Cannot keep Transfer Case Bolt Tight
- Thread starter c0mmon
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KidVermicious
New member
Sounds like it's stripped out. Easy to do to that aluminum case, always snug those with a torque wrench to be sure they aren't overtight.
If you need the truck back right now, clean the bolt and bolt hole very well and use a little permatex thread sealer. Thread the bolt in there until just before it hits that threshold and say five hail marys, it might last a little bit and give you time to consider your options.
Those options, in order of decreasing good-idea-ness:
If you need the truck back right now, clean the bolt and bolt hole very well and use a little permatex thread sealer. Thread the bolt in there until just before it hits that threshold and say five hail marys, it might last a little bit and give you time to consider your options.
Those options, in order of decreasing good-idea-ness:
- Repair the existing threads, using a helicoil/timecert or drilling and tapping a hole for a larger bolt. These kits aren't cheap, but they're cheaper than a new transfer case. Call around and you'll probably find a shop that has one and they'll likely only bill you an hour or less, or just buy the kit and do it yourself.
- Drill/file out the existing hole until the drain bolt just slips in. JBWeld a nut the same size as the drain bolt over the hole.
- Buy a wrecked tcase and slap it on, or take yours apart and put it back together with the drain bolt section from the donor case.
- Plug it completely and just drop the tcase when you need to change the fluid. This is not as stupid as it sounds - if you're not in water a lot you don't need to change it frequently, once every several years at the worst.
- Plug it completely, drill a new hole and tap it for NPT, and thread in a ball valve so you don't ever need to worry about that silly drain bolt again. This IS as stupid as it sounds, don't do it.
New 18mm x 1 5 Metric Taper and Plug Tap M18 x 1 5mm Pitch | eBay
Thank you for the advice, for cost reasons. What about some thing similar to this?
Thank you for the advice, for cost reasons. What about some thing similar to this?
KidVermicious
New member
Sure, drilling it out and tapping new threads is easily done. If memory serves, the stock bolt is an M10x1.50. You'd want one size up which would be an M12x1.50, and the right size drill bit. Use a bunch of grease, drill very slow, and back out frequently. You don't want to push any shavings up into the case. Ditto when you're tapping. My only concern would be if there's enough material in the wall of the case to support the slightly larger size - if it's flared just enough to provide enough thread for the M10, it may not be thick enough to support the diameter of the M12 without enough thread? But I don't know, I've never seen the inside of your style transfer case. Maybe somebody else can chime in on that one.
Your local parts counter should be able to source you a flanged M12x1.5 drain bolt and crush washer from some other rig. Check the FSM, torque is something like 60-odd inch/pounds - not very damned much at all.
TheDurk
Elite Member
You know, I never knew this. It's obvious when you think about it, but I've always picked my drill bits by eyeballing it.
Now I know why the beautiful drill bit set I picked up in Germany had funky sizes like 10,5 mm in it.
Thanks for the tip.
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pluton
Senior Member
Best skip this one as well.
So it would be alot more involved then jut sending the tap through it? The threads for the majority seem in good shape seems to be a minor snafu near the end
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ABN-14MM-Cy...ethread-Kit-/351385590775?hash=item51d0369bf7
What about something like that? I would really hate to put 100 dollars into a bolt
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KidVermicious
New member
You could try that. I don't think it'll work. That threshold of resistance you feel when you spin the bolt is the bolt threads coming up snug against what's left of the hole threads and then pulling through them. Chasing the hole threads with a tap might raise a little bit of thread, but I'm skeptical that it'd be enough to provide the necessary clamping force. But you can certainly give it a shot, if it doesn't work you're only out the cost of the tap.
I've never used anything like that kit you linked. Apart from being the wrong size it looks like you're intended to drill and tap at the same time with that hand reamer, I don't know how much I like that, you'd want to be VERY careful that you didn't end up with a crooked hole. Whatever you end up doing, if your hole/threads are not perpendicular to the outside surface of the tcase you won't get a good seal with your drain hole. The crush washer can make up for a little bit of tolerance, but not much. If cost is really a factor, I think this would work better for only a little more money: http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546...F8&qid=1441549069&sr=8-6&keywords=m10x1.5+tap. The big factor there would be if the coil is too much deeper than the case, but you could always trim it.
Don't think of it as spending money on a bolt. Think of it as spending money on torque education, and saving money on a new transfer case.
KidVermicious
New member
One more option - if you're comfortable dropping the transfer case, yank it out and take it to a machine shop and ask them to fix it. I bet the guy down the street from me would probably charge about $20 to repair the hole or drill and tap it for a larger bolt.