Cold start brief random misfire and I'm running out of stuff to try!

As my issue has begun happening again, I decided to do ANOTHER compression check. All values were between 180 and 190 (dry). I then rented one of those block testers that checks the coolant for combustion gases or whatever and it did not find any (ran the test 3 times to be safe).

I am not really sure what to try next. I was helping a mechanic friend pull a boat engine over the weekend so I had him start it after it had sat all day. As it was misfiring he hopped under the hood and started pulling wires off of my spark plugs, "watching and feeling" for the cylinder that was missing. (I thought he was crazy) He's very confident that my misfire is on the passenger side, but by the time we had unbolted the coil packs the "ECU had started compensating" he said, and the misfire had all but vanished.
 
Well the new but previously used long block is in and up and running. We will see if this finally fixes this damn problem. I've got more to share but it was a long weekend.
 
Okay a couple of cell phone pics from my weekend o fun

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Old faithful coming out. 266k on it and never had any real issues before this.

I didn't realize how sentimental this truck was. After spending a weekend under it I found its stash of souvenirs. There were rocks and dirt from everywhere I've ever taken it! Luckily the oil leak from the seal in the back of the head helped solidify its collection!

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I gave it a half assed cleaning job, but lets be honest. this isn't a show car and I have far more fun getting it dirty than cleaning it.

Old

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Vs New used

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And a bearing shot of the new used engine.

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I'm sure there are already plenty of engine swap guides or you could always break out that service manual. So we don't need to get into that. A few details about this particular swap:

I picked up the engine from JDM Engine Bay in San Leandro, CA JAPAN USED ENGINES STORE. I think I paid right around $1100 for it as a complete engine.

I would guess all of the 5VZFE engines they have are actually from the Toyota Granvia Link provided since I didn't know what the hell it was either.

Easiest way to tell is the heater core lines running over the front of the engine. Although there are a LOT of little differences in the two set ups. Lets see if I can remember them all:

Oil Pan and Oil pick up will not work in the 4Runner
Oil filter is in the rear location (where the 4Runner's oil cooler is)
Does not have an oil cooler.
Alternator is a 6 rib.
Crank pulley and fan bracket pulley has the rear 6 rib to work with the Granvia Alternator. Upgrading to this would not be easy. since it is the rear most pulley it pushed the power steering and AC out by two ribs. in other words swap your old stuff on.

I believe the alternator would work with the original 4Runner pulley but I haven't actually tried it.
Same goes for the throttle body.

Injectors, coils, cam/crank, and knock sensors all worked fine with my 2000 CA emissions model.

I haven't actually torn down the original engine yet to look for my exact problem. At the same time as this I also replaced a lot of vacuum lines with factory parts. I have the Toyota part # for the 4mm stuff somewhere if anyone needs it. The larger stuff I had to be creative with auto parts store stuff.

The gaskets that held the lower intake to the heads were all but disintegrated. The coolant passage o rings basically crumbled when I removed it. Even as well as I cleaned it when I swapped the injectors originally there was still a ton of dirt around the injector seals which could create a bit of a vacuum leak. I never found an actual leak during all of my testing, but basically it's possible I had a few small ones.

Anyway truck is running great, starts faster, and I'm once again able to trust it to go anywhere with out a worry. $1500 between the engine and parts from Lithia Toyota sounds like a bargain to me after it survived 8 years of my abuse.
 

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