I'm still waiting... communication was great when they were taking orders. I wish it was the same after they took my money.
Coming Soon - Direct Plug & Play Rigid Industries Fog Light Kit 2014+ 4Runner
- Thread starter TotalAutomotiveLV
- Start date
I'm still waiting... communication was great when they were taking orders. I wish it was the same after they took my money.
LawnDart
Senior Member
Mine is showing up today. I'd suggest emailing or calling Mike.
Yep, Mike got me covered.
Whoever is running the T4R TAP account should be fired for poor customer service. :flamethrwoer2:
LawnDart
Senior Member
Yep, Mike got me covered.
Whoever is running the T4R TAP account should be fired for poor customer service. :flamethrwoer2:
Fired? No. But given better information for sure.
Mike is awesome, I get the wiring harness today, but my truck is in the shop till early next week due to labor day.
I can install them then, I suppose, and then a few days later it's back in the shop for the CBI bumper.
manofsteele2003
New member
Yep, Mike got me covered.
Whoever is running the T4R TAP account should be fired for poor customer service. :flamethrwoer2:
Whoa whoa, slow your roll homie, it's not TAP fault, they're at the mercy of the manufacture. This stuff was released to us long before it was ever on the Rigid site. I got my harness on Monday so I'm all good to install which I'll tackle next week.
LawnDart
Senior Member
Got my harness today. I just got no vehicle to install it on. WHOMP WHOMP!
I never said it was TAP's fault.
LawnDart
Senior Member
If you checked back a page or two people have installed this kit. Just saying.
RedStripeRanger
New member
Installed mine about two weeks back with amber D2s in driving. Never once had anyone flash their lights at me. Ambers arent as "bright" but throws light a lot further down the road than my headlights (H9 retros).
One thing I did notice is the Rigid bracket had a tab that doesnt fit into fog light plastic mold on the bumper. One of my lights doesnt look square and still trying to figure out how to make it level.
One thing I did notice is the Rigid bracket had a tab that doesnt fit into fog light plastic mold on the bumper. One of my lights doesnt look square and still trying to figure out how to make it level.
sovat4r
New member
RedStripeRanger,
When I installed mine a few days back, initially that bracket tab had me confused as well. If not installed correctly, the whole mount will wiggle since it is only supported by the 2 screws. Then I figured out that the metal tab on the bracket slips into the little tab hole in the plastic bumper...in the same plane as the 2 screws but opposite side of the foglight hole. Once you insert the tab into this hole and screw down the other side, the bracket is fully secure.
NOTE: this open hole in the bumper where the tab goes used to help hold the little plastic cover over the passengers side foglight assembly (since there are vents in the passenger side wheel liner only)....that plastic cover cant go back in since you steal or cover most of it's clip holes with the new RI mounts.
Specs from Rigid (for SAE compliant fog lights):
Watts: 33
Amp Draw: 2.29
LED's: 4
Raw Lumens: 1760
Lux @ 10m: 106
Beam Distance: 103 m
Peak Beam Intensity: 10570 cd
Price: $279 (for lights alone, bracket is extra)
Specs from Toyota XB LED fog lights:
Light Source:3x Philips Luxeon-TLED
Optics:Kuria Projector Fog Lens
Intensity:2400 Lumens
Kelvin Rating:5500K (pure white)
Price: $170
I believe there are always issues comparing lumens from different manufacturers since there is no standard measurement protocol. Therefore, 1760 vs 2400 likely isn't what it seems to be. Other than this, the optics are completely different and they produce different beam patterns as a result.
If you're asking about Rigid cubes other than the fogs, there is also no comparison since those shine light in a flood pattern or spot pattern. These throw a ton more light, but without any semblance of a cutoff.
RedStripeRanger
New member
RedStripeRanger,
When I installed mine a few days back, initially that bracket tab had me confused as well. If not installed correctly, the whole mount will wiggle since it is only supported by the 2 screws. Then I figured out that the metal tab on the bracket slips into the little tab hole in the plastic bumper...in the same plane as the 2 screws but opposite side of the foglight hole. Once you insert the tab into this hole and screw down the other side, the bracket is fully secure.
NOTE: this open hole in the bumper where the tab goes used to help hold the little plastic cover over the passengers side foglight assembly (since there are vents in the passenger side wheel liner only)....that plastic cover cant go back in since you steal or cover most of it's clip holes with the new RI mounts.
Thanks for the help! I didnt take the bumper off when I installed the lights, looks like I should to get everything installed correctly.
sovat4r
New member
Yeah the 5 minutes it takes to remove the bumper is well worth the pain and suffering it would take to install these from up underneath.
Take a look at this if you need help in removing the bumper:
Keep in mind...(6) of those clips across the top are actually between the top grill area and the lower grill area...they hold the assembly to the center cross bar. It is sorta hard to tell by the diagram but you can figure it out I'm sure...if you remove the top grill portion (1 bolt, 2 push pins, and pull outward), it becomes very easy to see how to remove the rest. Oh, and for the uppermost screw in each wheel well, pull the bumper out and over the screw-mount (as it holds it in)...once you get this, apply some force and the rest of the friction claws will easily pop off.
Take a look at this if you need help in removing the bumper:
REMOVE FRONT BUMPER COVER
(a) Put protective tape around the front bumper cover.
(b) Remove the 3 bolts, 10 screws and 6 clips.
(c) Detach the 14 claws to remove the front bumper cover with radiator grille.
Keep in mind...(6) of those clips across the top are actually between the top grill area and the lower grill area...they hold the assembly to the center cross bar. It is sorta hard to tell by the diagram but you can figure it out I'm sure...if you remove the top grill portion (1 bolt, 2 push pins, and pull outward), it becomes very easy to see how to remove the rest. Oh, and for the uppermost screw in each wheel well, pull the bumper out and over the screw-mount (as it holds it in)...once you get this, apply some force and the rest of the friction claws will easily pop off.
LawnDart
Senior Member
Installing mine early next week when my vehicle is back (CURSE YOU LABOR DAY!) and...I'll have to install them from underneath, but now that I know exactly how they should be positioned I'm not that worried.
Thanks! This explanation (and the linked figure) helped a great deal.
Took me maybe 30 minutes to take the bumper cover off since I wasn't committing to using some force. Replacing the fogs and reinstalling the bumper cover took another 20 minutes. Looking forward to testing the setup tonight!
manofsteele2003
New member
OK, what has that have to do with the thread?
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