Changing out the thermostat, use only OEM?

[ShooterMcGavin]

I will be changing my TB/WP soon, and I will replace the thermostat in the process. I bought a thermostat from O'reilly's, thinking they would give me something that was of good quality. I'm about to buy some parts from Camelback, so I'm wondering if I should really buy an OEM thermostat while I'm at it. This is a part that I don't want to have to change again, before I do another TB change in the future, or... Does the thermostat change NOT require taking off the timing belt? Maybe it's not a big deal to swap this one part out?

The thermostat I have is made by Murray, part number 9930484078. I haven't taken it apart yet, so I don't know how it compares to the one in the engine.

Should I use it or go for only the OEM thermostat?

*ETA: Looking at the two thermostats here, mine looks about identical to the one on the right:

 

[Chuckles89]

I would get the OEM one. They aren't very expensive and my original one was still good at 260k miles and 18.5 years.

 

[kball]

The thermostat that came with my kit looks like the one on the left in your pic. I guess as long as it's rated to open at the right temp it should work.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

The thermostat that came with my kit looks like the one on the left in your pic. I guess as long as it's rated to open at the right temp it should work.

Speaking of that... I haven't opened the kit that I bought yet. I got it on ebay, from that AirCabinMan, I think? Maybe I should open my package and see what it has first

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Dang it! My kit has a replacement thermostat in it too, which looks like the one on the left in the picture. The kit also has replacement V-belts which, I'm guessing, are the accessory belts... I bought an extra set of those belts too. I shoulda opened my box to see what was in it

I'm going to install the thermostat that came with the kit, the one resembling the one on the left in the photo.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You don't have to remove the TB to change the thermostat. Just remove the thermostat housing and you have access.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

You don't have to remove the TB to change the thermostat. Just remove the thermostat housing and you have access.

Good info to know. Thanks.
Do you just remove the TB cover to access the thermostat housing?

 

[Drogo99]

Good info to know. Thanks.
Do you just remove the TB cover to access the thermostat housing?

You can just follow the lower radiator hose to where it meets up with your engine block. That's your thermostat housing, just need to unscrew the three 10mm bolts.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks.

 

[ThorInc]

OEM and jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position....:rockon:

 

[The Count]

OEM and jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position....:rockon:

Sorry, the air bleed or "jiggle valve" needs to be in the 12 o'clock position anytime the thermostat sits vertically. In theory the air will get trapped in the highest area in the housing, therefor that is where the air bleed needs to be.

As far as oem vs parts store goes, the main issue is not only overall quality but the size of the opening. In Mitsubishi/DSM 2.0L turbo motors, NO parts store thermostats had an opening as large as the OEM ones. This led to cooing flow issues in several "built" setups I built/worked on. I use OEM thermostats by default whenever possible.

 

[Drcoffee]

I just went thru the aftermarket t-stat issue last fall after doing the TB & WP. I could not get thr truck to run cool. It was consistently 208* with two different t-stat brands. When I bought a toyota t-stat low and behold the temps were back to 188*. I have an OBD2 "engine link" app on my cell phone to monitor the engine.

Use only OEM t-stats. Its not worth risking the head gasket on a 16 year old truck.

AND THE JIGGLER VALVE GOES AT 6 o'clock! DO NOT PUT IT AT 12 o'clock.
FSM INSTALL. http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/co5vzfe/ther/inst.pdf

 

[ThorInc]

Sorry, the air bleed or "jiggle valve" needs to be in the 12 o'clock position anytime the thermostat sits vertically. In theory the air will get trapped in the highest area in the housing, therefor that is where the air bleed needs to be.

As far as oem vs parts store goes, the main issue is not only overall quality but the size of the opening. In Mitsubishi/DSM 2.0L turbo motors, NO parts store thermostats had an opening as large as the OEM ones. This led to cooing flow issues in several "built" setups I built/worked on. I use OEM thermostats by default whenever possible.

There is research on this site (and others) as well as the FSM that supports the 6 o'clock position.

 

[The Count]

There is research on this site (and others) as well as the FSM that supports the 6 o'clock position.

I stand corrected. I just checked the FSM and it does say 6 o'clock :shrug:

 

[cek77]

Ya, that was my pic of thermostats from last week. I have an Obd bluetooth reader and the torque app. The temp was the same with that cheap thermostat. It will do the job but for how long. The Toyota one seems built to last.

As far as jiggle goes, my old 4runner was running 202° with jiggle at 12. I removed and installed at 6 and it was always 192° after that according to my reader. 10° difference is good enough for me.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I'm convinced

 

[gamefreakgc]

Jiggle valve orientation doesn't really matter much. I've had it in mine at 6 o'clock, 12 o'clock, 8:31 o'clock. All that matters is that it has a jiggle valve.

 

[YFZsandrider]

I completely rebuilt a 22re in my last pickup, sold it a short time later with about 10k miles on the motor. The new owner contacted me abut a year later and said after overheating a couple times, he blew the head gasket on the engine. I used all oem dealer parts on the timing belt and water pump, but I cheaped out and bought a $7 thermostat at autozone. Never again.

The way I look at it, you bought a Toyota for a reason. You start replacing it with non-Toyota parts, and you're taking a step in the wrong direction.

 

[freshley]

I know when I changed mine out around 200k it still had the factory one in and was working well but I changed the hoses and used dayco hoses and gates thermostat. Well, the hoses never fit as they should and the thermostat was like half the weight as the toyota one. Six months late I switched them all to factory parts when I changed the timing belt. I never had a feeling like it was going to last as long as the factory parts and wasn't worth the trouble. I've learned that as long as you can buy toyota parts without paying full retail, it's worth the little extra.