Clanking Noise coming from Rear Wheel

flsurf

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UPDATE: Took me a littler longer to get to it but I finally had a day to go through the major PITA of tearing apart my parking brake and replacing the springs and retainers. I did find that one shoe the spring broke the retainer and the other side was a little bent. BUT, that did not stop the clanking noise Im getting. I also noticed that it seemed a little hard to turn the tire while I had it up. So I started the truck and put it drive and just let it idle. The passenger wheel spins freely no problem no noises, but the drivers will start spinning then stop, and when it is spinning there is that clanking noise. It seems like it would be a seized caliper but the caliper came off easy and I couldn’t tell for sure but it sounded like the noise might of been there when slowly spinning the wheel hub with the caliper and rotor off. Not really sure? Could this be a wheel bearing or something in the diff? There isn’t any play in the tire. https://youtu.be/PnxV8ji3Qjc


Getting a weird clanking noise from my Drivers rear wheel. I cross rotated my tires about 2 weeks ago which Im not sure if It it was there before that but definitely wasn’t as loud. I jacked it up today and it looks like the caliper is frozen on that wheel, but the sound does not seem like a frozen caliper. Does not change with speed just gets louder at about 15-30mph then can’t hear it much after 50mph.

Could it be a wheel bearing? No play when jacked up. You can hear it the clip, sounds like keys or something?
YouTube
 
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Getting a weird clanking noise from my Drivers rear wheel. I cross rotated my tires about 2 weeks ago which Im not sure if It it was there before that but definitely wasn’t as loud. I jacked it up today and it looks like the caliper is frozen on that wheel, but the sound does not seem like a frozen caliper. Does not change with speed just gets louder at about 15-30mph then can’t hear it much after 50mph.

Could it be a wheel bearing? No play when jacked up. You can hear it the clip, sounds like keys or something?
YouTube

Sounds like it could be one of the spring and retainers holding the e-brake shoe/s in place has come loose and rattling around inside the drum part of the rotor.

before tearing anything apart look on the back side of the e-brake mounting plate/dust shield and see if you can see the back/head of the pins for the retainers and see if one of them appears to be loose.
 
Ill go under there and look when I get home, but I did check my parking brake when I had it jacked up and tested it on a hill and worked great.
 
Ill go under there and look when I get home, but I did check my parking brake when I had it jacked up and tested it on a hill and worked great.

Just because it works doesn't mean that it isn't causing the noise. The pins have a tendency to get bent straight by the springs on them and then contact the back side of the axle shaft flange
 
Just took a look under there didn’t take the tire off though. Not sure exactly what the e-brake pins are, but I didn’t see anything loose. Im thinking you meant I need to take the tire and rotor off then look at the pins?
 
You aren't using 5th gen rear rotors are you??? People say they work, but they 100% do NOT

Only in the front, its been over a year and no problems. I jacked the rear back up and really tried to see any play and nothing solid. But the drivers side wheel is sticking, If I put it in Drive and just let it idle it will spin for about 30 seconds then slowly slow down and stop. If I press and release the brakes it will start spinning again then slow down and come to a stop.
 
Only in the front, its been over a year and no problems. I jacked the rear back up and really tried to see any play and nothing solid. But the drivers side wheel is sticking, If I put it in Drive and just let it idle it will spin for about 30 seconds then slowly slow down and stop. If I press and release the brakes it will start spinning again then slow down and come to a stop.

When it does this, what exactly do you have on it? Caliper? Rotor? Neither?
 
When I just did it I didn’t take anything off, but Im going to go back and take everything off and try it again. When I took the caliper off yesterday it came off no problem and I was able to easily compress the piston in to put it back on. Thats why I figured it was the parking brake the whole time but now thats fixed time to look again.
 
When I just did it I didn’t take anything off, but Im going to go back and take everything off and try it again. When I took the caliper off yesterday it came off no problem and I was able to easily compress the piston in to put it back on. Thats why I figured it was the parking brake the whole time but now thats fixed time to look again.

Yeah, you need to have nothing on that corner at all. Keep in mind when the caliper comes off that if you hit the brakes the piston will pop out. You'll need to put some kind of block in there to keep it at least semi-compressed.

If the noise isn't there with nothing on, then slowly add parts to see what the issues is. My guess is still the ebrake or something related to it are still contacting with the drum inside of the rotor. This same type of thing happened to me. Super frustrating. Idiotic system if you ask me. The clearances are way too tight.
 
If one side turns freely and one side doesn't it probably just need an adjustment. Also, you want to try to adjust them so they catch at the same with with the same amount of force.
 
Yeah, you need to have nothing on that corner at all. Keep in mind when the caliper comes off that if you hit the brakes the piston will pop out. You'll need to put some kind of block in there to keep it at least semi-compressed.

If the noise isn't there with nothing on, then slowly add parts to see what the issues is. My guess is still the ebrake or something related to it are still contacting with the drum inside of the rotor. This same type of thing happened to me. Super frustrating. Idiotic system if you ask me. The clearances are way too tight.

I was looking at a different thread about something similar. The FSM recommends drawing a chalk line on the drum portion inside the rotor. Put the rotor back on and spin the axle and you'll get a chalk mark on the parking shoes if some part of them is hitting the drum.
 
Yea really can’t believe this is what Toyota came up with. Wasn’t able to get back out there it started to rain, but going to take everything off tomorrow and inspect. The chalk idea is good, going to give that a try as well.
 
Anybody have any recommendations on replacing the wheel bearings? I called toyota and they quoted $467 each side, but said that it is the bearing already pressed into the hub that it would be a bolt off bolt on job? I thought the bearing and hub was bolted on the the axle housing but pressed onto the axle shaft?
 
Anybody have any recommendations on replacing the wheel bearings? I called toyota and they quoted $467 each side, but said that it is the bearing already pressed into the hub that it would be a bolt off bolt on job? I thought the bearing and hub was bolted on the the axle housing but pressed onto the axle shaft?

That's how my front wheel bearing sounded when it failed a couple weeks ago. Like the truck is chewing gravel.

I found these videos recently, but I'm not sure how accurate they are for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua8H0f7X3og
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJE35juQWM8

The second one appears to be for an older Tacoma with drum brakes, but both show a pressed in bearing that you have to press out.

**Edit to add that if you look in the FSM under the Drive Shaft section, there is a file for doing what those videos show. I looked on RockAuto and don't see any hub assemblies for the rear that would be bolt off/bolt on like the front.
 
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