Consensus on LBJ bolts

[the_welfare_wagon]

So I’m sure this has been covered but while doing my rack and control arms I (obviously) had to disconnect the LBJ from the control arms and I stupidly reused the old bolts not realizing this up until a few days ago.

I’ve heard that the LBJ bolts microscopically stretch and re-using them puts them at risk of shearing especially if you have larger tires. Is this true?

For context these bolts are about a year old now so +/- 20k miles and they were never overtight. Torqued right to spec when I first did them and then put back on and torqued to spec again at the end of the recent job.

Are these concerns about shearing legitimate? Should I be looking into replacing them? I’m guessing yes since it’s a very cheap and easy job to do?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

So I’m sure this has been covered but while doing my rack and control arms I (obviously) had to disconnect the LBJ from the control arms and I stupidly reused the old bolts not realizing this up until a few days ago.

I’ve heard that the LBJ bolts microscopically stretch and re-using them puts them at risk of shearing especially if you have larger tires. Is this true?

For context these bolts are about a year old now so +/- 20k miles and they were never overtight. Torqued right to spec when I first did them and then put back on and torqued to spec again at the end of the recent job.

Are these concerns about shearing legitimate? Should I be looking into replacing them? I’m guessing yes since it’s a very cheap and easy job to do?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just saw a 3rd gen with sheared off LBJ bolts from being over tightened on a FB group.

This is up to you. Spiker engineering analyses shows the which bolts are the best.

The consensus is replace the bolts if they been used a few times for piece of mind and always use the bolts that Spiker tested where the best.

 

[Devbot]

Instead of saying "I'm sure this has been covered 1000 times" why not use google or the site search function to find that information you acknowledge is out there? Not to be rude but I swear every single LBJ thread starts with this... even a search as simple as "4runner lbj bolts" leads you to the very thread you're looking for :ranger:

 

[JohnMc]

I think Spiker Engineering did a great job in figuring out what the differences are between the varying OEM bolts, and if other bolts might be better.

Everything you always wanted to know about LBJ bolts

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

Instead of saying "I'm sure this has been covered 1000 times" why not use google or the site search function to find that information you acknowledge is out there? Not to be rude but I swear every single LBJ thread starts with this... even a search as simple as "4runner lbj bolts" leads you to the very thread you're looking for :ranger:

Not sure if your a moderator for this forum but if your not I don’t see why you would care. Not like you own or fund this forum and have to “clean up”

A simple “welfare wagon your an idiot but yes I’d change the bolts” would answer my question and send this thread into the depths of the 1000 others that will never see the light of day

I don’t have enough time in my day to care about how many times a thread has been posted, if I stopped and commented about ever stupid thing I saw on the internet I’d have lived 6 lifetimes already. [emoji482]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HiLife]

[MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION] put those bolts through the ringer for all of us to benefit! His result were very eye opening.

The lbj bolts are the archilles heel of our rigs. Very disastrous when they let go at any speed.
New 8 bolts for $13 would ease my mind going 65mph down the freeway. IIR, those 01-02 bolts held up to repeated loosening and re torquing better than the 1996-2000 bolts.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Umm, unless bolts are torque to yield I reuse them……

I hope I don’t loose friends over this. My rule never failed me…..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Not sure if your a moderator for this forum but if your not I don’t see why you would care. Not like you own or fund this forum and have to “clean up”

A simple “welfare wagon your an idiot but yes I’d change the bolts” would answer my question and send this thread into the depths of the 1000 others that will never see the light of day

I don’t have enough time in my day to care about how many times a thread has been posted, if I stopped and commented about ever stupid thing I saw on the internet I’d have lived 6 lifetimes already. [emoji482]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He is not. Probably just having a bad day or grumpy. He complained on my one post once. We all have bad days...

The Lower ball joints topic has been extremely heavily talked about on this forum to basically death.

It's your call because it's your rig. Do as you see best because you are going to get 50 /50 response on your bolts question..



Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Umm, unless bolts are torque to yield I reuse them……

I hope I don’t loose friends over this. My rule never failed me…..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why would you lose friends over this? There is nothing wrong with that thought and idea. Nor having your opinion on it.

Before the Spiker Engineering testing. I reused bolts and just torqued them to spec. Never had an issue.

Now I just use the best rated bolts when changing the LbJ out.

I still think the snapping of those 4 bolts is due to over torqing and causing the shearing effect. However, I be wrong...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[JZiggy]

Umm, unless bolts are torque to yield I reuse them……

I hope I don’t loose friends over this. My rule never failed me…..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What Spiker revealed is that the coating on the bolt changes the friction which impacts the amount of clamp load the bolt develops when torqued. This coating can degrade with reuse and lower clamp load. More clamp = less fall off

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

He is not. Probably just having a bad day or grumpy. He complained on my one post once. We all have bad days...

The Lower ball joints topic has been extremely heavily talked about on this forum to basically death.

It's your call because it's your rig. Do as you see best because you are going to get 50 /50 response on your bolts question..



Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

For less than 30 bucks I think I probably will end up doing it. I know that these failures mostly occur at low speeds but I can’t imagine the carnage at 70mph. Would probably flip the truck not to mention anyone who’s unfortunate enough to be near me.

Since the consensus is it’s not too urgent I’ll just wait till I get my next paycheck and do it that way so it’s not in the back of my mind.

Peace of mind for that price and 30 mins of my time seems worth it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jgue467]

...

I’ve heard that the LBJ bolts microscopically stretch and re-using them puts them at risk of shearing especially if you have larger tires. Is this true?

They do and can take 1-2 re-uses, ask me how I know. I re-used the bolts once two different lbj replacements over the years. No issues. Replaced them last year with of course OEM and used the Black oem bolts which use the rock guards hence their extra length.

So your call and it may help you sleep at night, LOL.

 

[shadow247]

I'm running 35mm length ARP Chromo Bolts. The OEM Bolts are 30mm, and don't quite give as much thread engagements as I like. I beat the absolute crap out of my rig and so far so good after over a year.

 

[JohnMc]

I just had mine apart doing the front diff swap, and put it back together with the 35mm ARP bolts, part number ARP 663-1004

 

[Mendoncyclesmith]

For how much they cost? Yeah, I'd do them.

Just had my LBJ's replaced, all new bolts, nuts, and pins.

Not doing so is (in my mind) akin to doing the timing belt, but not the water pump and pulleys at the same time. You'd rather risk doing a $1000 over again, to save $150? Good money against bad.

I'm a mechanical moron as soon as gas is involved, I ask dumb, annoying questions on here all the time because of it.

So allow me to help for once and say, yes, replace them, unless you like spending more money later.

McGeorge is who I got the parts through, all OEM, and their customer service was second to none, I'm super impressed.

https://www.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

For how much they cost? Yeah, I'd do them.

Just had my LBJ's replaced, all new bolts, nuts, and pins.

Not doing so is (in my mind) akin to doing the timing belt, but not the water pump and pulleys at the same time. You'd rather risk doing a $1000 over again, to save $150? Good money against bad.

I'm a mechanical moron as soon as gas is involved, I ask dumb, annoying questions on here all the time because of it.

So allow me to help for once and say, yes, replace them, unless you like spending more money later.

McGeorge is who I got the parts through, all OEM, and their customer service was second to none, I'm super impressed.

https://www.mcgeorgetoyota.com

McGeorge is great. They ship quick and they have great prices. My rack was like 300 dollars more expensive at my local dealership as opposed to McGeorge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

McGeorge is great. They ship quick and they have great prices. My rack was like 300 dollars more expensive at my local dealership as opposed to McGeorge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My local dealer is 100% markup compared to Toyotaparts.

And toyotaparts will ship dealer direct and I can pick it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I'd go with either ARP 663-1004 or ARP 673-1004 (torqued to 60-65 ft-lbs) or OEM Toyota 90119-10933 (torqued to 37 ft-lbs).

With either of these, we found that there is not much degradation in preload vs torque for about 3-4 cycles. After that, you'll probably want to bump the torque up a little bit to maintain the same preload.

For other OEM Toyota bolts (red or green), or generic 10.9 Zinc bolts, the degradation was more severe.

I wouldn't worry about reusing bolts from the strength standpoint, unless they get grossly overtorqued.

 

[brillo_76]

I'd go with either ARP 663-1004 or ARP 673-1004 (torqued to 60-65 ft-lbs) or OEM Toyota 90119-10933 (torqued to 37 ft-lbs).



With either of these, we found that there is not much degradation in preload vs torque for about 3-4 cycles. After that, you'll probably want to bump the torque up a little bit to maintain the same preload.



For other OEM Toyota bolts (red or green), or generic 10.9 Zinc bolts, the degradation was more severe.



I wouldn't worry about reusing bolts from the strength standpoint, unless they get grossly overtorqued.

I figured 4 to 6 reuses before trashing the bolts for new ones...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[raty4R]

Can the LBJ bolts be replaced with the truck on the ground or do you have to lift it? I'm thinking of buying a set and replacing them one at a time? My LBJs were replead about 60xxx miles ago. The shop gave me back my new OEM nuts and bolts. They said I didn't need them. Since then these LBJ bolts have been reused twice. Once to replace LCAs and once when replacing CV axles.
thx