Cleand throttle body, won't run. Help!!

canadianrunner

canadianrunner

New member
I know its normal for the truck to not want to run when throttle body cleaner is used. But for how long will this last, can barely keep ir running, sputtering and backfiring like crazy, shut it off, now won't even start...
I had the intake removed, clean the thr body, opened the valve manually sprayed inside. reinstalled air intake and no worky...
I know on my 240 i had to keep it running while i did all this and keep it from stalling, is that the case with these too...
Any help would be great...
 
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i did have it running for over 5 minutes with my foot in it at almost 3000rpms...
i had to boost it up with the gf's exploder to get it going...
im just letting it sit for a while now, hoping its just too much and will basically evaporate, also the check engine light is flashing now, im sure it threw a code...

just give it a while? try again later?
 
Did you use dual ground plugs gapped correctly? Also what kind of wires? Double check you hooked up vaccum lines. Did you remove the whole intake? Hook maf back up?
 
yup NGK dbl grd plugs, NGK wires.
never removed the MAF took the intake off from the downstream side of MAF...
all lines and hoses are back where they were... Did the ISR at the same time too if that changes anything, but Im pretty mechanical and the two lines are plumbed back into the intake so that shouldnt effect it...
im going go go back out and give er another crank see what happens...
 
Could be a few things, you sure you wired the plug wires correctly? Ive never had an issue with cleaning the throttle body, but i know that ****ing with the wires without knowing the firing order is not good.
 
You sure they gave you the right plugs? I'd go oem on plugs they're still cheap from a dealership. I work at one so I get discount but it was like 11 bucks. That's doesn't sound like a problem from cleaning tb more of plugs and wires. You sure you put the wires back in corrext firing order? Vacuum leak from isr not tight enough?
 
The sh*t plugs won't cause this issue, it will just have a little worse power, but it will certainly run without issue.
 
well theres only the 3 wires so its pretty hard to screw that up, im wondering now if a coil got damaged when taking them off, everything was feeling pretty brittle...
Its dark now so i cant check anything, I really dont want to take all the plugs out again, thats a huge PITA as im sure youre all aware of on these trucks...
I also work at a dealership too conicidently...
I've run NGK's before and never had problems with them... its when you really cheap out and get crap when you have problems...
i guess ill just to re-check everything tomorrow...

vacum leak wouldnt cause the back firing i wouldnt think...?
 
canadianrunner said:
well theres only the 3 wires so its pretty hard to screw that up, im wondering now if a coil got damaged when taking them off, everything was feeling pretty brittle...
Its dark now so i cant check anything, I really dont want to take all the plugs out again, thats a huge PITA as im sure youre all aware of on these trucks...
I also work at a dealership too conicidently...
I've run NGK's before and never had problems with them... its when you really cheap out and get crap when you have problems...
i guess ill just to re-check everything tomorrow...

vacum leak wouldnt cause the back firing i wouldnt think...?
Click to expand...

You'd be surprised. Several have managed to misroute the wires. It certainly is worth checking again. A slipup here WILL cause backfiring.

64398d1337227175-need-help-spark-plug_wires-zcruiser.jpg


It's certainly NOT the NGK's. They ARE OEM, these trucks came off the line with NGK's on one side and Denso's on the other. The fact the US dealers only sell Denso doesn't make them less OEM. I have used the NGK double-grounds (BKR5EKB-11 Stock#3967) for 120k miles with no problem. Also, the Denso wires sold by the dealer are NOT OEM; OEM were Sumitomo's (they had the year on the cables). I run the NGK's and they are fine.

I'd also pull the code if you have a flashing MIL. It's probably a P030x, and the x (or x's) will be a big clue.
 
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yes NGKS came out, NGKS back in... if it aint broke dont fix it
also the orig wires 1996 right on didnt them haha..
Im going to go over everything again
 
I was so sure I had it right, but when I saw that wiring diagram a light went off in my head...
Im almost embarrased to admit it was indeed the firing order... I know better than that... feel stupid now but its all good...
thanks guys

well today turned out to be productive;
clear siganls and corners done
TB cleaned
ISR done
wires...
plugs (which i wasnt looking forward to)
and a new PCV since I was in the neighborhood...

and got first tracks snowboarding opening day today to top it all off
 
Reading the first page I was about to say... double check your work. being a mechanic you know it can happen ;). glad you figured it out though.
 
Backfiring is usually only caused by some kind of timing issue (eg., plug wires crossed, time 180 degrees out, timing has slipped a notch, etc...). The only thing you changed is the wires... I know you said they are good, but that's only thing I can think of...

I've gotten check engine light while cleaning the intake...the cleaner along with all the dirt and crud goes pass the O2 sensor. Sometimes this will interfere with the sensor, thus setting off the check engine light. Once everything is burned out of the system...I just clear the code and have no further problems.

Hopefully things will go well in the morning...good luck!
 
I forgot to hit the send button...after I finally did I see you got it. I glad it was an easy fix...
 
I made the mistake a few years ago of pulling the wires off and throwing them out, at the beginning, and i got to spend hours on the internet looking for that diagram "thedurk" posted. Glad you figured it out.
 
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