Clemson4r's Mild Build Thread

clemson4r

New member
Hey all,

Figured I’d start a build thread to document the “mild” modifications to my 4runner. I bought a 1996 4runner SR5 from the original owner in Charlotte, NC. My main criteria for this vehicle were 4wd and 5spd. Unfortunately, the horizontal surfaces of the car suffer from peeling clearcoat, but otherwise, the undercarriage and body are straight and 100% rust free. The 4runner had 170k miles on it when I bought it.

I will be moving back to where I grew up in New England next year, and wanted to keep my BMW ZHP as my summer car (obviously). I bought the 4Runner down where I am now for the obvious lack of rust.
When I first bought it:
33157675733.354733024.IM1.MAIN.565x421_A.562x421.jpg

33157675735.354733024.IM1.03.565x421_A.562x421.jpg

33157675736.354733024.IM1.04.565x421_A.562x421.jpg

33157675737.354733024.IM1.05.565x421_A.316x421.jpg

33180016344.354733024.IM1.08.565x421_A.562x421.jpg

The PO informed me that the timing belt was change ~100k miles ago, so that was first of the list. I am a maintenance freak coming from my 8 previous cars being BMW’s.
While doing the timing belt, I replaced all accessory belts and pulleys (including the fan mount) along with plugs, air filter, oil, etc.

Next was suspension. I replaced the upper and lower ball joints, sway bar endlinks, tie rods, shocks, and springs. I’ve also owned a few Jeeps so a lift was necessary. The shocks are Billy 5100’s, Toytec/Eibach front springs, OME 891 rear springs, and a Sonaron adjustable panhard (very glad I did this). Obviously the running boards were removed as well.

For wheels and tires, I went with a 4th gen 4runner set of 16’s with Treadwright Guard Dogs in 265/75 R16.
Before suspension with running boards removed:
IMG_20130928_115436_130.jpg

During install:
IMG_20131023_161033_169.jpg

IMG_20131023_161018_147.jpg

IMG_20131023_161003_656.jpg

IMG_20131024_170218_700.jpg

IMG_20131108_132135_758.jpg

IMG_20131102_110949_037.jpg


As for the interior, the bottoms of the leather seats were trashed so I purchased a set of panels done by “upholsteryguys” on ebay. Kind of a steep price, but 100% worth it. The color was a close match (as close as you can get with a ~17 yr old car. That coupled with the removal of the wood grain trim, OEM floormats, and an OEM stereo with a USA Spec iPod adapter, the interior returned to a close to OEM condition.
IMG_20131205_172009_937.jpg

IMG_20131205_175108_050.jpg

After:
IMG_20131205_175113_635.jpg


Picture of my current BMW for good measure:
2012-12-08_13-15-12_359.jpg


The most recent BMW before the ZHP
004.JPG


Plans for the future include any general maintenance and maybe bumpers. Otherwise, this should prove to be a reliable rig for both daily driving and fun. Only time will tell

Max
 
Register to hide this ad
Haven't updated in quite a while. I have since done a '99+ center console retrofit, CV axle rebuilds, and got the horizontal surfaces that had clear coat peeling repainted. Also picked up a nice surprise.

This:
IMG_20140218_161001_273.jpg

IMG_20140218_160955_101.jpg

IMG_20140218_160948_860.jpg

To this (excuse the pollen):
IMG_20140406_154824_553.jpg

IMG_20140406_154815_458.jpg


A little fun in the 'snowstorm' that happened in SC a couple months ago
IMG_20140212_141022_907.jpg


A combo I just picked up from [MENTION=19769]justinh[/MENTION]
4.30 elocker with front set:
IMG_20140405_185948_347.jpg

IMG_20140405_185932_344.jpg

IMG_20140406_153013_445.jpg

IMG_20140406_153017_885.jpg

IMG_20140406_153112_923.jpg


The elocker setup will be installed soon, then the OEM clutch kit I just purchased will be installed

Max
 
Installed the axles, replaced the clutch with an OEM clutch, TO bearing, pilot bearing, and RMS. Also bled clutch hydraulics while I was there. However, upon installation and initial test drive, the rear axle made a terrible howling sound. I pulled the third member and when I disassembled it, the front pinion bearing had completely failed. There was course grain spalling on all rollers which was causing the noise. So, I installed a full OEM set of carrier bearings and pinion bearings.

While I was in there, I also rebuilt the locker motor. Glad I did as it was very corroded inside and filled with water. Even though the third was rebuilt by ECGS 30,000 miles prior, the previous owner obviously ran the axle pretty hard or with low fluid level....
Pictures of gear pattern:
IMG_20140424_182502_742.jpg

IMG_20140424_182509_814.jpg


Additionally, I got the dash RR Diff Lock indicator light wired into the harness thanks to a thread on here. Even though it was a much more expensive endeavor than I imagined, the 4.30 gearing is much better all around now and the locker is working very well.

Max
 
Very nice! I can't wait to see where this build goes. Keep up the awesome work. I would love to put a rear locker into mine one day.
 
I wasn't in love with the early model, two spoke steering wheel. I sourced a late model 4 spoke wheel with airbag from DeathCougar (great seller). However, the airbag connectors were different between early and late model airbags, I chose to swap out the male plug (clockspring side) with the correct plug from a late model car. I had access to the male connector from the correct clockspring (clockspring had harness cut at junkyard). I soldered, used heat shrink, then electrical tape and more heat shrink to seal it off. The wires into the male plug were yellow and blue in both my early model and the late model I grabbed the plug from. Put it all together and it functions just great. One of the reservations I had in doing this was keeping the overall wire length the same so as not to change resistance. I don't believe it would be this sensitive but I wanted to take as few risks as possible. Either way, on to the pictures. If anyone has any questions about the swap, let me know
IMG_20140606_163429_692.jpg

IMG_20140606_163616_978.jpg

IMG_20140606_163715_751.jpg

IMG_20140606_164931_978.jpg


Additionally today I installed Polk DB6501 component speakers up front and am waiting on a set of DB581's I ordered for the rear along with speaker adapters to fit 5 1/4" coaxials.
Max
 
How much did you pay for your truck to get re clearcoated it came out amazing

Thank you. I have a personal friend who does bodywork and he was able to do it for me for just under $700. However, it isn't just 're-clearing', you actually cannot do that as where the clearcoat peels, there are effectively ledges that cannot truly be smoothed out. As a result, it was a full strip, prime, paint, and clear process.

Max
 
Truck looks good, I do have to say I'm partial to your white bimmer haha. How do the polks sound? I've been looking at redoing my speaker setup for a while now.
 
Truck looks good, I do have to say I'm partial to your white bimmer haha. How do the polks sound? I've been looking at redoing my speaker setup for a while now.

Thanks for the compliments. The white e30 I posted here was a nice car. I had 3 white e30's and that was probably my favorite because of the condition of the body itself.
As far as the Polks go, they sound very good even on the stock headunit and amp setup (my biggest concern because I hate aftermarket headunits). We will see how it sounds when the 5 1/4" Polks out back when I get my adapter/spacers.

Max
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top