Cam and crank seals when replacing timing belt
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s20004runner
New member
just did my timing belt and misc parts after doing a lot of research and I was also afraid of getting stuck on the seal removal.
I did the drill -> wood screw (wide thread, shorter thread was harder to penetrate and grab) -> pull method that I read somewhere and worked perfectly for both seals.
The removal and insert in just few mins and go pick up a small pvc w/ matching diameter to help pushing them in.
I did the drill -> wood screw (wide thread, shorter thread was harder to penetrate and grab) -> pull method that I read somewhere and worked perfectly for both seals.
The removal and insert in just few mins and go pick up a small pvc w/ matching diameter to help pushing them in.
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808T4R
New member
So you drilled a screw into the seal and pulled it out? Then lubed up the new seal and pushed the new seal in, used a socket or something to push it in evenly? You did that to both the CAM and CRANK shaft seals?
s20004runner
New member
yes, just did it this past weekend. I drilled a small pilot hole first before screwing in a screw.
LittleCaesar
New member
I have used a drill and screw method before but found using this tool to be much easier and quicker:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-S...=1425048233&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller
Though I did not use it to remove the cam seals since my dealer did not stock them, the crank took about 20 seconds to take out:
Then after freezing the seal for an hour and putting some grease in the inner lip I tapped the new one in with a 5oz tack hammer.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-S...=1425048233&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller
Though I did not use it to remove the cam seals since my dealer did not stock them, the crank took about 20 seconds to take out:
Then after freezing the seal for an hour and putting some grease in the inner lip I tapped the new one in with a 5oz tack hammer.
macshemi57
New member
Yeah I have cam and crank seals brand new sitting in my garage, if you need them. When I got in there mine weren't leaking at all, so I avoided that headache. If there good don't mess with theM. If there leaking then you can replace them. The crank one is the easiest.
s20004runner
New member
I also looked to that same tool but couldn't get it delivered fast enough to when I wanted to do the job. Glad to know it worked.
nevada
Senior Member
agreed.
Do-boy
New member
i don't agree with this. The seals are cheap and require the timing belt to be taken off. Why not do them at the same time? It's and extra what, 20-30min to do them if you're taking your sweet time. There's a good chance they'll start leaking before you need a new timing belt.
I use a pointed 90deg and carefully stab the seal, then pull it out. Tap new one in with oil and a big socket.
I use a pointed 90deg and carefully stab the seal, then pull it out. Tap new one in with oil and a big socket.
LittleCaesar
New member
No..................
azcat90
New member
You put seals in the freezer? Should I just keep them in there until I'm ready to install or is there a max freeze time?
By the way, Lil Caeser's tool works - this one does not: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25014
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I have used a drill and screw method before but found using this tool to be much easier and quicker:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-S...=1425048233&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller
Though I did not use it to remove the cam seals since my dealer did not stock them, the crank took about 20 seconds to take out:
Then after freezing the seal for an hour and putting some grease in the inner lip I tapped the new one in with a 5oz tack hammer.
this one I have also, have used it on BMW, Volvo, Toyota corolla...works great
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
When putting the new seals in just go real slow, making sure it goes in evenly and all the way. Don't assume that because your using a large socket or piece of PVC, that it wont get cocked, especially when you're first driving it in.
