I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but for drying towels nothing beats dry me crazy from microfiber madness, this towel is amazing. Also a electric leaf blower helps a lot with drying time and especially with getting water out of the nooks and crannies. If you have trouble with water spots, take to the car with a detail spray and microfiber cloth mmediately after drying and those spots will disappear. If you have really bad water spots that won't come out, get a bottle of carpro spotless, stuff is magic for removing spots.
Cleaning Your Car
- Thread starter Thai
- Start date
Never had my electric leaf blower leave dust on my car, always spotless when I'm done. The less contact with the paint you make the better, even that squeegee has the potential to scratch the paint, you are better off with a large drying towel like the Dry me Crazy. I learned the hard way on my black camaro with ridiculously soft paint.
Attachments
honeybadger65
New member
Very good info thanks
ExploreABitMore
New member
Hello, was going to start a thread on this, but forum wouldn't let me for some reason. Hopefully, somebody sees it here!
Just curious what folks are using to clean and take care of the Soft-Tek seats in the latest premium model 4Runners. Guess they are basically "synthetic" leather. Does a regular leather cleaner work for these too? Or is there another product that would be better.
Thanks for any info!
Just curious what folks are using to clean and take care of the Soft-Tek seats in the latest premium model 4Runners. Guess they are basically "synthetic" leather. Does a regular leather cleaner work for these too? Or is there another product that would be better.
Thanks for any info!
ExploreABitMore
New member
Thanks!
Proactive damage control
Back in my younger days, I restored several Austin Healeys and Jags. Two went on to concours competition. One annoying and expensive part was smudged over, cruddy dash control knobs. I actually made tiny cloth covers for them when I was driving them. Flash forward. Now, in all of my vehicles, particularly in my baby 06 Limited, i'm always careful to push the unpainted portion of the knobs to preserve the white lettering. Pretty anal eh ? But the dash looks mint.
Back in my younger days, I restored several Austin Healeys and Jags. Two went on to concours competition. One annoying and expensive part was smudged over, cruddy dash control knobs. I actually made tiny cloth covers for them when I was driving them. Flash forward. Now, in all of my vehicles, particularly in my baby 06 Limited, i'm always careful to push the unpainted portion of the knobs to preserve the white lettering. Pretty anal eh ? But the dash looks mint.
So how often do you really sit down and do a full clean vs just power wash all the dirt off. I plan on going every other weekend or something so it's not really feasible to spend a whole day washing my truck every week. Biggest problem I have, apart from having a black truck, is the water dries out faster that I can get to wash and dry an area here in Phoenix and with the hard water here it spots very easily (black again is tough). Anyone know a good reliable truck detailing place in Phoenix that is good with trucks that like to get real dirty. Also, I have noticed that the inside of the engine compartment gets crazy dirty when I go through mud, it seems like the cooling fan picks it up and slings it everywhere, any solutions to limit that?
arelendsee
New member
I recommend going from least invasive first by using a microfibre dampened with plain water. If that's not enough, then try using a little Neutrogena bar soap (swipe your damp cloth across the bar to pick up a small amount and work the cloth until it suds) to remove the soil. The soap is pH balanced and will not harm or discolor the material. Of course, you have to follow with a soap free damp cloth to remove any residual soap.
I do not use any Detailing Products anywhere in my car's interior - ever. Some of the "cleaners/treatments" actually attack the surface which does effectively remove oxidation, but after exposure to heat and time, the surface will begin to look somewhat melted, less defined and give off a distinctively unpleasant smell. I think you'll know what I mean if you go any used car lot and look (and smell) the inside of a car/truck that's been "treated" with some that famous _______(fill in the blank) detailing product...
Last edited:
sandcrawler
Senior Member
a light touch of 303 Protectant is ok in the interior. but less is more, really.
e60ral
Banned
Leaf blowers ingest ambient air and particles around you and concentrate into stream. It may help drying the car but it also adds dust to clean surface. Use silicone squeegee to remove large water spots.
I owned one of these and quickly threw it away after the first use, drags way too much against the paint
Beaumont67
New member
Great informative thread BTW.
Some times a good car wash is necessary, to properly detail Northern cars & remove ugly sights of 4Sale rust.
Unsightly rust from steel licence plate bolts & iron bleed off / paint damage:
Novus was designed to remove windshield scratches, off Boeing 747's.
- I used bottle #3 containing abrasive grit, to remove rust stains
Loctite Extend (AutoZone can, in above photo) coating on rusted bolt heads, neutralize rust with a phosphate coating.
- after dry time, spray good primer on nut heads / Mar-Hyde single stage self etching primer, is very decent quality
End result - SOLD...:biggrin2:
Some times a good car wash is necessary, to properly detail Northern cars & remove ugly sights of 4Sale rust.
Unsightly rust from steel licence plate bolts & iron bleed off / paint damage:
Novus was designed to remove windshield scratches, off Boeing 747's.
- I used bottle #3 containing abrasive grit, to remove rust stains
Loctite Extend (AutoZone can, in above photo) coating on rusted bolt heads, neutralize rust with a phosphate coating.
- after dry time, spray good primer on nut heads / Mar-Hyde single stage self etching primer, is very decent quality
End result - SOLD...:biggrin2:
Last edited:
aj884runner
New member
Dude! I should send you a pick of my late production 1999 Pathfinder. See what kind of "magic" you can do with the rust on it. BTW, I live near Kitchener, Ontario. Let's just say it is very religious.
Just a little comment on those silicon squeegees. Doesn't matter how clean you think your vehicle is, the squeegees leave tiny scratches in the paint. Still great for windows.
Just a little comment on those silicon squeegees. Doesn't matter how clean you think your vehicle is, the squeegees leave tiny scratches in the paint. Still great for windows.
Beaumont67
New member
aj884runner ^^ Hey Kitchener Buddy, bring it on / I like Nissan's 2 - some clean "Rear End/Ass" shots for you...:biggrin1:
- post up a pic. of your 1999 Pathfinder...lets see what LOVE, she needs
I am self trained in auto body metal fab (rust repair), welding (first learned in HS shop & 2 years at College level) & spray painting (came natural).
- did it every weekend, for 15 years straight, starting when I was in grade12 / while in College & working full time, in Engineering Technology field
Along the way, I learned some secrets in cleaning up rust, and practically stopping it / vehicles I restored, were my DD's (aka guinea pigs).
- and FYI / NO, I never-ever use TremClad cover up temporary enamel...LOL
Currently building a 1200 sq ft garage shop, for auto body sheet metal refinishing, detailing paint work & premium wax-oil spray undercoating jobs.
- located just South of London, ON.
Now the 1989 Nissan Pathfinder I bought used & family driven daily, for 14 years and never garaged / kept Rust Free, all those years.
- it saw lots of salt laid roads, in ON. and sold at 335,000 Km
Just cleaned up & $old (in September) our rust free 2002 Volvo v70 with 297,000 Canadian Km - owned 8 years / still rust free, after 13 years old.
Sons 2008 Nissan Rogue SL, with 172,300 Km - up for sale now / Dad cleaned up exterior paint, with Novus kit...& works excellent as a chrome polish.
- use #3 for removing heavy scratches / and follow up with #2 polish
- use #2 for removing light scratches & general cleanup of oxidized paint / polish-sealer leaves paint, silky smooth
Picking up my pride & joy this week - one owner/original paint 2000 SR5 v6, auto with 129,586 Km / my next detail project, will be an easy one.
- even frame & floor is rust free
Just picked up an extra gallon of Fluid Film, for wax-oil spray undercoating jobs - my 2000 TR4 and sons new 2015 Lexus RX350, next ToDo's.
Last edited:
Modern Color
New member
Not sure if anyone has heard of this, but I had a crazy old man who said he used to detail cars for a living tell me do this to make tire shine.
He said after the tires were scrubbed clean and dry. Mix a Spray bottle with half plastic adhesion promoter and half Armor All spray on and wipe it, supposedly the adhesion promoter grips the side wall of the tire and keeps the armor all on for a long time.
He swore it would work but I haven't tried it yet. I always hated having Armor All slung all over the side of my car.
He may have been on something I dunno.
He said after the tires were scrubbed clean and dry. Mix a Spray bottle with half plastic adhesion promoter and half Armor All spray on and wipe it, supposedly the adhesion promoter grips the side wall of the tire and keeps the armor all on for a long time.
He swore it would work but I haven't tried it yet. I always hated having Armor All slung all over the side of my car.
He may have been on something I dunno.
Rschmidt17
New member
Best place to get info and supplies in my opinion is Chemical guys. They tons of videos and demos. Buy all my stuff from them...
snukkums
New member
Looking good after the snow and grime
Nice looking 4runner. I like to use the regular quick detailer with my clay bar, and the ultimate quick detailer between waxes. It seems to repel the water better, might just me imagining it though since it says ultimate on it though.
