Coilover Questions

[SCRunner12]

I just got some used SAW 2.0's and have some questions. I've read that you should put something on the threads of the coilovers to reduce the risk of them getting stuck or hard to adjust. Has anyone done this? Some people mentioned just spraying the threads with WD-40.

Also is there any way to tell how much lift they will provide based on the amount of threads showing. I've read people saying have X amount of thread showing and you should get X amount of lift. Is there any basis to this? 1/2" more thread showing = 1" lift for example.

 

[Gerdo]

When I need to adjust my ToyTec COs, I spray some WD-40 on the threads.
You will get about twice the lift for the amount of coil adjustment. (1/2"=~1" of lift)

This is pretty accurate on the lift you will gain. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101871-top-out-spacers.html

 

[SCRunner12]

Perfect, just what I was looking for. Thanks Gerdo.

 

[JWaldz]

Are your coilovers adjusted all the way at the bottom. I was wondering the same thing mainly bc mine are already adjusted (bought used). So I need to measure from the beginning of the threads to the bottom of the plate and go from there? Mine are the 2.5s

 

[SCRunner12]

Are your coilovers adjusted all the way at the bottom. I was wondering the same thing mainly bc mine are already adjusted (bought used). So I need to measure from the beginning of the threads to the bottom of the plate and go from there? Mine are the 2.5s

Yeah mine are adjusted from the bottom. They are the older design of the SAW 2.0's. Mine are already adjusted as well, but the guy said they gave his regular cab 4cyl 3" of lift. I would measure as you said.

 

[JWaldz]

So the guy I got these CO's from said he had them setup to level out his Taco at 1", which also includes setting them to compensate for the infamous "Taco Lean".

I'm trying to grasp the every 1/2" thread = 1" of lift concept when the coils are measuring out to around 1" and the other 1-1/2". It's leading me to believe that if he says they gave his taco (with additional front weight) about 1" of lift then on these SAW's it's 1" for every 1" ???

 

[SCRunner12]

Yeah I know what you mean. Mine look like around 2.5" of threads, but I'm just going to install them that way anyways. I'll just see what kind of lift I get and adjust later on.

This brings me to my next questions. I'm 90% sure I know the answer, but would adjusting the coilover up or down throw the alignment off at all?

 

[sn0wrunner]

Even though they all have similar design, every coil over is going to be a little different as far as how much thread showing vs. actual lift height. I'm running 16" coils on my front coil overs instead of 14" coils and therefore have it pretty much set on the bottom. There is only about 5 threads showing on the collar and I'm sitting at more than 4" of lift. If I were using the 14" coils I would have to have it adjusted with 2" of thread showing, plus five threads, to be at the same hight. Assuming the spring rate of the coils are the same.

For minor adjustments you don't really need an alignment. It won't hurt obviously and is probly a good idea. But if you are only making 1/4" adjustments its fine without an alignment.

 

[JWaldz]

I got a quote from OffroadWarehouse in San Diego. For cleaning, new seals, oil, nitrogen, and re-valving for my truck it will cost me $234 shipped round trip.

Offroad-Engineering (also in San Diego) quoted me $75/shock for parts and labor. Not including addition parts, re-valving, and shipping.

It just sucks I have no company here that does any kind of coil over rebuilding. All the reputable shops are out west. Bla

 

[SCRunner12]

Have you thought about doing it yourself? It seems daunting, but since you won't have any downtime for your 4runner you can take your time. I think the only things you can't do is re-valve or nitrogen charge them. Luckily the guy before me rebuilt them a couple of months ago so I was good to go.

 

[theizzardking]

I got a quote from OffroadWarehouse in San Diego. For cleaning, new seals, oil, nitrogen, and re-valving for my truck it will cost me $234 shipped round trip.

Offroad-Engineering (also in San Diego) quoted me $75/shock for parts and labor. Not including addition parts, re-valving, and shipping.

It just sucks I have no company here that does any kind of coil over rebuilding. All the reputable shops are out west. Bla

try bike shops, as in sport street bikes they should be able to do the work for you or at least charge them for you when your done with the rebuild....

how you liking the saw's man? i couldn't be happier with my setup, it kills the billies and the OME i had before, what's your thoughts on teh saws?:banana:

 

[JWaldz]

Well I got some tips (and tricks) about the SAWs from a local buddy who has had them. I'm just gonna clean them up and put them on, not worrying about a rebuild. He told me, you have to look at it this way. They were designed to be beat up and ran rough. The previous owner CLEARLY didn't do that, especially considering the shape they're in. If they were beat up and ran in the desert it would be one thing, but they were mall crawled. Therefor, skip the rebuild and just run them. Later down the road, look into a rebuild. I think that's good advice

I might get them on this week some time, I also need to change out my driver cv.. It's leaking.

 

[renosauce]

each coil over on each truck will be different..throw it on and adjust accordingly.

Different Coil's I.E. spring rate and length will change ride hide...and amount of ride height accordingly.
OP if you need help just come over to the shop ill help you out. They are very simple. I can even rebuild them as well.

The number one thing you want to do is make sure you have nitrogen in them...
Running them dry with no nitrogen will wear them out faster.

If they are not leaking then you dont need a rebuild...
I would only rebuild if they are leaking.
They are not hard to rebuild..i started doing them with out any type of knowledge...and then just read a ton..
Im still learning about the valving part...its simple to change..just not to good at fine tuning it. I leave that to the pros that do it all the time.
Down Town Motor Sports is a good place for rebuilds and tuning..

 

[JWaldz]

Is a disassemble required when recharging them with nitrogen?

 

[renosauce]

no not at all..you should have a shrader valve on them...and pure nitrogen be used at around 150-200 psi..depending on the shock and manufacture..

according to this link from SAW...it should be at 200 PSI..the compartment that holds nitrogen is small so using a gauge doesnt work..normally you just use a nitrogen tank and set pressure regulator at 200 psi.

Sway-A-Way Coilover Shocks from Wheeler's Off-Road

 

[JWaldz]

no not at all..you should have a shrader valve on them...and pure nitrogen be used at around 150-200 psi..depending on the shock and manufacture..

according to this link from SAW...it should be at 200 PSI..the compartment that holds nitrogen is small so using a gauge doesnt work..normally you just use a nitrogen tank and set pressure regulator at 200 psi.

Sway-A-Way Coilover Shocks from Wheeler's Off-Road

Thanks for this, much much help! Rep power for ya

 

[renosauce]

no problem...
coil overs is pretty much all we use.. on our prerunners.

couple of the rigs ive built this year..

 

[JWaldz]

We don't have a single shop like that here in Arkansas. Mainly bc well, we don't have sand and don't need LT lol.

 

[SCRunner12]

each coil over on each truck will be different..throw it on and adjust accordingly.

Different Coil's I.E. spring rate and length will change ride hide...and amount of ride height accordingly.
OP if you need help just come over to the shop ill help you out. They are very simple. I can even rebuild them as well.

The number one thing you want to do is make sure you have nitrogen in them...
Running them dry with no nitrogen will wear them out faster.

If they are not leaking then you dont need a rebuild...
I would only rebuild if they are leaking.
They are not hard to rebuild..i started doing them with out any type of knowledge...and then just read a ton..
Im still learning about the valving part...its simple to change..just not to good at fine tuning it. I leave that to the pros that do it all the time.
Down Town Motor Sports is a good place for rebuilds and tuning..

Thanks for the info and I will definitely stop by your shop soon. My SAW's were rebuilt a couple of months ago so I'm good with that, but might as well check the Nitrogen levels. I'm going to refer my brother-in-law to you though as he has a full LT up front on his Taco and hasn't touched anything for well over 6 years. It definitely needs some attention.

Well I got some tips (and tricks) about the SAWs from a local buddy who has had them. I'm just gonna clean them up and put them on, not worrying about a rebuild. He told me, you have to look at it this way. They were designed to be beat up and ran rough. The previous owner CLEARLY didn't do that, especially considering the shape they're in. If they were beat up and ran in the desert it would be one thing, but they were mall crawled. Therefor, skip the rebuild and just run them. Later down the road, look into a rebuild. I think that's good advice

I might get them on this week some time, I also need to change out my driver cv.. It's leaking.

I think that's probably the best idea. Maybe keep your old lift around for a little bit just to be safe. Can't wait to hear how they work for you.

try bike shops, as in sport street bikes they should be able to do the work for you or at least charge them for you when your done with the rebuild....

how you liking the saw's man? i couldn't be happier with my setup, it kills the billies and the OME i had before, what's your thoughts on teh saws?:banana:

I'm not sure if the last part was directed at ARKRWLR, but I really like my SAW's. They are a bit softer and I can tell they flex better than the Tundra's. I haven't been able to really test them out, but I'm going to do some wheeling at my cabin this weekend. I need to bump the front up a little more as I have the same lift as my Tundra's. Like you mentioned, the new lift really shows how my rear lift is lacking. I knew my rear coils were stiff, but it has become more apparent now.

 

[JWaldz]

If I only wanted to refill the nitrogen or check the psi in them do they need to be on the truck and at full droop?