Changed oil at 760 miles...
- Thread starter Wizzard
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
wfo9
New member
Small microscopic shavings in the oil initially is normal. These microscopic shavings even pass through the oil filter. It almost looks like tiny bits of glitter more than shavings.
Do not worry and just enjoy your car.
I don't think he was worried. Just seemed like he was sharing his observations.
I consider it very normal.
chmura
New member
Oil changes are like religion. Everyone has a different faith. I change mine at 3-4k with synthetic. If he is happy at changing the oil at 760 miles so be it, does not harm the vehicle at all.
I had a new M3 few years ago and the first oil change was done at 1200 miles by BMW. After that I changed the oil every 4k miles myself NOT ~12k like BMW calls for.
wfo9
New member
Look harder, it was there.
chmura
New member
Did you fully disassemble and looked at your paper oil filer? I am almost certain you could find at least one small shaving in there. If you did not fully examine your paper filter of course you did not find any.
sandcrawler
Senior Member
at that frequent of an OCI, you really should spring for a Used Oil Analysis or two. you'll almost certainly find plenty of additive left (TBN) and that you're perfectly fine to extend your change interval considerably.
This.
And no need for an oil analysis, this is normal initial wear-in. Oil analysis are more for feel-good in the end when it comes to wear metals, but very useful for extended change intervals and water/fuel dilution. You can have higher than normal amounts of metals showing in a UOA and still have great wear, only a tear-down would tell the true story.
Jetboy
New member
I had intended to just run out to 10k before my first oil change. Any reason to do it sooner?
My 4runner I replaced this with was changed every 5k with dino oil and even at the 205k oil change it came out amazingly translucent - caramel not black. I didn't have any reason to change it more often than the recommended interval. If the 1GR is as good as the 5VZ I'll be really happy. And I think it will be.
My 4runner I replaced this with was changed every 5k with dino oil and even at the 205k oil change it came out amazingly translucent - caramel not black. I didn't have any reason to change it more often than the recommended interval. If the 1GR is as good as the 5VZ I'll be really happy. And I think it will be.
1engineer
Moderator
Not unless you are driving on dusty dirty trails continuously or pulling a heavy trailer most of the time.
Whiplash Willy
New member
Some manufactures use a special kind of oil in the factory fill that helps with the break-in process. For example, I know that VW TDI engines are initially broken in, in the factory, drained, and filled with a special oil. So in their case, it is bad to change the initial factory fill before the first scheduled oil change at 10k miles. So changing the initial oil earlier then scheduled isn't always a good thing.
All in all, it probley doesn't matter either way. I have yet to read of any issues with our dual vvti 1GR-FE engines, and they have been out for some time now.
Honda supposedly has the same thing. They tell you not to do the first oil change early. It would be interesting to have an oil analysis done on the stuff to see if it's anything special.
That is up to you. Are there elevated levels of wear metals in the oil on new engines, of course, and the filter will not catch it all. On performance motors built in engine shops (which are built/assembled considerably more precisely than assembly line motors) the oil is generally flushed after initial start-up (~15 min run/dyno time), then again at 100 miles and once more at 500 miles. Then again a 4R won't see the same hp/rpm.
If I remember correctly the 4R factory fill is simply the high viscosity TGMO...nothing fancy about it. hth
Hadelson
New member
One of my positions was working for a large Transportation Company (largest in US). They have a fleet of over the road rigs and trailers. They were totally dialed in with Total Quality Management and did extensive research on oil, Synthetic and Dino and correct interval. Substantial data developed through oil analysis, engine wear and driving habits. All equipment was dialed into computer system monitoring run time, run speed, idle time and MPG.
What they found..........Synthetic is best. These where large truck diesels so needed minimum idle time after start and after a long run. Enough to cycle engine oil through the filter system removing any metal particles and most important acids that developed via the diesel compressed ignition process. At the time of my leaving, oil change intervals were at 50K per unit. This was monitored and happened religiously through extensive countywide maintenance network. It was common to have power units run normally without any engine issues at over a million miles.
Now to gas engines and our cars. We don't have the worry of acids in oil to extent a diesel engine has, but same principle applies. Start-up and minimum idle to start oil flow and full engine lubrication...about 1 minute. End of long run-idle for about a minute to have oil pass through filter. Then shut down. What kills our engines is the stop and go runs without engine getting to full operations temperature. Allows moisture to build up in engine and exhaust system. Today for example, left house at 7 Degrees and engine and vehicle didn't reach normal operating range for 20 minutes-15 miles of this on interstate.
I used to be a 5K oil changer fanatic. Now I take the time to ensure proper vehicle operations getting to normal operations temp and appropriate shut down. My T4R just rolled over 20K today and it does not use a drop of oil. My dad had two T4R's a 2nd gen and a 3rd Gen. He was brutal on them towing a bass boat all over the northeast with hard acceleration from stops. The 2nd Gen was a 4 cylinder and the 3rd Gen the 3.4 V6. Both ran flawlessly, the 2nd gen had 250K when he traded it for the 3rd gen. The 3rd gen had 160k and outlasted Dad. Only failure was electric antenna needed replacing.
To each there own in terms of comfort level with oil changing interval. Proven research has shown not necessary at low mileage intervals if you take appropriate operations steps.
My two cents
Regards
What they found..........Synthetic is best. These where large truck diesels so needed minimum idle time after start and after a long run. Enough to cycle engine oil through the filter system removing any metal particles and most important acids that developed via the diesel compressed ignition process. At the time of my leaving, oil change intervals were at 50K per unit. This was monitored and happened religiously through extensive countywide maintenance network. It was common to have power units run normally without any engine issues at over a million miles.
Now to gas engines and our cars. We don't have the worry of acids in oil to extent a diesel engine has, but same principle applies. Start-up and minimum idle to start oil flow and full engine lubrication...about 1 minute. End of long run-idle for about a minute to have oil pass through filter. Then shut down. What kills our engines is the stop and go runs without engine getting to full operations temperature. Allows moisture to build up in engine and exhaust system. Today for example, left house at 7 Degrees and engine and vehicle didn't reach normal operating range for 20 minutes-15 miles of this on interstate.
I used to be a 5K oil changer fanatic. Now I take the time to ensure proper vehicle operations getting to normal operations temp and appropriate shut down. My T4R just rolled over 20K today and it does not use a drop of oil. My dad had two T4R's a 2nd gen and a 3rd Gen. He was brutal on them towing a bass boat all over the northeast with hard acceleration from stops. The 2nd Gen was a 4 cylinder and the 3rd Gen the 3.4 V6. Both ran flawlessly, the 2nd gen had 250K when he traded it for the 3rd gen. The 3rd gen had 160k and outlasted Dad. Only failure was electric antenna needed replacing.
To each there own in terms of comfort level with oil changing interval. Proven research has shown not necessary at low mileage intervals if you take appropriate operations steps.
My two cents
Regards
