CB wiring help

[fluffeh]

I just got my whole CB setup (Cobra 19DXIV, Wilson Flex 4', etc) and have a few questions about the setup and wiring.

1. I'm not sure where to get the power from. I've done a lot of searching and basically narrowed it down to two options - Directly to the battery or do an add-a-fuse and get the power from there.
I like the added safety and wiring ease of the add-a-fuse. Problem is, in my reading, people have said to put into the ACC slot which is a 15A fuse, and I can only find 10A add-a-fuse things. Is there a different fuse slot that would work with a 10A fuse, but only come on when the key was in?
OR
Is the battery wiring better in some way? What's the best way to get through the firewall?

2. I'm getting the drifter mount for the antenna, and it has a ground wire. I was just curious where the best place was near the mount to run that wire, if anyone had any suggestions. I was thinking I'd just do it to one of the screws where the mount bolts on. Would that work?

3. Where can I get an SWR meter for tuning? I don't know anyone who has one and would rather not buy one, although I will if there's no other way. Anyone know if any stores will rent them or something?

Sorry about all of the questions. Wiring is not a topic I'm very familiar with. :ybrick:

 

[shootmymime]

tap into a fuse on the interior fuse block. use a mini tap and get power that way. (the fuse block is by your left knee)

its easier than going through the fire wall.

sorry i dont have answers to any other questions.

 

[fluffeh]

tap into a fuse on the interior fuse block. use a mini tap and get power that way. (the fuse block is by your left knee)

its easier than going through the fire wall.

sorry i dont have answers to any other questions.

That's what I was talking about with the add-a-fuse. Which fuse should I use though?
And I'm gonna need to go through the firewall for my PA anyway.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

I just pulled power off the cigarette lighter wire. The radio will not pull more than 2 amps at the most.

If you're mounting the radio in the dash or ash tray spot, be sure and tune the SWR before you mount the radio or you won't be able to reach the antenna wire to unhook/hook it (and have to take the radio out when you tune the antenna). You can probably get a cheap (like $20 or so) SWR meter at Radio Shack, or better, your local truck stop (a good place to get the antenna too).

 

[fluffeh]

I just pulled power off the cigarette lighter wire. The radio will not pull more than 2 amps at the most.

If you're mounting the radio in the dash or ash tray spot, be sure and tune the SWR before you mount the radio or you won't be able to reach the antenna wire to unhook/hook it (and have to take the radio out when you tune the antenna). You can probably get a cheap (like $20 or so) SWR meter at Radio Shack, or better, your local truck stop (a good place to get the antenna too).

Can you still use the cigarette lighter?

And thanks for the advice. I definitely would have made that mistake.

 

[TCMach]

I definitely made the mistake of buttoning up my install before I got the radio tuned and since it was in my ashtray I just whipped all the trim off real quick. But go to a truck stop or cb store to get it tuned. I got mine tuned for free (although i did buy some stuff from them too). Took about 5 minutes.
On the topic of power I ran mine off a power wire for my switch (for my auxiliary lights, it's illuminated so it has to have a power from the battery) and it works great. Not sure if you have a switch like that but it's a good way to do it.

 

[Kurtis]

Can you still use the cigarette lighter?

And thanks for the advice. I definitely would have made that mistake.

Don't split off the radio or the cigarette lighter or any of that other crap. Modifying your electrical system can cause enough problems. Don't compound it be doing it half assed. That's how you get electrical fires. Go ahead, ask me how I know.

Your best bet is to use an add-a-fuse. It doesn't matter which slot you take as the add-a-fuse will keep the original fuse as well.

Never run equipment from the battery with out a fuse. If the hot wire grounds it self by chaffing over time there is nothing there for protection and it will ignite the wire then possibly what ever is near it.

I punch thru the firewall where the hood latch release is. Just make sure you weather proof it afterwords.

 

[fluffeh]

I definitely made the mistake of buttoning up my install before I got the radio tuned and since it was in my ashtray I just whipped all the trim off real quick. But go to a truck stop or cb store to get it tuned. I got mine tuned for free (although i did buy some stuff from them too). Took about 5 minutes.
On the topic of power I ran mine off a power wire for my switch (for my auxiliary lights, it's illuminated so it has to have a power from the battery) and it works great. Not sure if you have a switch like that but it's a good way to do it.

I don't. :\
Now that you mention it though, I don't actually know how to get the trim/ashtray out.

Don't split off the radio or the cigarette lighter or any of that other crap. Modifying your electrical system can cause enough problems. Don't compound it be doing it half assed. That's how you get electrical fires. Go ahead, ask me how I know.

Your best bet is to use an add-a-fuse. It doesn't matter which slot you take as the add-a-fuse will keep the original fuse as well.

Never run equipment from the battery with out a fuse. If the hot wire grounds it self by chaffing over time there is nothing there for protection and it will ignite the wire then possibly what ever is near it.

I punch thru the firewall where the hood latch release is. Just make sure you weather proof it afterwords.

The add-a-fuses that I've found all say not to go over 10A. Does that not matter?
And there is a fuse built into the hot wire in the CB, but I'd still rather do the add-a-fuse.

How do I weatherproof it? That's the part I'm worried about and don't know how to do.

Thanks for the answers everyone. ^^

 

[Kurtis]

I don't. :\
Now that you mention it though, I don't actually know how to get the trim/ashtray out.



The add-a-fuses that I've found all say not to go over 10A. Does that not matter?
And there is a fuse built into the hot wire in the CB, but I'd still rather do the add-a-fuse.

How do I weatherproof it? That's the part I'm worried about and don't know how to do.

Thanks for the answers everyone. ^^

As long as the in-line fuse is there you are good to go and there is no need run second fuse. I doubt your CB will ever draw more than 10 amps anyway, so you should be fine there. I weather proof it with electrical tape and Black RTV.

 

[TCMach]

Just for reference. This is a thread with a post by LINYRunner on how to get the trim out (link here)
And I'm pretty sure the Cobra 19 fits in the ashtray spot (here is a link to a post by 4-ripcord about how to fit it in the ashtray, its easier to visualize once you have the trim out)

 

[fluffeh]

Just for reference. This is a thread with a post by LINYRunner on how to get the trim out (link here)
And I'm pretty sure the Cobra 19 fits in the ashtray spot (here is a link to a post by 4-ripcord about how to fit it in the ashtray, its easier to visualize once you have the trim out)

I saw the post by 4-ripcord. That's what I'm planning on doing.
Thanks a lot for the post on the trim though.

Alright Kurtis. Sounds like that's what I'm doing. Thanks. ^^

I think I've gotten all of my main issues answered. I'm gonna throw it all in tomorrow hopefully.

Also unrelated question, TCMach, what did you coat your skids with? Mine are getting gunky and even a little rusty.

 

[sooner02r1]

I ran mine straight to the battery with an in-line fuse. I like to be able to turn on the CB or weather radio with the truck off. But yeah if you want it switched, an add-a-fuse will be the best bet, and doesn't matter which one, just use the same amp size. I like to typically use something that's not crucial to the truck running and getting me home for worst-case-scenario situations.

 

[TCMach]

Also unrelated question, TCMach, what did you coat your skids with? Mine are getting gunky and even a little rusty.

I used alot of different products on my entire undercarriage because it had loads of surface rust. I wish I had a picture. But as a topcoat I used rustoleum truck bed liner. Its nice because it goes on easy, pretty tough, and if rust does form under it the bedliner will flake off when touched or vibrated well. Here was my rundown.
Rusty Parts:
-big and small wire brushes to get off all the surface rust
-sand the whole thing with 60 grit
-wipe it all off (I used acetone to make sure I got everything and so it would dry fast)
-rustoleum rusty metal primer (2 coats)
-rustoleum truck bedliner (2 coats)

With my actual skids, sliders, and stuff that were bare metal:
-went over the whole thing with a green etch pad (its like 320 grit I think)
-wipe down with acetone
-rustoleum self etching primer (2 coats)
-rustoleum truck bedliner (2 coats)

That second process is actually based on the instructions of a roll on bedliner I used on my old chevy. here is a link to those instructions. Hopefully this helps a little bit. Also bedliner will stick to anything it touches including your hands, acetone is the best way to get it off that I have found. You'll rub your hands raw if you try and use Fast Orange or any other cleaning products.

 

[fluffeh]

I used alot of different products on my entire undercarriage because it had loads of surface rust. I wish I had a picture. But as a topcoat I used rustoleum truck bed liner. Its nice because it goes on easy, pretty tough, and if rust does form under it the bedliner will flake off when touched or vibrated well. Here was my rundown.
Rusty Parts:
-big and small wire brushes to get off all the surface rust
-sand the whole thing with 60 grit
-wipe it all off (I used acetone to make sure I got everything and so it would dry fast)
-rustoleum rusty metal primer (2 coats)
-rustoleum truck bedliner (2 coats)

With my actual skids, sliders, and stuff that were bare metal:
-went over the whole thing with a green etch pad (its like 320 grit I think)
-wipe down with acetone
-rustoleum self etching primer (2 coats)
-rustoleum truck bedliner (2 coats)

That second process is actually based on the instructions of a roll on bedliner I used on my old chevy. here is a link to those instructions. Hopefully this helps a little bit. Also bedliner will stick to anything it touches including your hands, acetone is the best way to get it off that I have found. You'll rub your hands raw if you try and use Fast Orange or any other cleaning products.

Wow, very informative. I think I'll do the primer and bedliner for my skids. Should help a lot with the look too. Especially with the bumper I'll have eventually. ^^