cold transmission problem?

V

vthokie

New member
So its starting to get pretty cold out and i just experienced something a little weird with my 4runner. When i shifted into drive i expected it to start moving, at least a little just from idling, but it didn't. So i gave it some gas and it grabbed and sort of jerked forward. It wasn't a hard jerk, but it was noticeable. After driving a little while everything was fine, and it shifted smooth. It has happened twice in the past 2 days. It doesn't happen every time, but usually when its been sitting for a few hours. It doesn't seem to occur when it is not freezing outside, so i believe it has something to do with the cold transmission fluid?
I was wondering if anyone knew what this was or if anyone had experienced it before or knew how to fix it. I hope it isn't a big deal, but I'm not sure, I'd just like to fix it.

(i did search this i just couldn't find exactly what i was looking for so i figured i would ask)
 
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Your trans fluid is getting thicker with the cold therefore harder to move in the valve body. What temps are you experiencing and how long do you allow for warm up? I'd say it's do to the cold but next time it's warmed up check the fluid level. Low fluid level would also cause this.
 
its been around 25-35 for the past few days. I let it warm up for about a minute, i guess i should wait longer? I plan on checking the transmission fluid today. Hopefully the problem is that it is just a little low.
 
Unless you put the transmission in drive, reverse or neutral, the pump will not be on and no fluid moving around.

Your engine will warm up nicely, but the tranny fluid won't untill the pump starts to circulate the fluid.

I love living in Florida :) no snow!
 
Cold fluid doesn't do what you're describing. My tranny shifts fine in the cold, even below zero. It would have to be extremely cold for ATF viscosity to cause issues.

Could be low fluid. Could be a sticky brake drum that releases suddenly. You mentioned you gave it gas from idle...did the RPMs climb rapidly before the trans jumped to life? Or did it appear to begin moving right away with the throttle input, and then normally after the bump?
 
Qyota said:
Cold fluid doesn't do what you're describing. My tranny shifts fine in the cold, even below zero. It would have to be extremely cold for ATF viscosity to cause issues.

Could be low fluid. Could be a sticky brake drum that releases suddenly. You mentioned you gave it gas from idle...did the RPMs climb rapidly before the trans jumped to life? Or did it appear to begin moving right away with the throttle input, and then normally after the bump?
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I didn't really have to rev it much at all it started taking off around 1000 rpm or a little less. It usually idles around 5-600. After I started moving it was perfectly fine, nice smooth shifts. I tried to stop and see if it would happen again but it didn't. I'm hoping its only just a little low. I'll be home in an hour so ill take it for a drive and check the level. It has been perfectly fine until it got cold. Could it possibly be fine when it is a little low and warm? And not when it is a little low and cold?
 
You said it only did it below freezing, was there water on the wheels? Maybe it froze in place, then broke free.
 
99runnerwa said:
did you set your parking break? i have heard of them sticking in cold weather.
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i actually did set my parking break but i dont think that was it. A few hours ago i went out and started it, put it in neutral for a minute then reverse and it backed up/ started off just fine. I checked the transmission fluid and it is a little low so i went to advance and got some dextron 3 (i think that's right) so i will be adding a little in the morning. The fluid smells a little burnt though so does that mean i just need to change it and have the filter replaced/cleaned?
 
That sounds like your u-joint might just need to be greased to me. Cold fluid shouldn't make it do that like Qyota said. I beg to differ that the pump doesn't turn on unless you put it in gear. When I did my DIY tranny flush, I let the tranny pump a quart out of the return line going into a bucket. Then I would kill the engine, add a qt., turn the engine back on, let a qt. pump out, pour a qt. back in, etc.. I didn't have to put it in gear for the pump to come on, it started flowing as soon as the engine was started up.

As far as a fluid change, if it's burnt I would definitely change the tranny fluid. It wouldn't be a bad idea to drop the pan and clean or replace the mesh filter too, but I wouldn't do a full flush in your case since you are already having tranny problems (if that's what it is - I'm still leaning towards the u-joint needing grease.

What I would do is drop the pan and replace the filter. I got 6 qts out that way, but some say 4 qts. The owner's manual says 2.1 or something, but it's wrong, everybody seem to get at least 4 qts. To be safe, I would measure how much fluid came out and fill it back up with the same amount, then check it in P with the engine running on level ground - after you drive it about 30 minutes.
 
brian2sun said:
That sounds like your u-joint might just need to be greased to me. Cold fluid shouldn't make it do that like Qyota said. I beg to differ that the pump doesn't turn on unless you put it in gear. When I did my DIY tranny flush, I let the tranny pump a quart out of the return line going into a bucket. Then I would kill the engine, add a qt., turn the engine back on, let a qt. pump out, pour a qt. back in, etc.. I didn't have to put it in gear for the pump to come on, it started flowing as soon as the engine was started up.

As far as a fluid change, if it's burnt I would definitely change the tranny fluid. It wouldn't be a bad idea to drop the pan and clean or replace the mesh filter too, but I wouldn't do a full flush in your case since you are already having tranny problems (if that's what it is - I'm still leaning towards the u-joint needing grease.

What I would do is drop the pan and replace the filter. I got 6 qts out that way, but some say 4 qts. The owner's manual says 2.1 or something, but it's wrong, everybody seem to get at least 4 qts. To be safe, I would measure how much fluid came out and fill it back up with the same amount, then check it in P with the engine running on level ground - after you drive it about 30 minutes.
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I'll look into the u-joint as a cause, but as for the issue with the "jerk" it hasn't done it all day. I'll definitely see if it happens again over the next few weeks. As for having burnt transmission fluid, how long can i go without having it changed? I'll be at school for another 2 weeks then ill be heading home on a 200 mile trip. Will i be ok to get it home and have it changed there? I usually like to work on my car with my dad, but i think he wants to take it to a transmission shop to have them drain it and replace the filter.
 
I think you'll be fine, a few hundred more miles probably won't make much of a difference. But... to help and to be on the safe side, you could just pull the drain plug on the pan now and drain it from there. Not as much will come out that way and I'm not sure on the amount. That might be the reason the the manual states 2.1 qts., I dunno. It's safest to just measure the amount that comes out and replace it with the same (that is as long as your fluid is at a good level now). Use Dexron III or higher also. This Dex/Merc works fine also if you want to go cheap, but still decent fluid:
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/maxlife/automatic-transmission-fluid/37
 
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i would check the transfer case fluid as well (which is just more ATF) and definitely grease the u-joints; there are almost a dozen grease fittings from one end of my driveshaft to the other (and then the front driveshaft as well). whether they need it or not, it's always good routine maintenance to keep prevent excessive wear and future problems. as for the possible brake issue, something could've gotten up in the caliper and compromised a cylinder seal causing it to freeze up. lastly the transmission filter is very important, even if warmed up, a clogged filter could constrict the flow of fluid and possibly cause the symptom you're experiencing. i hope some of this might be helpful, sometimes you don't get any warning signs from your trans when it needs attention and they aren't very cheap. best of luck!
 
Checking/changing the t-case fluid is a good idea. However, I gotta correct you on the fluid because I would hate to see the OP do damage to his. The t-case does not use ATF, it uses 75w-90 gear oil.
 
ok well i definately need to go ahead and do everything you guys have mentioned because i recently got the 4runner and don't know exactly when it was all done last. A little while ago i expereinced the same "jerk" but its really not as much of a jerk as it is the car not wanting to move after it has been sitting. I actually believe it is the brakes... I felt them release as i started going forward. I'm not sure why they are sticking though. I did just replace the pads and rotors a week or two ago. I didnt notice anything up until now though.
 
First off, determine which component is giving you trouble. From your initial description, it was taking too long for the transmission to get into gear when cold. You can tell when the tranny is getting into gear, because the engine revs drop. Is this what happened, or do the revs drop quickly when you first move the gear selector into D or R?

If it's the tranny misbehaving, the first thing to do is check the level and condition of the fluid. Make sure the the engine has warmed up and the truck is on _level_ ground.

If the fluid smells burnt, I recommend a complete flush. How often has the fluid been drained and filled (not flushed)? Doing this every 30k miles is a good rule of thumb.

A friend of mine with an '04 Tundra was experiencing a problem similar to what you describe, even when warm. He had over 100k miles and had _never_ performed a drain and fill. He did a simple drain and fill, then added a Lucas tranny additive. That got the tranny working properly. Hopefully he'll continue to do periodic drain and fills to keep it working.

If you bought the truck with an unknown maintenance history, and it has over 30k miles, performing a tranny drain and fill should be high on your to do list, regardless of how the tranny is shifting.
 
Similar-ish

Sounds sort of similar to my issue that started today. I have only experienced it today, and the high has been a sweltering 2 degrees, not counting windchill.
I had to shift to 4wd today on ice, and then shifted back to 2wd once out if the situation...pushed the gas, and there was a pronounced "thunk" which my first response was it sounded and felt like a brake froze up. When I tried however to engage the 4wd, it wouldn't: stick wouldnt move at all. I cycled the gears, and tried to engage 4wd a second time, and nothing. Had to drive it home in 2wd (not a problem.) 20 mins later, in the driveway, shifted into 4wd fine.

Still does. did check the transfercase fluid (slow leak) and it was low, so topped it off, and engaged 4wd. Works. put it in 2wd, drove to the store, and at the intersection, stopped, then pushed the gas to go forward. Thunk. Like its all suddenly locking in...or the brake drum is letting go. Drove into the parking lot, shifted all the way through the trans and the tcase. Nothing, shifted fine. Went in, came out. truck sat for 10 mins maybe. Started, shifted, drove fine. Stopped for people to cross the rd, pushed the gas. Thunk. Tried again to recreate it. Nothing. Shifts and drives fine, no noise, nothing. Put it through all the gears again. Nothing. Seems fine.

Now....today has been the first day of this super cold snap and been below 25 degrees, and Ive only had it do this today.

Ive had to use the 4wd several times to cross the snow berms in intersections and leave parking lots full of ice in the last week. No issues.

Trans fluid was changed in May, and has had about 9k at the very most put on it.
Checked the TCase and topped it off today, because it was low. My friend at his shop said as I was depressing the brakes that my rear wheels locked up first before the fronts. (clue?)

My back brake drums, I have no idea when they were last turned, but I never changed my brake shoes after the axle seals failed and saturated the shoes with gear oil. I know i should have, but they were not replaced.


Thoughts? Other than the heat Im going to get for not replacing the shoes. Its the next project if they are suddenly sticking because of the cold
 
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