Changing my TB and WP, found all of this corrosion. How screwed am I?

[uncleslam23]

Definitely was not expecting this. Anything I should do to prevent any further corrosion? And is the rust inside the water pump normal? Also, I know this pictures don't show a whole lot, but would you guys recommend changing the camshaft seals? They came in the kit I got, but I'm not sure I should mess around with all of that.

This is a real bummer. I was making good progress and feeling somewhat triumphant until I came across this mess. Any suggestions, advice, or recommendations would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[LittleCaesar]

I have to ask how many miles are on the 4runner?

What type of coolant was used (Prestone, Toyota, etc)?

Given the erosion of the water passage for the WP, I'd personally slap on a new WP/TB and go from there. Would I be looking for another engine as well? Yes.

 

[JDMcQ]

The "corrosion" on the block looks like the aftermath of a coolant leak and just some grime. Clean it up the best you can. As far as the water passages, someone didn't use the proper ratio of coolant/water. Put it back together, run some distilled water with a coolant flush additive (Prestone super flush?). Maybe do it twice. Drain it and refill with distilled water a couple times to get as much out as possible (run to temperature each time). Then use a good quality coolant/distilled water mixture. You will probably be OK.

Cam seals are your call. didn't do mine, but my engine looked cherry at 90k.

 

[uncleslam23]

Shit really? I was afraid of that. It has about 160k miles on it, and I'm not sure what coolant the previous owner (my sister) used in it, but I'm going to assume it was whatever was cheapest

 

[JDMcQ]

I wouldn't sweat it too much. It's not optimal, but could be worse.

 

[nissanh]

Your sister used municipal water!

How good is the radiator? It is best to get a new radiator at this time.

Remember to use distilled water (deionized is best, but hard to find).

 

[uncleslam23]

Thanks for the info guys! Yeah, a new radiator is on my list of things to do....probably within the next month or two. So my sister was using the "green" coolant for go know how long. When I put a new radiator in, should I go back to toyota's red stuff, or should I just stick with the green? Thanks again!

 

[WillK]

Red. Your engine should be fine, it's just gunk. But flush that thing a few times and get a radiator, hoses, thermostat and anything else that has fluid through it.

The thing I wonder what the heater core looks like.

 

[jreask]

Flush it a couple of times after replacing the radiator, thermo, WP and of course the TB. You will be fine. I wouldn't worry about the cam seals, if it ain't broke.....
A small leak will look really bad in that area but clean it up and it'll look like new.

 

[Kredence]

First, the leaking and corrosion is from a bad pump, which you're replacing. No big deal. With that said, I would seriously replace the tensioner pulley/bearing while you are in there. It's probably had a lot of water and debris slung into it. There isn't much you can do about the block. I would avoid using flushing chemicals. After you assemble everything, pickup a "flush-kit". It has fittings that allow you to tie a garden hose into one of the heater lines. Crank up the engine, turn on the hose and run it until the water comes out clear. After that, pull the bottom hose and drain out all of the water. Fill it back up 50/50 and drive it. You may need to flush it again in a couple of thousand miles. I would only replace the radiator if it shows significant debris and/or damage on the top of the core. If you are honestly worried, you can always buy a new radiator later. Out here in Arizona, I've had a lot of cars that were run on water and rusted beyond belief. A bit of TLC usually does the trick. Just my 2c.

 

[uncleslam23]

Thanks again guys. I'll get on that flush ASAP. So I ran into another, quite possibly catastrophic problem tonight. I finished replacing everything and buttoned it all back up. When I went to start it, the battery was dead....no idea why. No big deal though, I just threw it on a charger for a few hours and let it get enough juice to start it up. When I finally got it started, it sounded TERRIBLE. It was extremely loud, like I was idling at 4,000 RPM, but also had a weird noise that I can't really describe. It sound like BuhrRuhRuhRuhRuhRuhR if you were saying that really fast(I know that probably doesn't help much). It was only on for a few seconds before I killed it. Does anyone have any idea where I could have gone wrong? The only thing I was concerned about was over tightening the drive belts, but that probably couldn't cause this noise could it?



I'm desperate, and could use some help. Thank you all so much

Oh, and Kredence, I grew up in Tucson. I miss Guero Canelo almost every single day....the mexican food up here in Denver sucks!

Edit: A few other things I thought about. When I was trying to put the belt on the passenger side cam randomly rotated about 90, I just lined it back up and continued on. Also, I rotated the crank several times until the belt was back at it's initial position. All of the pulleys seemed to line up fine, but the white mark on the belt was back by one tooth on each pulley. Lastly, I did not disconnect the battery before I changed out everything. Not sure if any of these mean anything.

 

[audiness]

So you changed the timing belt? Are you 100% sure you got it lined up correctly? When Changing timing belts I always mark the original position with a paint pen - on both camshaft sprokets, the belt, and the crankshaft gear.