CAT not ready for echeck Help!

[melpatton]

Hi, this is my first post, so bear with me.

I have a 99 v6 3.4 non cali automatic. I failed my echeck because my check engine light was on and I was pulling a code for a potential bad downstream o2 Sensor (bank 1 sensor 2 I believe). We replaced the o2 sensor and unplugged the battery to hard reset the computer. The CEL has stayed off. I have driven the car for about a week and have put almost 300 miles on the car with both highway and city driving.
At the e check station, they say that the car still is not ready, and specify the cat as being the code that isn't ready.
Any suggestions? I did one drive cycle, but it was difficult to find a place to drive 35-45 without stopping for a light.
I'd appreciate some advice, thanks!

 

[jgue467]

Yup it takes about 50 miles of over 50mph to get to 'Ready'. So keep driving. :redbrick:

 

[Nelsonmd]

Also, you will find craploads of information about this if you do a little searching. I assume you are getting the P0420 code (don't just take the tech's word for what to do, get the code you are throwing and research it yourself)? Search for that and you will find oodles of information. Yes you'll have to sort through a bunch of links, but trust me, it isn't that hard to find the information on this code. Also, if you download the FSM, you can get the details on that code straight from the horse's mouth.

It isn't just a bad sensor, it could be the cat itself. Every code has multiple possible causes. That is why you need to research it yourself. A mechanic or parts desk jockey are just going to start selling you the most common/expensive parts. It's better to know what your getting into, and to learn it from someone who isn't trying to sell you stuff.

 

[jeremyc74]

To complete the drive cycle, you need to start out with more than 3/4 of a tank of fuel, and you need to do some city driving, and then some highway driving all with the engine up to operating temp. Take it around town for a while, and then hit the interstate for a while, then turn around and come back. The computer has to see various scenarios to set the ready status, and it can take a while. But you HAVE to have close to a full tank if you're ever going to get it. I drove mine around for a week after changing an O2 and it didn't set ready status. Filled it up with fuel and it set it the same day.

 

[TheDurk]

Here is the official TSB giving required drive cycles. (see Page 12 for yours.) No guarantees, it didn't work for me first time.

http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

 

[TheDurk]

Also, you will find craploads of information about this if you do a little searching. I assume you are getting the P0420 code (don't just take the tech's word for what to do, get the code you are throwing and research it yourself)? Search for that and you will find oodles of information. Yes you'll have to sort through a bunch of links, but trust me, it isn't that hard to find the information on this code. Also, if you download the FSM, you can get the details on that code straight from the horse's mouth.

It isn't just a bad sensor, it could be the cat itself. Every code has multiple possible causes. That is why you need to research it yourself. A mechanic or parts desk jockey are just going to start selling you the most common/expensive parts. It's better to know what your getting into, and to learn it from someone who isn't trying to sell you stuff.

He's not getting a P0420, he's getting a Cat Not Ready after a hard reset. Whole different kettle of fish.

 

[fourfive]

http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

I encountered a similar situation when i took my 02 4runner in for testing several months ago. If i remember correctly my evap and cat stated it wasnt "ready" for testing. Go to the link above and go to the section that is specific to your code and take it through the drive cycle as it specifically states. It took several attempts bc it was difficult meeting the exact requirements. I found an access road without any stops/lights late at night when traffic was minimal so there wouldnt be any interruptions and i got it to reset. I would recommend getting an OBDII scanner off ebay (~$20+ depending on what all options you want). The scanner will be good to have so you know the moment it will be ready for retesting. It wasnt until i was able to meet the drive cycles EXACTLY as stated until mine reset. Was tedious & wasted plenty of gas trying to get it right but it did finally reset. Previous vehicles lve owned seemed to reset after driving it for a couple days but wasnt the case for my 4runner.

 

[Nelsonmd]

He's not getting a P0420, he's getting a Cat Not Ready after a hard reset. Whole different kettle of fish.

I was referring to the original code he threw that caused him to reset his ECU. He said he pulled a code for a bad downstream sensor, which IIRC is the first thing to check on the P0420 per the FSM.

I asked him for the actual code because it sounded like either a dealer/mechanic pulled the code for him, but maybe didn't explain all the things it could be.

If he did get a P0420 and his CAT is borderline (like so many of us have experienced), then it can take a very long time for the test to complete. For me, my ECU read not ready on the CAT check for the better part of a year, I assume because it kept getting borderline results to the test. It all may be related if his original code was a P0420.

 

[TheDurk]

I was referring to the original code he threw that caused him to reset his ECU. He said he pulled a code for a bad downstream sensor, which IIRC is the first thing to check on the P0420 per the FSM.

I asked him for the actual code because it sounded like either a dealer/mechanic pulled the code for him, but maybe didn't explain all the things it could be.

If he did get a P0420 and his CAT is borderline (like so many of us have experienced), then it can take a very long time for the test to complete. For me, my ECU read not ready on the CAT check for the better part of a year, I assume because it kept getting borderline results to the test. It all may be related if his original code was a P0420.

I doubt that, as he said it was specific to Bank 1, Sensor 2. Probably a P0136, p0141 or other sensor specific code, at least how I read it. Knowing the code is certainly good advice, though, as it would make this conversation unnecessary.

I also got a Not Ready for six months, and I have a URD sim. Figure that one. I may have a tiny exhaust leak at the manifold/first cat flange...I don't know if that could do it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

When I bought our 97 in Philadelphia it took over 90 miles of driving to get the CAT monitor to set. And that was city driving plus the PA turnpike to my house. It set about 3/4 of the way between to where I exited the turnpike.

 

[melpatton]

Here is the official TSB giving required drive cycles. (see Page 12 for yours.) No guarantees, it didn't work for me first time.

http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

Yes, that's the drive cycle I tried, and like you, it didn't work! But, I'll try again and like someone said above, I'll try it with a full tank. Thanks

 

[melpatton]

I doubt that, as he said it was specific to Bank 1, Sensor 2. Probably a P0136, p0141 or other sensor specific code, at least how I read it. Knowing the code is certainly good advice, though, as it would make this conversation unnecessary.

I also got a Not Ready for six months, and I have a URD sim. Figure that one. I may have a tiny exhaust leak at the manifold/first cat flange...I don't know if that could do it.

Yes, it was a p0141.

 

[melpatton]

I encountered a similar situation when i took my 02 4runner in for testing several months ago. If i remember correctly my evap and cat stated it wasnt "ready" for testing. Go to the link above and go to the section that is specific to your code and take it through the drive cycle as it specifically states. It took several attempts bc it was difficult meeting the exact requirements. I found an access road without any stops/lights late at night when traffic was minimal so there wouldnt be any interruptions and i got it to reset. I would recommend getting an OBDII scanner off ebay (~$20+ depending on what all options you want). The scanner will be good to have so you know the moment it will be ready for retesting. It wasnt until i was able to meet the drive cycles EXACTLY as stated until mine reset. Was tedious & wasted plenty of gas trying to get it right but it did finally reset. Previous vehicles lve owned seemed to reset after driving it for a couple days but wasnt the case for my 4runner.

Good idea about driving at night...try living in a metropolitan area and driving a consistent 35 for 7 minutes during the day!
I'll keep giving it a whack, thanks.

 

[melpatton]

I was referring to the original code he threw that caused him to reset his ECU. He said he pulled a code for a bad downstream sensor, which IIRC is the first thing to check on the P0420 per the FSM.

I asked him for the actual code because it sounded like either a dealer/mechanic pulled the code for him, but maybe didn't explain all the things it could be.

If he did get a P0420 and his CAT is borderline (like so many of us have experienced), then it can take a very long time for the test to complete. For me, my ECU read not ready on the CAT check for the better part of a year, I assume because it kept getting borderline results to the test. It all may be related if his original code was a P0420.

Hi NelsonMD
When I failed initially, I was informed that it was pulling only a p0141. I verified this at Autozone too (though I know they are not the best source).
I actually researched this code on this website, before I became a member and found which part it likely was based on the code.

 

[melpatton]

Follow up question regarding the drive cycle,
Does the engine need to start cold before the idling period?
Also, if I do the drive cycle once and decide to do it again (which I will), how much time in between does there need to be? I don't see it specified with the drive cycle info.

 

[fourfive]

I believe in your case, if the coolant temp and air intake temp are within the specified range, you will be fine to take your 4runner through the drive cycles multiple times. But if you have the OBDll scanner, you can recheck the "readiness" status after each drive cycle attempt even if it wasnt performed in "ideal" conditions. It will save you a lot of time and gas & will be useful to have to check/clear codes as needed in the future.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I doubt that, as he said it was specific to Bank 1, Sensor 2. Probably a P0136, p0141 or other sensor specific code, at least how I read it. Knowing the code is certainly good advice, though, as it would make this conversation unnecessary.

I also got a Not Ready for six months, and I have a URD sim. Figure that one. I may have a tiny exhaust leak at the manifold/first cat flange...I don't know if that could do it.

Yes, it was a p0141.

Hi NelsonMD
When I failed initially, I was informed that it was pulling only a p0141. I verified this at Autozone too (though I know they are not the best source).
I actually researched this code on this website, before I became a member and found which part it likely was based on the code.

Gotcha, I didn't look up the specific symptoms of the several codes it could be, but that answers the question. That is the same drive cycle though, so I'd suggest you just drive until it completes. I assume this is holding up your inspection? Usually when I have gone to get an inspection, they are ok with that last code not being complete if you have a good reason for having reset it and it wasn't too recently. I mean you can show them your receipt for the new part, should be problem solved. If not, then I'd say just let it go and wait for it to complete at a later date.

 

[melpatton]

Gotcha, I didn't look up the specific symptoms of the several codes it could be, but that answers the question. That is the same drive cycle though, so I'd suggest you just drive until it completes. I assume this is holding up your inspection? Usually when I have gone to get an inspection, they are ok with that last code not being complete if you have a good reason for having reset it and it wasn't too recently. I mean you can show them your receipt for the new part, should be problem solved. If not, then I'd say just let it go and wait for it to complete at a later date.

I live in Ohio, so our e-check laws are probably a little different from yours. They will not approve my inspection even though there is only one code left to reset. Also, there is a $200 to be excused from the inspection. I got a great deal on the part (45) which I was excited about until now!

 

[TheDurk]

I live in Ohio, so our e-check laws are probably a little different from yours. They will not approve my inspection even though there is only one code left to reset. Also, there is a $200 to be excused from the inspection. I got a great deal on the part (45) which I was excited about until now!

Yeah, likewise, NJ won't excuse anything, and there is no $200 free pass. PItA.

 

[Nelsonmd]

What does $200 to be excused mean? Mass has decently strict inspection requirements, probably about the same as Ohio. I can't imagine that Mass is LESS-controlling than many states other than cali... They aren't supposed to give you a pass, but I have found places here that will pass you anyway, especially if you are trying to fix everything, or if they actually understand how the codes work. I mean the drive cycle may take longer to complete than the repair tag will last if you fail an inspection.

Are you on a ticking clock to get the inspection done? If not, I'd say just drive it until it finishes.

The only other thing I can think of is that if you are getting borderline results on the check, then it will not show ready and will keep repeating the test cycle until it either fails enough or passes well. I know the P0420 works this way, I assume the P0141 does too. If your new sensor isn't Denso, or for some other reason is reading borderline, that may be causing your test to repeat over and over. Other brand O2 sensors don't always read as well as Denso does.