Cam/Valve Damage 00 4R

Owenjam

New member
Long story short, family member has a 2000 4 runner lmtd 4x4 that sat undriven for 4 years. Only has 46K miles. I have tried to buy the truck for years and finally he let me pick it up to see if it would run or not, (pics to follow soon). Covered in grime, put a new battery in it and it did fire up, but had had a major dead miss. Got the valve covers and intake off, had 4 stuck valves. All came loose, but on driver side bank, one of the actual valve lash shims has broken off, valve itself is not compromised. Its a round flat metal cap on top of valve where it meets the over head cam lobe. Only found one small broken part on top of the head, rest is floating around in motor somewhere. put a scar on cam lobe and on the head near that area, but should not effect the performance if cap is replace and scars sanded.

Has anyone had one of these shims break????


Engine has good compression across all cylinders except this one. My mechanic thinks remove cam, sand down areas with damage and replace the valve shim. Any thoughts? I am thinking go ahead and replace cam for sure, but trying to avoid pulling the head,
Where are the internal engine gurus?
 

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Wow, thats a shame,

theres obviously a reason that one sat like it did for so many years, they obviously did something that killed it.

46k?? I would swoop that thing up!!

I dont know if just replacing the cam is enough, Ill defer to internal engine guys, but In my opinion, it would be worth whatever it cost to do the whole cylinder head "IF" I had too, on a 2000 limited with only 46k...
 
Long story short, family member has a 2000 4 runner lmtd 4x4 that sat undriven for 4 years. Only has 46K miles. I have tried to buy the truck for years and finally he let me pick it up to see if it would run or not, (pics to follow soon). Covered in grime, put a new battery in it and it did fire up, but had had a major dead miss. Got the valve covers and intake off, had 4 stuck valves. All came loose, but on driver side bank, one of the actual valve lash shims has broken off, valve itself is not compromised. Its a round flat metal cap on top of valve where it meets the over head cam lobe. Only found one small broken part on top of the head, rest is floating around in motor somewhere. put a scar on cam lobe and on the head near that area, but should not effect the performance if cap is replace and scars sanded.

Has anyone had one of these shims break????


Engine has good compression across all cylinders except this one. My mechanic thinks remove cam, sand down areas with damage and replace the valve shim. Any thoughts? I am thinking go ahead and replace cam for sure, but trying to avoid pulling the head,
Where are the internal engine gurus?



Any other history on this engine? That engine just doesnt f*ck up cams and valves by itself. Especially if it has 46k on it.
there is something more to it than just that. I personally havent seen a yota engine do that. Unless the cams were matched with the wrong sized shims and the cam caps werent tightened down to the correct Ft lbs.
 
History

Heres the long story. He bought the truck new in 2000, probably drove it everyday for less than 2-3 years hence the 46K miles, met a girl, and they moved in together. One day he hit a curb and cracked a rim, had it towed behind the girls apt and left it there, started using her car. The "girl" is my wifes cousin. So the owner and I became friends and one day asked if I could check out his truck to see if it could be fixed, I said sure. Had it towed to my car lot (this was 4 years ago) and got to work, new battery, one new rim, 4 new tires, windshield, oil change etc..... I was shocked when I saw the miles even back then. I asked if he wanted to sell it, he said maybe, but the title was lost. I told him to come by lot and I do the replacement title form and I would try and sell it. (wanting to buy it myself the whole time). I drove the truck for 6-8 months waiting on him to do paperwork, I had the truck back to showroom condition, several coats of wax etc...... When he finally did come to sign title application, he had decided he wanted to keep it, I said fine, he paid for the repairs and took truck. Since that day 4 years ago ths month, he put 40 miles on it and parked it again, outside as you can see, in driveway. Now he wants it gone for good, but now this happens. So the gremlin in the machine is lack of use only.
 
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I'm thinking your best bet is to get another head from a junkyard. Be sure to replace the timing belt and water pump while you're at it.
 
Headway

Shim is ordered from dealer, $8.80 and includeds overnight shipping. The valve moves freely in the head and sleeve will trun by hand. Plan now is to roll the dice since the truck probably has more issues that need to be dealt with. We have sanded down the edge of the cam lobe and area at lip of valve galley. Going to replace the shim and install orginal cam as to not upset the other valve clearances and let it roll. If the truck runs and checks out in all other areas fine. But, if I go ahead and do the major top end overhaul and have other major issues that sux. Need to drive this thing before sinking any big money into it. All but one small part of broken valve shim is accounted for, probably down in the pan. I also misread the miles when I picked it up, ONLY 43K MILES!!!!!
 

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The resurrection continues, should have it bolted up and running by Tues afternoon as long as shim comes in from dealer, and will report back. thanks again for input.
 
ITS ALIVE!!!!! Running and test driving for 3 hours now, ran fuel system clean, but still has a pesky miss on Cyl#6, (not the cyl with damage valve shim). Thinking along the lines of clogged injector at this point. Still has 1/2 tank of old gas mixed with 1/2 tank fresh and seafoam. will continue the driving and post picstures to show how bad the paint is under the grime.



Total expense thus far: $886.49
 
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ITS ALIVE!!!!! Running and test driving for 3 hours now, ran fuel system clean, but still has a pesky miss on Cyl#6, (not the cyl with damage valve shim). Thinking along the lines of clogged injector at this point. Still has 1/2 tank of old gas mixed with 1/2 tank fresh and seafoam. will continue the driving and post picstures to show how bad the paint is under the grime.

Sounds good brother! post up some clean pics
 
Clogged Injectors?

The miss is localized on cyl 2-4-6, ran compression test and each one has 175 PSI. Thoughts now are bad or clogged injectors. Most of the old gas has been burned out at this point along with 2 bottles of seafoam in the tank. Any ideas on clearing injectors before I pull the intake, again, and start replacing them?
 
The miss is localized on cyl 2-4-6, ran compression test and each one has 175 PSI. Thoughts now are bad or clogged injectors. Most of the old gas has been burned out at this point along with 2 bottles of seafoam in the tank. Any ideas on clearing injectors before I pull the intake, again, and start replacing them?

Goto Toyota and grab some BG44 fuel additive
 
The miss is localized on cyl 2-4-6, ran compression test and each one has 175 PSI. Thoughts now are bad or clogged injectors. Most of the old gas has been burned out at this point along with 2 bottles of seafoam in the tank. Any ideas on clearing injectors before I pull the intake, again, and start replacing them?
What do the plugs look like on 2-4-6? Might be a sick coil or a vacuum leak.
 
It wouldn't hurt, and actually would be a great investment if you pull all your injectors and have them serviced. This ensures all of them flow according to spec and you get the smooth idle and maximum fuel economy. I recently did this at a diesel shop on my 02 4Runner after 250,000+ miles and they were 40% clogged even though the 4Runner itself ran smooth as silk. After the FI clean, the truck has big gains in power I didn't notice I lost over time and it really idles smooth. Ofcourse with my led foot, I didn't really notice the mpg increase because I don't monitor it.
 
I ran one can of seafoam through vaccum line off intake, no change. Express oil did a fuel system clean as well, you could eat off the throttle plate. Have run 2 cans of seafoam in tank. Plugs look good out 2-4-6 with mild soot. Shows system too lean and mis fire 2-4-6. No vaccum leak. I will order some BG44 from dealer today. Thinking about running 1/2 gallon of lucas fuel treatment at idle for an hour, then top off tank. If it comes down too it, new/rebuilt injectors. Fuel must have varnished inside injectors sitting that long.
 
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Removed fuel rail cross over pipe and its clean as a whistle inside, flushed rails, replaced, and same results. Looks like the intake is coming back off:cry2:
 
If the old fuel clogged those 3 injectors, why would the other 3 not be as bad? How old was the gas that was sitting in there - did it turn to varnish? It sounds like it may be more of a timing problem since the entire bank on the driver side is missing and the other bank seems to be ok.
 

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