Clutch issues

Beanzermin

New member
Ok so I drove to work this morning with no problems. I get off work and about 1/2 way home I grinded first gear. Thought it was kind of odd because the clutch was definitely pressed. It gets real hard to shift after this. About 3/4 of the way home I get stuck at a light. Can't get it into gear. So I press the clutch start cancel button and speed shift it the rest of the way home. I got underneath it and checked the slave by pulling the boot off. No fluid dropped out. I checked the master. No fluid in the engine bay. So I get under the dash and check the pedal box. Doesn't look broken to me. What I did notice though is that the clutch does slightly grab when I use the CSC button. The truck will slowly move forward immediatley after i start it and after releasing the clutch move just a wee but faster. I'm just not getting enough pressure to the clutch it seems. The clutch pedal does come back to its normal place after i release it. Could it be the sign of a bad pressure plate? I've never had any issues with the clutch slipping. But usually the clutch has to be on the floor before it will engage.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
My comprehension of the last few sentences is almost none, so I wont comment on that. I will say the clutch start cancel has no mechanical or fluid link to your clutch, and is only there for you to start the vehicle without the pedal depressed. I'll try reading again after I wake up. :D
 
What I mean is the clutch pedal has some pressure, just not enough to fully engage it. I understand the CSC button has no link to the clutch. That's what saved me from a tow. The clutch does have slight pressure just very weak
 
Sounds like you're going to need to replace the clutch and pressure plate. If fluid level is correct, with no leaks in the system, there isn't much more to go wrong.
 
Master cylinder

8y6emagu.jpg

8arezu4e.jpg


Pedal box

aqybe8e5.jpg
 
^ Is the joint on that last picture, of the rod going between the pedal and the master, solid? Ive seen those fail, so when you push in the clutch, the rod just bends.
 
Use a pry bar on the fork it itself. Engage the clutch as the slave would, while having a assistant shift the transmission.

Than you'll now if the slave/master is working or not.
 
Hydraulics

The clutch on a toyota is one of the many mysteries of the universe...... No it's not hard at all. Cheapest fix is to drain the fluid and put new in it. Now the majority of people have no idea what type of fluid go into it. Brake fluid is not the right answer. Yes I know they live right next to each other but not the same stuff. Power steering fluid is perfect. Once you've drained all the fluid out, get a buddy with some coordination to help. From here it's a lot like bleeding brakes accept when bleeding the clutch you only break open the bleeder on the slave cylinder for a moment. Your friend holds the clutch much like a brake, you break open the slave bleeder for just a moment before the clutch looses pressure to insure air doesn't enter the system. continue until no air comes out and you should have clutch. If not and it's the same jazz, first thing to replace is the master cylinder.
 
The clutch on a toyota is one of the many mysteries of the universe...... No it's not hard at all. Cheapest fix is to drain the fluid and put new in it. Now the majority of people have no idea what type of fluid go into it. Brake fluid is not the right answer. Yes I know they live right next to each other but not the same stuff. Power steering fluid is perfect. Once you've drained all the fluid out, get a buddy with some coordination to help. From here it's a lot like bleeding brakes accept when bleeding the clutch you only break open the bleeder on the slave cylinder for a moment. Your friend holds the clutch much like a brake, you break open the slave bleeder for just a moment before the clutch looses pressure to insure air doesn't enter the system. continue until no air comes out and you should have clutch. If not and it's the same jazz, first thing to replace is the master cylinder.

uh, no it uses brake fluid. using atf, or power steering fluid will quickly ruin it.
 
I'm an idiot! Last night when I was checking my pedal box I was looking for a crack or a seperation. I didn't see either one. My mechanic got it checked to see if the slave was good and didn't see any movement when the clutch was pressed. He got under the dash and played with the pedal and saw that it was indeed broke. Threw a weld in there and now my clutch feels better then it ever has. Thanks for all the replies and hints. It was the broken pedal box

avejemag.jpg
 
ypadebad.jpg


That didn't last long. Anyone know where to get a replacement pedal box? Toyota wants $300. Is there anyone else who sells one that's a bit stronger or a little more beefy? I don't mind the price but if I'm going to go through the work I'd like it to never be an issue again. Top of the pic you can see it broke in a different pace now.
 
Get one from a junkyard, and you can probably throw a gusset in it while it is out of your truck.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,305
Messages
3,554,041
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top