Hello all...new to board,have been reading a lot ,this is first post. My new ride is a 2005 SE with a 6...have to say this is one sweet ride, I have about 1000 mi in a month and all is great. I have noticed that on cold startup the engine runs at 1500 rpm and as it warms up that idle drops down to about 600 rpm. Seems to me the 1500 is too high for a cold engine but this is first Toyota. Any comments ?
cold startup idle speed
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ms044runner
New member
I have wondered that myself since its been cold the last few months. I thought something was wrong with my engine.
mikes4runner
New member
Yes right down the road from you beeper, all is normal no worries.
MicaBlue03
Member
Faster, and louder too
You'll probably notice that the engine seems louder for the first 15 seconds or so after startup, whether in hot or cold temps. The temperature-sensitive fan clutch apparently has a fluid in some passages that normally gets spun out to its perimiter after a few seconds, allowing the fan itself to spin more slowly than its drive hub. So the engine/fan combo is extra loud at first when the engine is cold.
I've always been a little surprised at how high these engines rev right off the bat when cold. I don't think it's the best thing for their longevity, but I suspect it helps warm them up quicker and reduce emissions. I suppose that some would argue that warming them up quicker (even if the revs are pretty high at first) is better in the long run. This is just another of those things that the engine computers do differently than I would, and that I just choose not to worry about.
You'll probably notice that the engine seems louder for the first 15 seconds or so after startup, whether in hot or cold temps. The temperature-sensitive fan clutch apparently has a fluid in some passages that normally gets spun out to its perimiter after a few seconds, allowing the fan itself to spin more slowly than its drive hub. So the engine/fan combo is extra loud at first when the engine is cold.
I've always been a little surprised at how high these engines rev right off the bat when cold. I don't think it's the best thing for their longevity, but I suspect it helps warm them up quicker and reduce emissions. I suppose that some would argue that warming them up quicker (even if the revs are pretty high at first) is better in the long run. This is just another of those things that the engine computers do differently than I would, and that I just choose not to worry about.
It works like a choke on a mawnlower or snowblower, it won't start without the highidle, I tried it on a car, left it overnight and when we started it up it would just stall, it needs more gas to run.
Funny how you think it's high and will hurt the longevity of the engine, have you noticed that it only revs at 1500rpm and the manurfacture specifies when you start up the vehicle and you are letting it warm up to drrive no higher then 2000rpms
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Funny how you think it's high and will hurt the longevity of the engine, have you noticed that it only revs at 1500rpm and the manurfacture specifies when you start up the vehicle and you are letting it warm up to drrive no higher then 2000rpms
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Ridger
New member
I'm still wondering a little bit about this high idle thing....
... when I start my 4Runner it revs very high for about 15 sec with the tach at about 1300-1400 rpm, then after that 15 sec it quiets down some (as explained above due to the engine/fan combo) but still continues to rev high and still within the same rpm's (1300-1400) and I've let it sit for 3-4 minutes and it still is revving at the same rpm's.
Then when I put it in drive it wants to lurch forward hard and when I start driving the transmission doesn't even want to shift from 1st to 2nd. I push the gas pedal and it revs higher but doesn't seem to engage the transmission right away (feels like it's slipping). After a few minutes of driving everything seems normal again and I never feel any transmission issues any other time.
Is this what everyone else is feeling?
Of course the weather is colder here now with winter coming on, but I park in my garage and it never gets below freezing in there.
I meantioned it to my dealership and he mentioned it might be due to some idle sensor or chip (not sure what he called it exactly now) that might need reset?
... when I start my 4Runner it revs very high for about 15 sec with the tach at about 1300-1400 rpm, then after that 15 sec it quiets down some (as explained above due to the engine/fan combo) but still continues to rev high and still within the same rpm's (1300-1400) and I've let it sit for 3-4 minutes and it still is revving at the same rpm's.
Then when I put it in drive it wants to lurch forward hard and when I start driving the transmission doesn't even want to shift from 1st to 2nd. I push the gas pedal and it revs higher but doesn't seem to engage the transmission right away (feels like it's slipping). After a few minutes of driving everything seems normal again and I never feel any transmission issues any other time.
Is this what everyone else is feeling?
Of course the weather is colder here now with winter coming on, but I park in my garage and it never gets below freezing in there.
I meantioned it to my dealership and he mentioned it might be due to some idle sensor or chip (not sure what he called it exactly now) that might need reset?
Ridger
New member
Okay... good to know, guess everything is normal then, thanks Nuke!
I also did a test at noon time, so I'll share anyway... the temperature was 8 C (46 F);
Start - 1500 rpm
15 sec - 1300 rpm
30 sec - 1300 rpm
45 sec - 1300 rpm
1 min - 1300 rpm
1.5 min - 1200 rpm
2 min - 1100 rpm
2.5 min - 1000 rpm
3 min - 1000 rpm
3.5 min - 900 rpm
4 min - 900 rpm
4.5 min - 900 rpm
5 min - 900 rpm
After a 5 min drive - 700 rpm (which is normal)
I also did a test at noon time, so I'll share anyway... the temperature was 8 C (46 F);
Start - 1500 rpm
15 sec - 1300 rpm
30 sec - 1300 rpm
45 sec - 1300 rpm
1 min - 1300 rpm
1.5 min - 1200 rpm
2 min - 1100 rpm
2.5 min - 1000 rpm
3 min - 1000 rpm
3.5 min - 900 rpm
4 min - 900 rpm
4.5 min - 900 rpm
5 min - 900 rpm
After a 5 min drive - 700 rpm (which is normal)
eskimochaos
Banned
Its normal - its entirely controlled by a computer.
Mine is over 1.5k on cold mornings.
Idle is exactly 625 w/0 AC compressor engaged btw - not 700. They lowered it in the 05 model year. I dont remember what it was originally.
Applicable to V8 ONLY
/thread
inb4 you need to warm your engine before driving
Mine is over 1.5k on cold mornings.
Idle is exactly 625 w/0 AC compressor engaged btw - not 700. They lowered it in the 05 model year. I dont remember what it was originally.
Applicable to V8 ONLY
/thread
inb4 you need to warm your engine before driving
Nuke
New member
Not so.
With todays oils plus the fact we're using 5W in lieu of the older 10W oils, you only need enough time to ensure you have oil flow, which is practically immediate. The time it takes to fasten your seatbelt and check your gauges after cranking the engine over, you should be ready to go. Just go easy on the acceleration those first few miles and you're fine.
eskimochaos
Banned
Which is why I said I was in b4 someone said that it was necessary - you misinterpreted or I wasnt clear.
Nuke
New member
What matters is, who's the chick in your avatar pic/gif? :naughty:
eskimochaos
Banned
Nuke
New member
Well, there goes MY productivity for the rest of the day.......................
ty. :hungry:
eskimochaos
Banned
She is a porn star, be careful if your at work.
FWIW one of her tatas is a full cup smaller than the other.
FWIW one of her tatas is a full cup smaller than the other.
Ridger
New member
Thought I would post an update regarding my high-idle on cold start.
Had my fluids all switched over to AMSoil synthetics on Dec 23rd. Was recommended by CJ3Flyr (Chris) to reset the EFI and ECT fuses afterward to let it "relearn' my driving patterns. So I pulled the fuses (EFI, EFI2 and ECT) left them out for about 15min and put them back in. Turned the key to on for about 15 sec before starting it up and then started it and let it run for a few minutes, but I did not take it for a drive.
The next morning my wife took it out for an errand. When she came back she told me how it started and drove so much better. So I took it for a drive and couldn't believe the difference in the cold start idle and drive. It still starts up and idles at arround 1500rpm but idles down faster, and more importantly drives much smoother and quieter. I suspect that the ECT fuse reset has the most to do with this.
I would highly recommend resetting these fuses if you have not done it recently. Has made a huge difference in how mine starts and drives (plus the syntetic fluids help some too I believe).
Had my fluids all switched over to AMSoil synthetics on Dec 23rd. Was recommended by CJ3Flyr (Chris) to reset the EFI and ECT fuses afterward to let it "relearn' my driving patterns. So I pulled the fuses (EFI, EFI2 and ECT) left them out for about 15min and put them back in. Turned the key to on for about 15 sec before starting it up and then started it and let it run for a few minutes, but I did not take it for a drive.
The next morning my wife took it out for an errand. When she came back she told me how it started and drove so much better. So I took it for a drive and couldn't believe the difference in the cold start idle and drive. It still starts up and idles at arround 1500rpm but idles down faster, and more importantly drives much smoother and quieter. I suspect that the ECT fuse reset has the most to do with this.
I would highly recommend resetting these fuses if you have not done it recently. Has made a huge difference in how mine starts and drives (plus the syntetic fluids help some too I believe).
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