Back to the board for some more input...
Replaced rotors and pads on my 91 Runner. After looking at the inspection report and the measurements, I decided to replace the drums as well. Plenty of pad left on the shoes, so I decided to leave the rr brakes alone.
Set the emergency brake several times according to the manual to readjust the rear brakes.
Had to bleed the system due to taking calipers off to change out rotors. Fluid was filthy, and I assumed it was original stuff. Car has 138k miles. Started at the pass side rear, then worked my way forward, including the prop valve above the rear axle.
Pedal still was soft and went to the floor after bleeding a quart and a half of fluid.
I decided the master must be bad, so I replaced that.
Here's where things get weird. I bench bled the master, then installed it and proceeded to re-bleed the system using a hand vacuum pump. Wasn't getting any fluid. So I pull the master and re-bleed, re-install, and make sure I'm getting fluid flow before tightening connections at the master. Replaced calipers just for good measure. Now it's gravity feeding to the prop valve. Great. So i get down there and proceed to vacuum pump it to get remaining air out, and it's pulling fluid just fine. Tighten that and go to pass side rr wheel. Try to pull fluid and nothing. Same type scenario happened for the fronts. Make sure I'm getting fluid flow at the master, tighten up both connections, crack the bleeder screw at the caliper and fluid finally starts to flow. Get some air out, then a steady stream of fluid. Go to the other side and do the same thing. Then I pump the pedal and it's mush. (actually I had replaced and bled the calipers before the rear brake problem popped up)
This evening I'm changing out the wheel cylinders and will try bleeding again. If that doesn't do it, I don't know where to go next. All lines look just fine, no bulging hoses, only thing I can think of is maybe the flare connection at the master isn't sealing up right anymore and is somehow sucking air.
Anybody out there have a similar experience, or maybe can share a tip? I felt like a 5-year old in the garage last night, ready to throw the wrench across the room and start screaming.
Took the first master back thinking it was defective and got another (both remanufactured units), same results.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Replaced rotors and pads on my 91 Runner. After looking at the inspection report and the measurements, I decided to replace the drums as well. Plenty of pad left on the shoes, so I decided to leave the rr brakes alone.
Set the emergency brake several times according to the manual to readjust the rear brakes.
Had to bleed the system due to taking calipers off to change out rotors. Fluid was filthy, and I assumed it was original stuff. Car has 138k miles. Started at the pass side rear, then worked my way forward, including the prop valve above the rear axle.
Pedal still was soft and went to the floor after bleeding a quart and a half of fluid.
I decided the master must be bad, so I replaced that.
Here's where things get weird. I bench bled the master, then installed it and proceeded to re-bleed the system using a hand vacuum pump. Wasn't getting any fluid. So I pull the master and re-bleed, re-install, and make sure I'm getting fluid flow before tightening connections at the master. Replaced calipers just for good measure. Now it's gravity feeding to the prop valve. Great. So i get down there and proceed to vacuum pump it to get remaining air out, and it's pulling fluid just fine. Tighten that and go to pass side rr wheel. Try to pull fluid and nothing. Same type scenario happened for the fronts. Make sure I'm getting fluid flow at the master, tighten up both connections, crack the bleeder screw at the caliper and fluid finally starts to flow. Get some air out, then a steady stream of fluid. Go to the other side and do the same thing. Then I pump the pedal and it's mush. (actually I had replaced and bled the calipers before the rear brake problem popped up)
This evening I'm changing out the wheel cylinders and will try bleeding again. If that doesn't do it, I don't know where to go next. All lines look just fine, no bulging hoses, only thing I can think of is maybe the flare connection at the master isn't sealing up right anymore and is somehow sucking air.
Anybody out there have a similar experience, or maybe can share a tip? I felt like a 5-year old in the garage last night, ready to throw the wrench across the room and start screaming.
Took the first master back thinking it was defective and got another (both remanufactured units), same results.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
