Cam chain off?

I reworked the vacume lines. Temp is fine, oil pressure is good I burped the coolant system. Battery was disconnected. I have no o2 sensor but that's the only code. It was low on power but running fine through the test drive and then about 6 miles on my way home with a stop at the gas station. It is stumbling and missing like it's a fuel isue. There was one ground that was kind of suspect but I let it go and put it back on because I didn't have parts to fix it, it was the ground that bolts to the power stearing pump

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Ummm, last time I tried to run my truck without an o2 sensor, it ran like crap!

There's some really simple sensor kits you can use, all you need to do is drill a hole, then clamp the sensor into the hole. Here's what I'm talking about:

AEM sensor mount

I'm sure there's some cheaper ones out there, just gotta search around for 'em, make sure its for the diameter of your exhaust pipe, then drill, mount and screw a sensor in. IIRC, the bosch o2 sensors are screw-type units that are screwed into the two-hole toyota-type plate, the Densos I have is not.

Reset your ecu then take it for another drive. See if the same thing happens after a few minutes of driving. If you can continually reset the ecu and have the vehicle run correctly for a few minutes each time, then I'd say the ecu is trying to adjust for an extremely lean system, seeing that there's no data coming from the missing o2 sensor! The o2 sensor is probably the most important sensor of the ecu when its trying to determine the proper a/f ratio
for your engine.
 
I need to have the vat reinstalled and was hoping to get it done before I put my new o2 sensor in since the sensor is about 1 inch from where I had to cut the exhaust when the cat failed

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I'm fairly certain that installing the o2 sensor will clear up your issue, but if you wanna try this other "trick", when the afm is wide open and you're at full throttle, the ecu runs in an open loop (or is it closed loop, don't recall the term right now) and bypasses the o2 sensor as well as a few others, maybe even all of them. If it runs without missing while at full throttle, you can pretty much figure that its the o2 sensor.
 
Ok so I have tomorrow off so I will head out to my perents house (I don't have a garage) and see what I can find. I'll install a straight pipe untell I can get the cat reinstalled and hook up the new o2 sensor and check all my grounds I'm also wondering if maby I got the distributer wet. That would be ideal since I had some overflow when refilling the radiator after re installing

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I need to have the vat reinstalled and was hoping to get it done before I put my new o2 sensor in since the sensor is about 1 inch from where I had to cut the exhaust when the cat failed

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22re correct?
you don't need a cat for it to run correctly. but you will need the o2 sensor.

what year are you dealing with here? all the 22re's ive seen have the o2 in the manifold, up close by the engine. nowhere near the cat.
 
Unless he has a header. The older thorleys had two models, one with a bung and one without. S&S didn't have a bung at all on theirs, and I've seen a few others without the o2 bung too.

Its super-easy now though with that AEM bracket to just add one in anywhere you like, but for proper readings, it should be relatively close to the engine. I believe my wideband required it to be within 24" of the nearest exhaust port, and my thorley tri-Y header has it about 18" down from the #4 cylinder port.

Get the 40 dollar kit, drill a hole, clamp the bracket on, screw the o2 sensor into bracket, plug o2 in and you're done! Can't be more than a half-hour's worth of work if you have everything ready to go! I think the hardest thing will be drilling the hole in a good spot that's horizontal, or even vertical if its on the top of the exhaust, but most folks don't have an angle drill to easily drill this hole.
 
Its a 90 22re The exhaust was someone done by a shop at some point and the o2 sensor is about 4 inches from the cat I pluged it back in and found the real cause of my problem
30eb072f45d26e98db8e841176be63d8.jpg

The wire for no 2 is done for and no 1 was loose at the dist
71a0d8b31bbb041a0f2cab122c015d8d.jpg

I also checked the ground wire for the head to find it was almost gone


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Well crappy news I have devolved a oil leak where the head and the timing cover meet. I guess it's time to do a head gasket in the next few weeks

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Well crappy news I have devolved a oil leak where the head and the timing cover meet. I guess it's time to do a head gasket in the next few weeks

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Easier to pull the timing cover and seal it from that side. If your compression is good there's no need to pull the head.

I'm on my phone and don't want to scroll back, didn't you do the timing set on this earlier? Did you use FIPG at the timing cover where it meets the bottom of the head? Did you remember to torque the hidden bolt under the timing sprocket?
 
Easier to pull the timing cover and seal it from that side. If your compression is good there's no need to pull the head.

I'm on my phone and don't want to scroll back, didn't you do the timing set on this earlier? Did you use FIPG at the timing cover where it meets the bottom of the head? Did you remember to torque the hidden bolt under the timing sprocket?
I did all the above, I need to check compression but I had someone else change the plugs last year when I had a busted up hand and now I can't get plug 2 out so less than happy about that. The tdi swap is sounding better and better everyday

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So I tracked the leak up a bit more than I origanly thought it was coming from... that rubber plug at the front of the valve cover was leaking and a bit around the valve cover where I reused the old gasket fixed that just befor leaving for denver so I will check to see if that fixed it when I get back to fortcollins

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