brocktice
New member
Hi guys, it's been a while as I've been busy with work and the truck had been running smoothly. A while back I finally decided to get my chronic oil leak fixed and had the valve cover gaskets done (been too busy to do it myself). Leak was still there. Later I had the rear main seal done. Since my synchros were pretty worn, I decided to put a rebuilt transmission in from Marlin Crawler while the transmission was being dropped, for a minimal extra labor cost.
Rear main seal didn't fix the leak, but the truck shifted great. They put in the rebuilt transmission and a new clutch kit, plus resurfaced the flywheel. Oil still leaking. Fast forward about a month and a half and I notice my heat's not working, engine temp skyrocketing. Pulled over and steam pouring out. Had it towed to the nearest shop, which has done good work for me before but didn't do the transmission, and the shop said the water pump failed and then the head gasket blew.
OK, this is an old engine, I replaced the rod bearings last year, the labor for a swap is less than a head gasket job, so I had a rebuilt engine with a great warranty put in. When I picked it up, though, I had trouble shifting in and out of gear from a stop. When rolling, no problem.
I took it back to the shop. They said it was the slave cylinder. OK, my clutch fluid is pretty dark, I buy it, they replace that. Doesn't fix it. Replaced a hydraulic line with a hole in it from rubbing against another part. Doesn't fix it.
Now they're telling me they're stumped and called a friend at the local Toyota dealership, who told them if the flywheel was resurfaced and the clutch isn't disengaging the flywheel should have been shimmed when it was resurfaced. Original transmission shop says it wasn't shimmed because it is stepped, and only if a whole lot of material is removed is a shim necessary, which wasn't the case. I buy this because the thing shifted fine after the transmission and clutch job.
Bottom line I've got the engine swap shop telling me they need to drop the transmission, which is beaucoup more $$$, and I think it's their fault from screwing something up with the engine swap.
I'm a really busy guy with two jobs and I just want my truck back and working, I don't have time to dig into this stuff in my garage. Other than getting into a pissing contest with the engine swap (second) shop, any pointers or suggestions on the situation?
Thanks!
Rear main seal didn't fix the leak, but the truck shifted great. They put in the rebuilt transmission and a new clutch kit, plus resurfaced the flywheel. Oil still leaking. Fast forward about a month and a half and I notice my heat's not working, engine temp skyrocketing. Pulled over and steam pouring out. Had it towed to the nearest shop, which has done good work for me before but didn't do the transmission, and the shop said the water pump failed and then the head gasket blew.
OK, this is an old engine, I replaced the rod bearings last year, the labor for a swap is less than a head gasket job, so I had a rebuilt engine with a great warranty put in. When I picked it up, though, I had trouble shifting in and out of gear from a stop. When rolling, no problem.
I took it back to the shop. They said it was the slave cylinder. OK, my clutch fluid is pretty dark, I buy it, they replace that. Doesn't fix it. Replaced a hydraulic line with a hole in it from rubbing against another part. Doesn't fix it.
Now they're telling me they're stumped and called a friend at the local Toyota dealership, who told them if the flywheel was resurfaced and the clutch isn't disengaging the flywheel should have been shimmed when it was resurfaced. Original transmission shop says it wasn't shimmed because it is stepped, and only if a whole lot of material is removed is a shim necessary, which wasn't the case. I buy this because the thing shifted fine after the transmission and clutch job.
Bottom line I've got the engine swap shop telling me they need to drop the transmission, which is beaucoup more $$$, and I think it's their fault from screwing something up with the engine swap.
I'm a really busy guy with two jobs and I just want my truck back and working, I don't have time to dig into this stuff in my garage. Other than getting into a pissing contest with the engine swap (second) shop, any pointers or suggestions on the situation?
Thanks!