grommets came from ceautoelectric supply and offers a water tight seal and protects the cables from coming into contact with the firewall and possibly shorting.


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Once through the firewall I routed the 4AWG neg and pos cables along the door/foot area. I also have a few relay control wires as well. Something to note is two sets of 4 AWG is the MAX you can fit here. You can easily fit one 0 AWG wire as well if you decide not to run a dedicated ground.


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Getting the wires to the rear took a bit of time due to the wires fighting against me when I tried to route it over the rear wheel well. Be sure to use some wireloom here on the positive cable as there's quite a bit of sharp edges in the wheel well area. Also, if it's not obvious, you will loose your bottle jack and jack tools doing this mod. For the majority of us it's a non issue as I'm sure these things become useless once we're lifted and have bigger tires.


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Moving onto the front I prepped the SPOD with some Delphi connectors as I wanted a way to easily remove the SPOD in case I needed to access the fuse box it sits on or if I'm in an environment where I believe it'll get wet (water crossing)


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Been asked spod vs switchpro and I gotta say I did it for the screen and the ability to mount it in the cup holder using a 3D printed cylinder.


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Now the biggest headache. Wiring! I made some custom battery cables to send juice to the spod, fuse box, 250 amp circuit breaker. I also had to redo the chassis ground for the battery amp meter that I riveted to the Pelfrey battery cage. I'm not a fan of all the wires but honestly there's just no other way


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Right now I'm working on finalizing a piece to house the battery gauge and spod. Right now I have something finalized in aluminum and seeing if I can live with it. I also got to wire up the fridge, pumps, etc in the rear but that's easy since the hardest part is complete.

Will have more later!
 
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Wow, it's too bad you don't live on the Right Coast ... you and [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] could rub antennae.

:girl:
 
Sequoia NP

I picked up my 4runner toward the end of Feb 2017 and finally had a chance to take it out for a few days in Sequoia NP. First night was spent on a forest road 13S45 and exploring the area. After was mostly hanging out with some friends and hiking. During the trip I found out the roof light bar wasn't really useful in light output compared to the 30" bumper mounted light bar. Also enjoyed my nights in the Eezi Awn RTT. The setup was a breeze when I pulled in at 1am and the mattress pad provided was really supportive. Quite possibly the best sleep I've ever had whilst camping.


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DAMN! That is super clean! I really like what you did with the front end and the Toyota lettering in the grille. Keep up the good work man
 
Thank you everyone for the comments on my electrical work! Honestly I spent way too much time on it and even redone it a few times - hopefully it gives some of you ideas and saves you time when tackling your own.

How do you like the spod ? I keep trying to justify the 750 and I'm getting close

I love it. The touchscreen and switches have been flawless so far. I just recently added the Bluetooth module to control the lights primarily for safety when I'm in my roof top tent (bears, mountain lions). I know the price is steep but considering what they've spent on manufacturing/design/shop upkeep/etc - it's actually very fairly priced for a low volume product. You won't be dissapointed.
 
Onboard Air

ONBOARD AIR

Onboard air is one of the essential tools in overlander's swiss army knife. During any trip we can encounter situations such as flat tires, bent rims, clogged air filters, or some other catastrophic failure requiring the use of tools that can be run on air.

Of course not everything is doom and gloom. Onboard air can be used to fill air mattresses, blow up dolls and even power a Oster blender (1/4" square drive + extension + impact gun) to supply endless margaritas for your lady... or boy :bathbaby: . For the more serious overlander air can power lockers.

Seeing some of the setups here on T4R I figured there's just gotta be another way. Personally I think a air setup in the engine compartment is a terrible idea. Subjecting a ~$500 ARB air compressor to extreme heat, dirt, and moisture is not ideal even though ARB's are built for it.

About a week ago I decided it was time for air and put my trusty BNIB emergency walmart compressor in retirement.

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-CKMTA12-Board-Performance-Compressor/dp/B0050DI9YQ

I decided to go with ARB and paid a little north of $500. While it was not cheap I went with amazon for the ease of returns - I also convinced myself that I could save $$$ by skipping the electric impact wrench as I have quite a few air tools at home that can be repurposed for the 4runner.

In the two days it took to arrive I contemplated where I would mount the bloody thing - Under the driver seat, behind the front bumper, on the cargo tray, underneath the 4runner, etc etc until it dawned on me.

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I'm going to put it in that weird Tetris shaped cubby hole!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...erior-plastic-cover-over-left-rear-wheel.html

Ripping off the interior was simple...ish. The challenge I had was I had to remove the top portion of the rear passenger seat in order to get the trim fully off. Once it was gone I did this...

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Then I did this.


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To me... it's the absolute meant-to-be placement for the ARB and while I totally understand some may think it's heresy to sacrifice such precious cargo space but please hold your thoughts until it's done.


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Time to get to work

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The bracket​

Fabbing the bracket took me a good part of the day - almost 24 hours. The issue was the compressor is so damn heavy so making the template out of cardboard with the compressor attached resulted in measurements that were off... way off Nevertheless on my second design attempt I came up with the bracket. Made of 6061-T6 aluminum and welded extension screw offsets, (each one of a different length due to the X, Y, Z axis placement of the interior 4Runner body panel supports) I was able to get a S-O-L-I-D and perfect fitment.

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Compressor wired into custom power panel and bussman relay box

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The water bottles was to test if I had enough space for a air tank (VIAIR 2.5 gallon). In my opinion a 2 gallon tank would be a better choice as fitting the 2.5 gallon required extending the original bracket for the air compressor. Sadly I don't have any pics of the bracket other than the mounting tab that you'll see on the mid point of the tank at the bottom.

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I put a few quick disconnects that will allow me to use the pump, tank, or any combination of the two. In the tail light space I plan to mount a regulator and pressure gauge.


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Here's the setup in 99% completion. I'm still missing a leader hose, air regulator, and pressure gauge but should have those delivered by the end of the week.

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Finally wrapped everything up today. Added my pressure regulator and did a test run of the compressor + tank to ARB's limit of 150 PSI. Everything went perfect with nothing falling apart or vibrating itself to death. Also took some measurements as found the ARB drew almost 60amps when running.
 
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what gauge wiring did you run up the sides of the windshields? and how many wires were you able to fit?
i have a onx6 40" dual control also, and having a headache thinking how i would ever run this wire to it.

that and i have some other lights i'll need to wire up. Thanks!
 

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