I have a 99 5-speed 3.4 when I bought the truck the clutch engages about 1inch off the floor. Ive had many toyota 5 speeds over the years and kinda felt it was the slave cyl since it had a new clutch pressure plate and throw out beari g I stalled 20k miles ago. I got it home and went ahead and changed the clutch master cyl and slave cyl and bled them really good and was shocked to see it was the same as before I started....still only about an inch off the floor is all the clutch I have. I have the shaft adj as full as I can get it to get all the stroke I can from the slave cyl. Has anyone ever heard of maybe a shorter throw out beari g that maybe was installed instead of the right one? The clutch fork looks to be ok and when you press the pedal it moves a full stroke but its like its not moving anything in the clutch assy for about the 1st half of the stroke. Sorry for being so long but wanted to try to explain it all so I dont have a ton of useless questions.
clutch problems!!!!
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I do have a receipt for it and the PO knows the guy who did it for him. He called the guy and he couldnt recall anything wrong with it. Im in north Alabama and the shop is in Virginia. Im just hoping it really had a clutch put in it at this point! I have a toyota tech that works on the side and im taking it to him fri unless I hear of something here on the forum that I can try
My PO had receipts showing a new clutch plate, master cylinder, and slave cylinder installed in 2011. We've had to rebuild and then replace the master since then. I was not impressed with the parts or workmanship. Maybe you have something like that going on. Here's what we've seen:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129942-clutch-pedal-clutch-master-cyl.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129942-clutch-pedal-clutch-master-cyl.html
I seen your post just the other day. Lucky for me I have a good friend that is parts manager at toyota. When I replaced the clutch master cyl and slave cyl...parts came from toyota..oem. I called and told home him my pedal was still engaging 1in from floor and he told me to take both of them off and lets swap for 2 more just incase one of them was bad. I replaced both and still have the same problem. My pedal spring and bushing looks great. I just keep thinking that I have a part in my clutch that is shorter than the one that is supposed to be in there. I was hoping someone had maybe had this same problem. I just have crappy luck I guess. Hell if it was raining naked women I would get hit by a lesbian!
Sounds like you've got some things in your favor. Unfortunately I don't have a Toyota buddy but I do live close enough to Camelback Toyota to drive there and they've told me I could buy parts online at discount and have them install for labor cost only.
Please do post up the results when you have them. It will be good stuff to know. Good luck! :thumb3:
Please do post up the results when you have them. It will be good stuff to know. Good luck! :thumb3:
TheDurk
Elite Member
Get under there and push on the fork lever end that is pushed by the slave cylinder piston. There should be almost no play or no play. If there is, that fork may have been badly installed. Then have someone push the pedal in, the piston should extend straight, not at an angle. Either of these not the case, you have to get in and check the fork/throw-out/spring set-up.
Or I suppose the disk could have been put in backwards. I've never done it, but I'd imagine the result is something like that.
My 'runner is the same year, and same engine/trany as yours, and if I'm reading your post correct it sounds exactly like mine. A very short throw on the clutch and you have to push the clutch halfway through the firewall to get the starter safety to disengage. I have a brand new clutch, etc. and even my mechanic commented on the short throw.
TheDurk
Elite Member
The switch thing is a whole different problem (unless I misunderstood the OP). I solved that by gluing a furniture bumper on the tab that moves the clutch start switch. It's at the top of the pedal. That tab was high to begin with, and seemed to fatigue over time or the switch piston wore down. Easy fix. There are pics out there somewhere.
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Yeah I dont have a pedal problem. My trans shifts good and smooth and the pedal comes up to top like it should. Its like the 1st 75% of the pedal stroke is useless. I seen in an earlier post about the clutch plate possibly put in backwards. I dont know if it would work at all but that would make sense and would probably shorten the stroke up too. I know its driving me nuts to have to wait til the weekend to find out.
nevada
Senior Member
is there any adjustment left on the push rod?
can you make it a bit longer.
usually if the disc gets put in backwards, the clutch wont release, because its hitting the flywheel bolts.
TheDurk
Elite Member
These AISIN disks stick out about the same on both sides, so I don't think that will happen (hit bolts). That's why I say I don't know what the result is. It's really hard to figure out which way it goes in--I just did mine in October. It's not a case of duh-flat side to flywheel--not at all.
nevada
Senior Member
that's why I said usually. i have ran into a few that were basically centered.
also, if the stick out is the same, this wouldn't be an issue, and it could go in either way, right?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Dunno, but the sides are different (more of the springs show on one side), and the splines are a different length. There is a right way and a wrong way. The factory one was marked "T/M side" but the replacement was not, even though both were AISIN. I matched the factory T/M side to the replacement and put it in that way. Worked perfectly, anyway.
Maybe my clutch plate is in backwards. I would be shocked if there is only 3/16 in difference. I really feel like if I made another pushrod at work that was maybe 1/8 longer that it might fix it. My problem with that is....I want whatever it is fixed...not with a bandaid. Im not OCD, but im a machinist and I am used to things being precise and right. Im hoping to have an answer Saturday. Taking to a guys shop and putting it on the rack and dropping it out to see.
nevada
Senior Member
check the firewall, make sure its not cracked/flexing/broken.
have someone push the clutch while you watch.
im curious to find out what the problem is. even if the clutch was in backwards, its still the same thickness, I don't see how that would make any difference in the pedal throw.
The bushing in the middle of the clutch plate could be offset to one side of the clutch. If is offset .100 when installed the right way then it would be offset .100 the opposite direction if installed backwards. Which could explain why I was thinking I had a shorter throwout bearing than normal in it. Who knows....just thinking.
nevada
Senior Member
no, that wouldn't change anything.
the disc is positioned by the friction material, the plate itself.
it doesn't matter which way its in there, it will still be pinched exactly in between the flywheel, and pressure plate.