Cam chain off?

Mantree

Mantree

New member
So my truck has been running like crap for months now and I've been chasing my tail trying to figure it out. I have changed out my tps that was bad and am pulling vacuum for the fpr straight off the manifold. So now I must ask what are the symptems of a cam chain that has hopped a tooth

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Mantree said:
So my truck has been running like crap for months now and I've been chasing my tail trying to figure it out. I have changed out my tps that was bad and am pulling vacuum for the fpr straight off the manifold. So now I must ask what are the symptems of a cam chain that has hopped a tooth

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Your timing would be off. Do you have access to a timing gun?
 
My timing was between 5 and 10 deg off not sure exactly as it was off is such a manner that I couldn't read it on the timing marks

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If the timing chain had skipped you probably wouldn't have enough adjustment at the dizzy to bring it back into spec. If your timing is between 5 and 10 btdc with the diag port jumped, then you're good, whether it jumped or not.

But if you can't get your timing into that range then something is definitely wrong, and you probably ought to take off the timing cover and install a fresh timing set. If your chain is jumping then it's stretched far enough that the tensioner can't compensate. That means it'll probably skip again, and it also means it's killing (or already killed) the timing chain guide, and next it will wear a hole in the timing cover and then bad timing will be the least of your worries.
 
What about a streched chain. Autozone has the timing chanel set for a 22re for about $50

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Mantree said:
What about a streched chain. Autozone has the timing chanel set for a 22re for about $50

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Do NOT waste your money on that crap!

When it comes to timing you absolutely need to spend the money to get the kit with heavy duty steel guides.
There are some parts that you replace with cheap stuff but this is not one of those parts.

As for timing jump one tooth jumped can be brought back to 0 with the dizzy. So you would have to be out of whack at least two teeth before you would not be able to run with dizzy adjustment.
 
Just adding to BadV's post, if it is one tooth off, you'll be timing with the distributor almost at the end of it adjustment range, so if you're all the way at the end of the slot on the dizzy, it could be that.

And don't do this to make it work!:

DSC_2004.jpg
 
I disused to call a buddy who use to be a toyota mechanic because I have bought parts off him befor that he has haging around from when he owned a 22re 4runner (still owns the 4runner but it now has a OM617) and sure enough he had a timing set and all the gaskets in his garage $50 and he is giving me some new gas shocks as well since they are to short with his lift kit. Now I just need to make the drive up to his place, probably take the bike up when it stops snowing since the truck it having troble with hills right now.
Ps his kit has steel guides not the plastic ones

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Mantree said:
I disused to call a buddy who use to be a toyota mechanic because I have bought parts off him befor that he has haging around from when he owned a 22re 4runner (still owns the 4runner but it now has a OM617) and sure enough he had a timing set and all the gaskets in his garage $50 and he is giving me some new gas shocks as well since they are to short with his lift kit. Now I just need to make the drive up to his place, probably take the bike up when it stops snowing since the truck it having troble with hills right now.
Ps his kit has steel guides not the plastic ones

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As long as they are heavy duty steel guides and not just the regular steel guides you will be good I can't stress enough how important having those heavy duty guides is to a daily driver or off-road Rig.
 
So I pulled the valve cover and found this big happy red gear
58e9a480a09b3ea028cdfac4cf45340d.jpg

It said that it's a preformance part and it seams to be ajustable but in not sure how it should be set

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Mantree said:
So my truck has been running like crap for months now and I've been chasing my tail trying to figure it out. I have changed out my tps that was bad and am pulling vacuum for the fpr straight off the manifold. So now I must ask what are the symptems of a cam chain that has hopped a tooth

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depends on which direction it was off. one way, it would be a dog, and no power down low.
the other way, it would probably ping, and have a high idle.

typically they don't run "crappy" necessarily. such as a bad misfire or whatever.
 
So turns out that at some point in the past someone over tourqed the top bolt on the oil pump and stripped it out then packed it with epoxy. I pulled the epoxy plug out when I hit about 8lb when specs were for 18lb. Looks like my 2 options are eather pull the cover and drill it out and tap it for a 10mm bolt or replace the whole cover. Then I am going to strip down the vac lines to see if I can find my issue there

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6e44a860f2d0008b8f1f9c093cb80763.jpg

So started reasimbleing the engine today and made alot of progress but I have a bracket that I can't figure out where it goes. It's from the drivers side of the engine but I don't know where. Any help?

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Thanks now I can get that back on. Dose anyone know that each of the vacume switching solinoid on the top of the valve cover do I have already removed the fpr one as it was bad so I just patched it straight to the manifold but I would like to get rid of as much as I can or at least relocate them to a more conviniant location

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Got the truck back together and running today. I drove it in to town and filled up. About 3 miles later it started to stumble and misfire. No idea what Happened any ideas?

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Mantree said:
Got the truck back together and running today. I drove it in to town and filled up. About 3 miles later it started to stumble and misfire. No idea what Happened any ideas?

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Forgot to mention that the idle is rock steady now

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How's the temp? Any codes? You pull the battery cable when you worked on the engine? If not, did you reset the ecu afterwards?

May have an air pocket in the engine causing it to overheat, which would cause the stumbling and misfires. Could also be the distributor not locked down, changing the timing.

There's a ton of other things that could cause this too, including vacuum leaks or sensor(s) not plugged all the way in. Check codes, check plugs to see if its a lean or rich condition, check timing again, look over everything you pulled/disconnected/touched.
 
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