Part frustration Part Uneducated Rambling:
I am really confused and have exhausted my knowledge base. Live in Memphis, have basically unlimited direct sunlight the majority of the day to my panel but my old battery wasn't cutting it for the fridge to run all night set at 4F(default) so I figured the 2005 OEM OG battery was the culprit. Apparently/Maybe not the case. I haven't really used the freezer side so after this frustration I have changed it to 30F to see how that goes going forward. I have borrowed a voltmeter and took some general readings. The next test is tonight as I am going to check the voltage when I park the 4runner for the evening, again at 10pm, then again when I go to work in the morning to see what my voltage drop is and see if it's to a dangerous level or not. If there is something else I should be looking at let me know. Any help is appreciated. The fridge is set on the intermediate voltage cutoff setting which is listed below from the manual.
Battery monitor mode LOW MED HIGH
Switch-off voltage at 10.1 V - 11.4 V - 11.8 V
Restart-voltage at 11.1 V - 12.2 V - 12.6 V
I am trying to avoid a dual battery setup, Just seems like super overkill for me but I'm frustrated that my new battery, although not a deep cycle, didn't make a difference for a single overnight use. Not looking for 2-3 days. This could be attributed to a new battery coming off the shelf and needed some charge before it's valid. I didn't have the meter last night to check this. More testing will be needed.
Less than scientific test:
Vehicle has sat in the sun without being started since 11am. Fridge set to 30F.
2:45 pm direct overhead sun with solar running 13.75v average over 1 min with fridge possibly cycling compressor, can't confirm. The temperature was holding steady so probably not.
2:47 pm same setup from above but fridge turned off 13.84v average over 1 min. I watched the V climb so that would tell me the solar is feeding power back to the battery. Correct?
2:49 car off, power to fridge/solar disconnected 13.34 to drop .01 every 10 seconds or so - This would imply I have a parasitic discharge/leak somewhere no?
I tested it but didn't write it down but I think the V with engine running and accessories attached was 14.1. I will have to confirm that.
My setup:
Memphis TN
2005 4runner v8
Brand new oem alternator
100-watt Sunpower rooftop solar - 20 amp controller
Dometic CFX-65 Fridge/Freezer - was set to 4F moved to 30F today
AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA RC 120min (I know there is discrepancy on how that converts to AH) - I was using the OEM 2005 battery up until yesterday. I thought it had kicked the bucket and that was the cause of my performance issue. Not so sure anymore.
Fridge looks
According to this it appears my problem might be the freezer setting. The 4F setting might be the primary culprit. Regardless the battery should still be good for 20 hrs on its own without solar.
I am really confused and have exhausted my knowledge base. Live in Memphis, have basically unlimited direct sunlight the majority of the day to my panel but my old battery wasn't cutting it for the fridge to run all night set at 4F(default) so I figured the 2005 OEM OG battery was the culprit. Apparently/Maybe not the case. I haven't really used the freezer side so after this frustration I have changed it to 30F to see how that goes going forward. I have borrowed a voltmeter and took some general readings. The next test is tonight as I am going to check the voltage when I park the 4runner for the evening, again at 10pm, then again when I go to work in the morning to see what my voltage drop is and see if it's to a dangerous level or not. If there is something else I should be looking at let me know. Any help is appreciated. The fridge is set on the intermediate voltage cutoff setting which is listed below from the manual.
Battery monitor mode LOW MED HIGH
Switch-off voltage at 10.1 V - 11.4 V - 11.8 V
Restart-voltage at 11.1 V - 12.2 V - 12.6 V
I am trying to avoid a dual battery setup, Just seems like super overkill for me but I'm frustrated that my new battery, although not a deep cycle, didn't make a difference for a single overnight use. Not looking for 2-3 days. This could be attributed to a new battery coming off the shelf and needed some charge before it's valid. I didn't have the meter last night to check this. More testing will be needed.
Less than scientific test:
Vehicle has sat in the sun without being started since 11am. Fridge set to 30F.
2:45 pm direct overhead sun with solar running 13.75v average over 1 min with fridge possibly cycling compressor, can't confirm. The temperature was holding steady so probably not.
2:47 pm same setup from above but fridge turned off 13.84v average over 1 min. I watched the V climb so that would tell me the solar is feeding power back to the battery. Correct?
2:49 car off, power to fridge/solar disconnected 13.34 to drop .01 every 10 seconds or so - This would imply I have a parasitic discharge/leak somewhere no?
I tested it but didn't write it down but I think the V with engine running and accessories attached was 14.1. I will have to confirm that.
My setup:
Memphis TN
2005 4runner v8
Brand new oem alternator
100-watt Sunpower rooftop solar - 20 amp controller
Dometic CFX-65 Fridge/Freezer - was set to 4F moved to 30F today
AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA RC 120min (I know there is discrepancy on how that converts to AH) - I was using the OEM 2005 battery up until yesterday. I thought it had kicked the bucket and that was the cause of my performance issue. Not so sure anymore.
Fridge looks
According to this it appears my problem might be the freezer setting. The 4F setting might be the primary culprit. Regardless the battery should still be good for 20 hrs on its own without solar.
Last edited:
