Cannot slide Timing belt back on

[Hippo393]

Status post-head gasket blow in '23,
Replaced with resurfaced heads (v6) and gasket set.
Somehow easily slid off timing belt in the beginning, but now have no idea how to simply slide it back on. I have removed the timing tensioner, thinking that was the problem. No, it's something else, and I cannot figure it out. The timing belt is too tight to simply replace it through the cams and middle-pully.
Thoughts?
Gah! trying to attach a photo of current sitch, but not sure how. Photo would help...I'm trying!
Dang, this Toyota website will only attach an image from something other than email. Since I have no URL-ability, how to attach a picture??

https://apis.mail.yahoo.com/ws/v3/m...s/@.id==2/thumbnail?appid=YMailNovationLaunch

 

[2TH4IST]

New timing belts are tight. Best solution is to unthread the idle pulley 3-4 threads before it falls off. Completely loosen or remove the hydraulic tensioner. Get the cams aligned with marks, align the crank too. Start with the pass side cam, get the belt on fully and use a binder clip to hold the belt on. Go under the idler (leaving the idler loose will give the belt a tiny bit more play). Get the drivers side cam, if you can't get belt on with out any tension, roll the drivers cam back until it grabs the belt, then roll it forward. Use another binder clip to hold the belt on. You want full tension from cam to cam.

Get the belt 1/2 to 1/4 of the way on the water pump. Next go to the crank. Just like the drivers cam, if you can't get it on and the belt not be tight, rotate the crank until it grabs and slide/work belt on 1/2 to 1/4 way on. Do not use a hammer as it will damage the belt. By this point the drivers side or non tensioned side should be tight as can be.

That should allow you to get the belt on the tensioner pulley, once done, walk the belt on all the way. Tighten up everything and reinstall the hydraulic tensioner. Once everything is good to go, pull the pin and rotate the engine a few times and double check the timing marks.

I've had a 5vz timing belt fight me 3 hours before even with all the secrets /tricks I know.

As for attaching pics, when you create a thread go to the bottom and click manage attachments, they usually have to be resized, click choose file, then click upload. If all goes well it will list it in the bottom. And then close the window.

 

[FD7683]

Loosen tensioner bolts until slack is there then install belt. I remember the inner tensioner bolt being a real PITA good luck!

 

[mtbtim]

You should have no problem getting the timing belt properly lined up on both cam pulleys. There can be a struggle getting the belt onto the crankshaft timing gear, because that's usually the last spot I get the belt onto but there's a trick to make it easier.

This is how I do it. First get the belt lined up with the right cam (passenger side). Then wrap the belt under the upper idler pulley and onto the left cam (driver side). Next wrap it around the water pump pulley. Here's where the trick comes in. Get onto the left cam pulley bolt with a wrench and apply force clockwise which will pull any slack out between the upper idler pulley and the right cam pulley. This will make it easier for you to line up the "CR" line on the belt with the timing dot on the front face of the crankshaft timing gear. If it's still hard to get the "CR" line lined up the crankshaft timing gear timing dot, you can turn the cam pulleys slightly clockwise off TDC and/or turn the crankshaft slightly counter clockwise to bring the timing dot closer. You get the belt partially onto the crankshaft timing gear, wrap it around the final idler pulley, which is the tensioner pulley, and then shimmy the belt fully onto the timing gear and tensioner pulley. After that, you're good to go to get the tensioner installed or fully tightened in place if you just backed off the bolts which is what I like to do.

After that, give the engine two full revolutions of the crankshaft to confirm all 3 timing marks line up. They can seem slightly off, like a half a tooth, and that's because the timing belt tensioner isn't putting full force against the belt with the pin not pulled. Once you pull the pin, and do two more full revolutions of the engine, all three timing marks should be dead on. If you're off by a tooth, you did it wrong and you need to pull the belt off and start over.

I hope this helps. It is possible the belt you got isn't correct. Not all timing belt kits are created equal. Did you get an OEM belt? Aftermarket are usually ok, but it is a possibility it's just an issue with the belt being made wrong.

 

[Hippo393]

Good tricks, thank you all!
For clarity, It is an OEM belt that I had replaced a few years ago. However this was not a full tear-down timing belt job. I only removed the top half of the engine, and am re-using the existing belt. I slid the belt off the cams & idler pulley and clamped it together to keep it the same relative to its position around the crank (not visible).

A you-tube video of this identical head gasket job shows the guy simply sliding the belt back on. This is NOT the case with me, lol. I will try your recommendations and report back. Thank you!

-Alan

 

[brillo_76]

OP, you are going to have to pull the crankshaft pulley and that lower timing cover off.. Put the camshafts where they are supposed to be. No wonder you cant get it on. It all needs to be opened up and easy to get too. Thanks for the photo. Explains the situation more so that the members can assist.

 

[Hippo393]

Well I was trying/hoping to not have to pull the crankshaft pulley & lower timing cover. The YT video made that looks so easy without having to do all that.
Is there literally no other way to do slide the upper timing belt onto the crankshafts? Engine is at TDC.

I'm about to waltz into the parts dept of the local dealership to ask if an OG there can come to the house to slide it back on. Anyone ever do something like that?

In the meantime, I still need to get out there to attempt those wise tricks. Thanks all!
-Alan

 

[brillo_76]

Well I was trying/hoping to not have to pull the crankshaft pulley & lower timing cover. The YT video made that looks so easy without having to do all that.
Is there literally no other way to do slide the upper timing belt onto the crankshafts? Engine is at TDC.

I'm about to waltz into the parts dept of the local dealership to ask if an OG there can come to the house to slide it back on. Anyone ever do something like that?

In the meantime, I still need to get out there to attempt those wise tricks. Thanks all!
-Alan

Nope.. You need to get all 3 points on the proper points and you have to slide the timing belt unto the bottom gear. I believe all 5VZ-FE videos out there show that all timing covers must come off. There is no other way to put the belt on. And you also have to reset the timing belt tensioner I dont think you can get the bolts back in if that is not reset and pinned in the lock position either. If its even off a tooth the engines run like crap. :-(

 

[mtbtim]

Well I was trying/hoping to not have to pull the crankshaft pulley & lower timing cover. The YT video made that looks so easy without having to do all that.
Is there literally no other way to do slide the upper timing belt onto the crankshafts? Engine is at TDC.

I'm about to waltz into the parts dept of the local dealership to ask if an OG there can come to the house to slide it back on. Anyone ever do something like that?

In the meantime, I still need to get out there to attempt those wise tricks. Thanks all!
-Alan

I know what video series you followed. It was the "Worse than Chiggers" Head Replacement series. That guy did a great job, but I do have to say our series is more informative.

Since you seem resistant to removing the crank pulley, this is what I suggest you do. Remove the upper idler pulley that sits between the two camshaft pulleys and get the belt off both camshaft pulleys. Get both camshaft pulleys lined up with their respective timing marks on the cover behind them. Next get the crank pulley timing notch lined up with the "0" on the plastic timing cover. While doing that, hold tension on the loose belt while turning the crankshaft and make sure the belt is turning with the crankshaft to confirm teeth engagement. Once the crankshaft timing notch is lined up, and with tension being held on the belt, place the belt onto each camshaft pulley. **Note** you are not worrying about the timing marks on the belt. All you're worried about is keep the belt nice and snug around each pulley leaving no slack. Now you push your upper idler pulley down against the belt between the two camshaft pulleys and towards the hole it bolts to. Line up the holes and get the bolt started. You'll probably have to push pretty hard and be careful not to cross-thread the bolt. If you kept good tension throughout the process, there should be no noticeable slack between any of the points. If everything looks good, tighten the upper idler pulley to spec, do two revolutions of the crankshaft and confirm all 3 timing marks still line up. If they don't, you have to start all over again. Without the timing belt tensioner installed, it's normal for the timing marks to be off slightly, like a half tooth, maybe as much as one tooth since the belt is old and stretched out a bit. Once you install the timing belt tensioner and pull the pin, all three timing marks should be dead on if the tensioner is doing its job properly.

If you struggle getting it timed right, I suggest you abandon your resistance to removing the crankshaft pulley, get it off and make your life easier. With the crankshaft pulley out of the way, now you can use the 3 timing lines on the belt to help you get it installed correctly.

Good luck getting a mechanic to come over to your house, but maybe you'll find a nice guy to help you out. The first thing he'll probably ask is why didn't you remove the crank pulley? You should have used my series to get the job done because you currently wouldn't be in this situation. But, I'm guessing you didn't want to replace the timing belt components like we did in our series.

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[Hippo393]

I got it on! Re-read all your posts, and re-watched that Better than Chiggers video and it went on somewhat easily, installed the tensioner, pulled the pin, and rotated the crankshft 2 full revolutions, and it is dead-on.

You guys are the best. It only took me a year and a half of being stuck on that timing belt step for me to ask for help....sheesh! Not making excuses, but I had brain tumor surgery in September, and I (we) have noticed some lingering cognition issues.

Thanks gang!!
-Alan

 

[2TH4IST]

Alan, glad you got it back on and it lines up perfectly. We are all very happy to have helped!

 

[brillo_76]

Glad its fixed..