Catalitic converter lifespan

OK, now I feel very relieved. I usually warm up about 5 maybe 10 minutes if I get distracted, or 20 if I've forgotten once or twice. Running a car all night? Wierd...these people never heard of motels, or down sleeping bags?

There was a guy on this forum who said he liked to camp out in his 4Runner and he'd leave the engine running on cold nights to keep warm. There was another guy who said he slept in his 4Runner while parked overnight in a truck stop during a road trip. I remember him specifically saying that he burned a 1/4 tank of fuel idling through the night.

And then there's my neighbor, who is like an absent-minded professor. She told me that her car felt "like the engine is clogged up and has no power" after coming home from work one day. As soon as I started the engine, I could tell that something was very wrong. It turned out the exhaust had way too much backpressure. She admitted to me that she parked her car at work and forgot to turn off the engine. So it sat idling for her entire shift and the cat got seriously overheated and must have broken down internally. She drove an older Chevy sedan at the time and she had to have the cat replaced.

So yeah, I guess people do weird things with the vehicles sometimes.
 
Around my crime infested City, the Toyota 4Runner is the highest targeted vehicle for cat thieves. Yesterday they hit one of our Toyota dealerships sawing them off five new 4Runners, parked there.:50cal:

Guess this keeps many owners getting new cats.:crybaby:
 
I have 213k miles on my 2004 V6 4WD. I replaced the catalytic converter at 202k. Can't remember which bank - it was the one right behind the manifold on the drivers side. I was recommended to go to a muffler/exhaust shop that does many of these every day. When they called their contacts for parts I think they couldn't find one for a 2004 (aftermarket). They were told to put in a converter for a 2002 and a sensor (if I remember correctly). The whole job cost me $265. The guy who did the work said that was the hardest converter he ever had to put in and hopes to never see it again:) I believe they also told me the 4runner has 3 converters on it.
 
Had my CC replaced this week. All the lights on the dash came on. Yota picked up the tab. I did run some diesel in it by mistake? Wonder if that was a factor?

926733170_EiXY2-L.jpg
 
I 've red something about this code and the BS about catalitic. The guy wrote he ended up replacing post catalitic O2 sensor. It was eather here or toyota120 forum.
 
sorry if anyone's already mentioned it but if you really want to find out if cat or o2 why don't you just swap o2's from left side to right and right to left see if the code follows o2's or stays on same bank you'll know which is bad?
 
Most if not all car manufacturers use the same testing parameters for catalytic converter efficiency, they will use a Pre-Cat O2 or AFR Sensor and a Post-Cat O2 sensor to measure the effective "oxygen storage" and from that it gives its result on what it thinks the catalytic converter's health is. That's it plain and simple, the ECU will look at Pre-Cat O2 levels and then Post-Cat O2 levels to determine if the catalytic converter is actually working. This presents a small plethora of possible problems and scenarios ranging from complete catalytic converter failure to biased O2 Sensors. The reality is that this is nothing more than a Go, No Go test, because the catalytic converter does not deal only in O2. The only proper and 100% accurate way to test a catalytic converter's efficiency is to preform an intrusive test, where you drill into the cat and use a 4 or 5 gas analyzer to verify functionality. But, most people don't want to drill into the cat and most customers don't like that idea either...

In any case, if one of these codes is tripped you should always assume an "innocent until proven guilty" frame of mind towards the problem. First test the O2 sensors individually and then compare to what the scantool is providing as information. After verifying that the sensors are working properly and that the scantool data is in-line with the sensors I would hook up a 4 or 5 gas analyzer to the exhaust and measure the gases. This won't give you a 100% accurate view of what is going on, but it will help you figure out what the catalytic converter is doing. Without going deeply into the operation and chemical reactions that occur inside of the catalytic converter, the gases will vary according to what is actually happening. For example, if your catalytic converter was working well there would be little Oxygen coming out the tailpipe because it is used in reaction to modify quantities of NOx, CO, CO2, and HC. Keep in mind also that the catalytic converter is NOT the problem, a catalytic converter should last the life of the vehicle or at the very least a whole hell of a lot longer than most people will keep the vehicle. If the vehicle is operating as it is supposed to your catalytic converter should not fail prematurely, this is a SYMPTOM of another problem, not a problem in it self. Something to keep in mind when dealing with these codes/repairs, because I have seen guys slap a set of sensors and cats on a car and have it come back with the same problem months down the line because the real problem trashed the cats again.

There are other things to consider, such as if the vehicle has been driven with faulty sensors for a long time sustained damage to the catalytic converter may have occurred and it will need to be replaced anyways. The sensors may have damaged the cat but it could be "brought back to life." I have seen catalytic converters be brought back to life before, but really its a 50/50 shot in the dark.

And yes I realize this is an old thread, but it was something that I felt should be cleared up since the two gentlemen who were mechanics ended up bickering more than really trying to help the poster.

Here are some links:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm
http://www.converterwarehouse.com/tech-tips/news_page.cfm?Key=catalytic_converter-&News=100
http://www.converterwarehouse.com/tech-tips/index.cfm
http://www.all-catalytic-converters.com/techtip2.html
 
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Thanks BlackWorks, you're advice is sound and rational, without the outbursts of emotion shown by others that get their feelings hurt.
 
Thanks, I really appreciate that. I chose to be a mechanic because I enjoy fixing things and tinkering, I also enjoy helping people out when I can. I try to learn as much as I can and provide information I am confident in, sometimes its not the right information, but I personally try to accept it and learn from it, rather than refute and deny it on principle.
 
Unless the cat rusts out or the insides come loose and rattle a well tunes properly running FI engine should never have cat problems. I never replaced the ones on my recently sold 300k 97 pathfinder, also never ahd a problem or a code for them.... .02

I do have a friend with an imported from sweden Ferrari 308 Quatro that runs cats and no mufflers (had to to get it imported in the US) After shaking loose the insides twice on it we just gutted the cats and inserted tubes inside to make it "look" correct. :)
 
Most if not all car manufacturers use the same testing parameters for catalytic converter efficiency, they will use a Pre-Cat O2 or AFR Sensor and a Post-Cat O2 sensor to measure the effective "oxygen storage" and from that it gives its result on what it thinks the catalytic converter's health is. That's it plain and simple, the ECU will look at Pre-Cat O2 levels and then Post-Cat O2 levels to determine if the catalytic converter is actually working. This presents a small plethora of possible problems and scenarios ranging from complete catalytic converter failure to biased O2 Sensors. The reality is that this is nothing more than a Go, No Go test, because the catalytic converter does not deal only in O2. The only proper and 100% accurate way to test a catalytic converter's efficiency is to preform an intrusive test, where you drill into the cat and use a 4 or 5 gas analyzer to verify functionality. But, most people don't want to drill into the cat and most customers don't like that idea either...

In any case, if one of these codes is tripped you should always assume an "innocent until proven guilty" frame of mind towards the problem. First test the O2 sensors individually and then compare to what the scantool is providing as information. After verifying that the sensors are working properly and that the scantool data is in-line with the sensors I would hook up a 4 or 5 gas analyzer to the exhaust and measure the gases. This won't give you a 100% accurate view of what is going on, but it will help you figure out what the catalytic converter is doing. Without going deeply into the operation and chemical reactions that occur inside of the catalytic converter, the gases will vary according to what is actually happening. For example, if your catalytic converter was working well there would be little Oxygen coming out the tailpipe because it is used in reaction to modify quantities of NOx, CO, CO2, and HC. Keep in mind also that the catalytic converter is NOT the problem, a catalytic converter should last the life of the vehicle or at the very least a whole hell of a lot longer than most people will keep the vehicle. If the vehicle is operating as it is supposed to your catalytic converter should not fail prematurely, this is a SYMPTOM of another problem, not a problem in it self. Something to keep in mind when dealing with these codes/repairs, because I have seen guys slap a set of sensors and cats on a car and have it come back with the same problem months down the line because the real problem trashed the cats again.

There are other things to consider, such as if the vehicle has been driven with faulty sensors for a long time sustained damage to the catalytic converter may have occurred and it will need to be replaced anyways. The sensors may have damaged the cat but it could be "brought back to life." I have seen catalytic converters be brought back to life before, but really its a 50/50 shot in the dark.

And yes I realize this is an old thread, but it was something that I felt should be cleared up since the two gentlemen who were mechanics ended up bickering more than really trying to help the poster.

Great post. Can you give me a run down of how you recommend trying to bring the cat back to life? My mechanic just said to drive it on the highway for a few minutes to get it warm.
 
Great post. Can you give me a run down of how you recommend trying to bring the cat back to life? My mechanic just said to drive it on the highway for a few minutes to get it warm.

Honestly serious hard driving too get that sucker nice and toasty is the way I have heard to bring them back. I don't know how well this stuff works... CataClean Global Ltd. but maybe see if its not just snakeoil?

Also how are you sure your catalytic converter is "dead?" I've rewritten that post into a slightly more informative section in the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/132953-toolbox-how-use.html sticky. Hopefully this helps you somehow.
 
Honestly serious hard driving too get that sucker nice and toasty is the way I have heard to bring them back. I don't know how well this stuff works... CataClean Global Ltd. but maybe see if its not just snakeoil?

Also how are you sure your catalytic converter is "dead?" I've rewritten that post into a slightly more informative section in the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/132953-toolbox-how-use.html sticky. Hopefully this helps you somehow.
Yeah, I just reread that. I had the engine light come on today and took it to a mechanic. He did a quick scan and said he got a code that he said he needed to investigate more in order to know what's up. I left it with him for an hour. When I came back he said it was probably the front cat by the header. He asked if I had just been driving it around town lately. I have been. It usually idles for 10 to 15 minutes to warm up in the morning and then I drive pretty easy all the time because the roads are ice/snow covered. He suggested I take it out on the highway and get it hot because the next step is replacing the cat. I didn't know to ask all the good questions you listed in your post so I'll call him tomorrow to ask what he did to diagnose it.
 
BlackWorksInc,

I've noticed that there is a bit of a sweet smell in the exhaust right at start-up but it doesn't look like I'm loosing any coolant. Is it possible that I could have a head gasket issue that's serious enough to cause the smell, not serious enough to cause a noticeable drop in coolant level, but significant enough to cause a P0420?
 
I suppose its possible... But honestly, even if it was a small leak you'd notice it at start-up with a puff of smoke because of the coolant seeping into the cylinder overnight.
 

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