Cargo Area 12V

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Has anyone modified the rear cargo area 12V outlet to be hot all the time yet?

Thanks

You are better off running a new one as stock wiring is way too thin. The answer is yes. Easier to run a new line to a bussman, blue sea or like aux fuse box that is wired to always have hot circuits. That and a dual battery system and you are off to the races.
 
Not really:

Blue Sea ST Fuse Block $46.95 list, cheaper on the 'net
Blue Sea 12V socket, $10.98 list
15 ft of 10-12 gauge wire ($3???)
8 gauge battery wire to connect the fuse block to the battery ($5??) from AutoZone

about 2 hrs of your time, including fabricating a metal shelf for the engine bay to mount the fuse block.

Probably doable for under $40.

I did mine (mounted on the left side) about a year ago, when I bought my truck fridge. Just don't remember all that I paid for the hardware.
Will try to attach photos later.
 
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Has anyone modified the rear cargo area 12V outlet to be hot all the time yet?

Thanks

Depending what you want it for. If you need a huge current draw out of the outlet, the original pre-wired outlet may not work for you. And you will have to run your own wires.

But if you just want it HOT always for some low current application, here it is (cost <$5):

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/187467-jicko-build-thread-2.html#post1950091

Or the even simplier:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/187467-jicko-build-thread-3.html#post1957923
 
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Not really:

Blue Sea ST Fuse Block $46.95 list, cheaper on the 'net
Blue Sea 12V socket, $10.98 list
15 ft of 10-12 gauge wire ($3???)
8 gauge battery wire to connect the fuse block to the battery ($5??) from AutoZone

about 2 hrs of your time, including fabricating a metal shelf for the engine bay to mount the fuse block.

Probably doable for under $40.

I did mine (mounted on the left side) about a year ago, when I bought my truck fridge. Just don't remember all that I paid for the hardware.
Will try to attach photos later.

Is it possible to see those installation photos?
 
I just got done doing something like this today. FYI - I'm no expert/still learning so best do the research to fit your needs.

I ran a 4 gauge wire with a MRBF from the battery to the rear. Took out the spare tire tools and drilled two holes to mount a Fuse Block, as I plan on running more accessories from the rear. Cut out an opening for the BelowDeck Panel and wired it up to the fuse block. I'm planning on installing:
a) Battery Switch so I can turn off all power to accessories if needed
b) Solar Charge Controller to top off the battery when not in use


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Here's mine. I ran two pair of wires to each side of back and others to front for various things now and in future.

I kept breaker and fuse block all under the hood with room for expansion in future if necessary. I ran all wires (12g) through new hole in fire wall on passenger side and ran wires for back down passenger side to rear and others to dash area. I now have hot 12v charging ports (USB & sockets) in front and back of vehicle.

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Just finished this up this weekend. Gonna need to wire it all sometime this week. Currently have 4 gauge ran down the passenger side into that cubby. Then it goes to an anderson plug that connects to the panel. Getting a dual battery setup done on the 21-22nd.
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[MENTION=65647]Volley[/MENTION] if you just want an outlet you don't need to do all of this fancy distribution panel or fuse block stuff, you can just run a wire direct to the back and connect it straight to the power outlet.

ARB even makes a kit https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900027-Arb-Fridge-Wiring/dp/B0742LV4JW

and there are countless other similar kits online, just make sure the wire is large enough for your load and you'll need at least 20' to get to the back.

(it will cost less to go to the hardware or automotive store and get materials yourself)
 

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