Cheap CVs for Manual Hub Users

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Managed to ge a couple of OEM rebuilts from the Toyota dealer for only a little over $100 this spring. It just seems to take them a while to come up with them.

Then I gave them ADD cores (told them, they were good with it), so I didn't really help the supply. I converted my '99 to manual hubs and kept the old manual shafts as spares and returned the removed ADD shafts.
 
Managed to ge a couple of OEM rebuilts from the Toyota dealer for only a little over $100 this spring. It just seems to take them a while to come up with them.

Then I gave them ADD cores (told them, they were good with it), so I didn't really help the supply. I converted my '99 to manual hubs and kept the old manual shafts as spares and returned the removed ADD shafts.
I have a pair of ADD shafts I'd be willing to trade in for factory refurbished manual shafts. How long did you wait for axles from the dealer?

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It was almost 3 months after initially ordering the pair (to be clear, a bit over $100 apiece). Drove uip to the dealer ship and inspected thme. One was a manual shaft, one was an ADD shaft. Gave that one back and it was only about 2 or 3 weeks that time.
 
It was almost 3 months after initially ordering the pair (to be clear, a bit over $100 apiece). Drove uip to the dealer ship and inspected thme. One was a manual shaft, one was an ADD shaft. Gave that one back and it was only about 2 or 3 weeks that time.
What PN did you order from the the dealership?

I looked up 43430-04010-84 but they seem randomly available, some dealers can get them, some can't. These are well over $200 each w/$75 core charge...
 
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I;d have to ask my wife, she sniffed out that bargain. At the time, she said most of the normal parts sources were significantly more, but she found one dealer that was showing a lower price and ordered two of the ASAP.

I'd have just put new OEM boots on my donor shafts, the felt pretty good, just rusty in the middle and some tired (but not leaking) boots. But for the price she found them at, couldn't resist.

I wasn't waiting on the shafts for 3 months to do the swap, I had issues with finding a machine shop to redo the hubs (new bearings and putting them into ABS uprights). First machine shop wasn't busy, but after 2 weeks called to say they couldn't get them to come apart. Second shop GET STUFF DONE but as a result they're always way backed up with work, so a couple of months of waiting for them to get it done.
 
I can get dealer rebuilds for $113 but with a $75 core charge and I have to send the same core back, not add for manual

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Different dealership, they aren't available where I got them, but
1995-2000 Toyota Tacoma Axle Assembly Tacoma 43430-04010-84 | McGeorge Toyota Parts

I was surprised the shop I bought our set from were okay with the cv shafts we used as cores. Their logic was that the core values were the same between the two.

I ordered the set for $110 each w/$75 core Feb 23, it took patience but we had the time to wait. The guys there did a great job keeping me updated.

For what it's worth, manual hub cv reboot pn 04438-04021
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 122 - YotaTech Forums
p5287190_zpsd4c1gnui_707ca627850cfa0e3b332a1ed44f3f7580003a27.jpg
 
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For what it's worth, manual hub cv reboot pn 04438-04021

I found the remans around the same price, thanks for validating the PN, and for the book kit PN!

Anyone with rebuildable cores that would be willing to sell one or more?
 
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I found the remans around the same price, thanks for validating the PN, and for the book kit PN!

Anyone with rebuildable cores that would be willing to sell one or more?

VIN: 4TAWM72N7WZ008757

when I lifted my spindles + CV axles out of the junk yard I took a pict of the VIN from the taco who donated.

4343004010 RZN161,171,VZN160,170..DLX
4343004020 RZN161,171,VZN160,170..DLX W(A.D.D)

Now the real challenge is can you find the studs?

9011608383 BOLT, STUD (FOR FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT FLANGE),RH/LH
 
VIN: 4TAWM72N7WZ008757



when I lifted my spindles + CV axles out of the junk yard I took a pict of the VIN from the taco who donated.



4343004010RZN161,171,VZN160,170..DLX

4343004020RZN161,171,VZN160,170..DLX W(A.D.D)



Now the real challenge is can you find the studs?



9011608383 BOLT, STUD (FOR FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT FLANGE),RH/LH
Thanks, Andy!
Great info to have

The retaining bolts with captive washer along with the snap rings, studs, conical washers are available at ORS. You can see them in this link, and picture below

"Aisin Hub Lockout Kit - Products" Aisin Hub Lockout Kit - Products - Off Road Solutions
52f90de7bd29001884bbc1276be3c178.jpg


The stud PN is 90080-11282

Give them a call, tell them what you need and they'll put together an order for you with all the individual parts you want, they just don't have them listed on their website for purchase, but they have them. The studs they carry are the correct length, but they are not Toyota oem, they are aftermarket and they are the correct.

Yotamasters also sells a stud kit* for the locking hubs that comes with conical washers lock washers and nuts. They also sell the gaskets for the base and the locking cap.

"Hub Stud Kit FJ40 / FJ60 / FJ80 / Truck / 4Runner (Japan)" Hub Stud Kit FJ40 / FJ60 / FJ80 / Truck / 4Runner (Japan) - Yotamasters

*I haven't validated it but it's been suggested by several people that the studs in this kit are LC studs and are too long.

"Genuine Toyota[emoji2400] Locking Hub Gaskets" Genuine Toyota(R) Locking Hub Gaskets - Yotamasters

"Genuine Toyota[emoji2400] Locking Hub Gaskets" Genuine Toyota(R) Locking Hub Gaskets - Yotamasters

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Those springy cone washers are a PITA to remove, especially when they've been stuck in there for a couple of decades. Mangled all of mine to some extent, and some to a greater extent. And found they're more expensive than I would have thought, IIRC something like 4 or 5 bucks a piece? So I got half a set, and replaced the worst ones, reused the best.

I mostly just took them apart, cleaned all the ancient solidified grease out, and replaced the o-ring on the handle since it was dried and shrunken.

Watch out for the little ball bearing and spring in that handle when disassembling - unless it's stuck in there with dried grease it might pop out and roll off into an alternate dimension. And other than that, take some pics of how the big springs are seated on the handle and locking gizmo, those are a bit unintuitive/quirky in the way they fit together.
 
Those springy cone washers are a PITA to remove, especially when they've been stuck in there for a couple of decades. Mangled all of mine to some extent, and some to a greater extent. And found they're more expensive than I would have thought, IIRC something like 4 or 5 bucks a piece? So I got half a set, and replaced the worst ones, reused the best.

Put a nut on the stud (to not mushroom the stud)
Brass drift
3# sledge

Takes 5 or 6 good whacks and the cone washer will pop out

Grease or antisieze before reinstalling

Watch out for the little ball bearing and spring in that handle when disassembling - unless it's stuck in there with dried grease it might pop out and roll off into an alternate dimension. And other than that, take some pics of how the big springs are seated on the handle and locking gizmo, those are a bit unintuitive/quirky in the way they fit together.

Take the locking cap and dial apart inside a big ziplock bag. An ultrasonic cleaner filled with simple green makes cleaning up all those small parts effortless.

The spring really only fits/works one way so a little quality time will make it all clear. Use some good white lithium grease when reassembling, especially the spring and ball cannon. Turns like butter.
 
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