clunking noise in the rear end

[DougR]

Your ID and OD measurements on the bushing sleeve look good. Clearance is needed so that the shock can be removed when rust is present.

If the shock bushing sleeve was tightly clamped, I would have expected less rust on the clamped ends of the sleeve. Looking at the photos, it appears there is no clamping force on the passenger side and light clamping force on the drivers side. I suspect the passenger side was clunking and drivers side either less clunking or not clunking at all.

Measure overall length of the shock bushing metal sleeves. The sleeves on my shocks measure 1.785 inches.

Use the depth rod to measure the length of the shank on which shock is mounted. This measurement should be a little bit less than the bushing sleeve overall length in order to produce a clamping force on the bushing sleeve.

Post images of both shock mount bolts showing the portions that clamp against the shock bushing sleeve. I want to see how the load bearing surfaces are machined. When the bolt is tightened, the clamping surface must bear down on the shock bushing sleeve, and not touch the shock mount shank.

Post photos of the shock mount shanks, focusing on the area of the differential bracket, to see if there is excessive wear on the clamping surfaces in that location.

 

[Bonniem]

Your ID and OD measurements on the bushing sleeve look good. Clearance is needed so that the shock can be removed when rust is present.

If the shock bushing sleeve was tightly clamped, I would have expected less rust on the clamped ends of the sleeve. Looking at the photos, it appears there is no clamping force on the passenger side and light clamping force on the drivers side. I suspect the passenger side was clunking and drivers side either less clunking or not clunking at all.

Measure overall length of the shock bushing metal sleeves. The sleeves on my shocks measure 1.785 inches.

Use the depth rod to measure the length of the shank on which shock is mounted. This measurement should be a little bit less than the bushing sleeve overall length in order to produce a clamping force on the bushing sleeve.

Post images of both shock mount bolts showing the portions that clamp against the shock bushing sleeve. I want to see how the load bearing surfaces are machined. When the bolt is tightened, the clamping surface must bear down on the shock bushing sleeve, and not touch the shock mount shank.

Post photos of the shock mount shanks, focusing on the area of the differential bracket, to see if there is excessive wear on the clamping surfaces in that location.

DougR, I just updated my photos as they were taken not to confuse you. The first 4 pics I took while working on driver side. Than mounted everything back and start passenger side another 4 pics, Just don’t want to confuse you with readings. But the loose shock was at the driver side.
Will take more measurements tomorrow.
Thanks

 

[Bonniem]

DougR, I just updated my photos as they were taken not to confuse you. The first 4 pics I took while working on driver side. Than mounted everything back and start passenger side another 4 pics, Just don’t want to confuse you with readings. But the loose shock was at the driver side.
Will take more measurements tomorrow.
Thanks

I did measurements on both sides of the shock as pictured

 

[Bonniem]

If the bracket is slightly worn and the bearing surface still smooth, consider taking up the slack using a thin washer on the bolt head side. First step, identify what part(s) are either worn and/or out of spec. Then decide the best means to repair. What is the gap? 0.010 ins? 0.020 ins? More? One side? Both sides? Must also verify bolt and bracket threads are still OK.

I’ve got some new pics today. I also rotate the driver shock and test drove again and notice less clunking nose but it was still there. I tried washer it helps a little bit but did not fixed the problem. I’m feeling new shock will be next

 

[Bonniem]

I’ve got some new pics today. I also rotate the driver shock and test drove again and notice less clunking nose but it was still there. I tried washer it helps a little bit but did not fixed the problem. I’m feeling new shock will be next

Some more

 

[DougR]

The noise occurs because the shock bushing sleeve is not long enough. Clearance is about 0.022 inches, which is enough to cause a rattle. I'm wondering if the clunking sound began shortly after the shocks were installed. How long have you had the shocks?

This is how I would fix it. Make two washers out of stainless steel shim stock, 0.025 ins thick. Inner diameter 0.75 inches. Outer diameter 1.250 ins. Shim stock could be up to 0.030 thick. It has to be thick enough so that the retaining bolt contacts the shock bushing sleeve and exerts an axial load.

Install as follows: First, shim washers on the shank, followed by the shock and then the retaining bolt.

 

[Bonniem]

I have these shocks for a little over 2 years and drove like 15000 mile with a few not crazy off road trips that all. I noticed clunking about 1 or 2 month’s ago and didn’t pay much attention to it.

 

[Bonniem]

I will still disassemble one shock at the time and drive the truck to make sure it’s really related to bottom shock mountings and than do as you recommend.
Thanks

 

[DougR]

I will still disassemble one shock at the time and drive the truck to make sure it’s really related to bottom shock mountings and than do as you recommend.
Thanks

Yes, that would be a reasonable action.

After you identify short sleeves as the root cause of the clunking, you could attempt to make a warranty claim on the basis of a manufacturing defect. The 1.766 and 1.769 measurements along with a link to the YouTube video may be acceptable to Bilstein to authorize replacement. Tell them a stock shock measures 1.785 ins. Did you buy the shocks and install them yourself? If a shop installed them, then the shop would have to evaluate the shocks and make a warranty claim.

Bilstein will have to look up the minimum to maximum dimension and verify that your sleeves are out of spec and the part number is correct for your application. Here's a link to Bilstein warranty claims Warranty - BILSTEIN

The warranty is 5 years. I think Bilstein or the shop will want a copy of your receipt to verify the correct shock part number was installed. It would be interesting to have their thoughts on this issue even if they deny a claim.

I'm still wondering why 2 years elapsed without the shocks making noise. I cannot move my Bilstein shocks because they are tightly clamped on the bushing sleeve by the retaining bolts. If a shop installed the shocks, perhaps they noticed the gap and installed something to take up the slack and it wore out and fell off? Did you install the shocks?

 

[Bonniem]

Me and buddy did the shocks, I can only blame ourselves. Does it matter which side of the bottom shock goes on a sleeve first or it doesn’t matter.

 

[DougR]

Me and buddy did the shocks, I can only blame ourselves. Does it matter which side of the bottom shock goes on a sleeve first or it doesn’t matter.

It doesn't matter which side is installed first. It's symmetrical.

 

[Bonniem]

DougR I did exactly as you devised except I couldn't make 0.250 inch shim so I did 0.500 and it worked. You saved me $200 min for new shocks. I drove it after and its day and night difference inside cabin don't here anything. Ill post a link after fix.
I will save you as a suspension adviser. )

 

[Bonniem]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6xcQ05IQzo
Thanks again.

 

[DougR]

... I couldn't make 0.250 inch shim so I did 0.500 and it worked. You saved me $200 ...

You're Welcome! Just to be clear, in case someone else uses this fix ... you installed a 0.050 ins shim, not 0.500 ins as shown in the photo ... so, you're good

I suggest one more thing to do. In one month, recheck the bolts to make sure they are still properly tight and you are good to go with a quiet ride. You have washers on both sides clamping the shocks, so recheck to make sure the bolts remained tight. I'm expecting the bolts will still be tight a month from now.

 

[Bonniem]

Yes a 0.050 inch shim, that was the thinner shim I found in Home Depot

 

[CutthroatSlam]

My rear shock are Bilstein 5100 Series, not sure if i want to go with the same one, it lasted 15k at least one.

Your Bilstein 5100 did not wear out at 15K miles. Your bushing sleeve wore out from improper torque setting on the bolt. Add an appropriately sized washer on each side to take up the looseness and you’re good.

Sorry I was posting to response on page 1 and did not see reply above.

 

[DougR]

Add an appropriately sized washer on each side to take up the looseness and you’re good.

I recommended adding a shim (washer) to the differential side and not the bolt side. The retaining bolt already has a captured washer. Adding a 0.75 ins ID shim on the differential side such that thickness of the shim plus length of sleeve is a little bit longer than the shank it fits on is sufficient.

Adding another washer on the bolt side requires using a washer with a different size ID to make sure it remains properly piloted on the bolt during installation. A extra washer on the bolt side will not help if the shim on the differential side is not thick enough. The captured washer might be worn, however, it's thick and very little to no wear is noticeable on one of the posted images.

 

[Bonniem]

Yep, I remember the guy was using 36v impact driver for all bolts and nuts during my lift kit installation. If i only knew that everything has to be torque up to specs that day I may not have this problem today. Everything comes with experience.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

Yep, I remember the guy was using 36v impact driver for all bolts and nuts during my lift kit installation. If i only knew that everything has to be torque up to specs that day I may not have this problem today. Everything comes with experience.

No worries, after 252K miles on my wife’s 2014 SR5, I finally stripped a front hole on the front skid plate and cross the threaded a rear bolt. She had gone 2K miles over the normal change interval because she was down in SoCal getting injections done on her right shoulder. Myself, I had lithotripsy procedure yesterday to break up kidney stones. I’m peeing blood (expected) and going every hour, but I had to squeeze in this oil change. Should have done the studs and nuts conversion in the other thread. Now I will have to do that.

 

[88Center]

OP I wish the vids were still up. I might have a similar problem and it would help a lot to be able to compare.

I have 5100s.