Consequences of running with bad CV

[NegroTundra]

Did some pretty rough roads last week and when I got home I noticed grease everywhere from driver side CV. I ordered NAPA CV replacements, which I plan on installing this weekend. I use the T4R for my job, which requires me going offroad quite a bit. Tomorrow I have a job that will require 40+ miles of rough two track road and I cannot push the job back. So, is there anything I should be concerned with in driving on the bad CV? Most certainly I will be using 4wd for the majority of the time, and 2wd of pavement in between home and the jobsite.

Thanks

 

[LittleCaesar]

Try and band clamp the boot to the shaft. Pack some grease in there first.

Have only seen a CV completely fail on a Camry after the owner drove it with a torn boot for over a year.

 

[Rimcrew]

You should be fine. I drove a honda civic with bad CV's for a couple of years before one let go.

 

[JayRolla]

Did some pretty rough roads last week and when I got home I noticed grease everywhere from driver side CV. I ordered NAPA CV replacements, which I plan on installing this weekend. I use the T4R for my job, which requires me going offroad quite a bit. Tomorrow I have a job that will require 40+ miles of rough two track road and I cannot push the job back. So, is there anything I should be concerned with in driving on the bad CV? Most certainly I will be using 4wd for the majority of the time, and 2wd of pavement in between home and the jobsite.

Thanks

Bought my 4runner over 5 years ago. Have put about 100k miles on it. I have had torn front boots since I owned the truck.

I have added new grease and avoid water/mud. I wheel with a spare used OEM CV. I planned to reboot them but went so long I going till they fail and will rebuild some OEMS off ebay or junk yard when they fail.

Usually all they do is start clicking and making noises. Wont cause any issues.

 

[NegroTundra]

Thanks guys.

 

[psraff]

Is the boot itself torn? To help keep the mess down I've sealed a small crack in mine with some silicone or rtv gasket material. It's not perminant, but it will keep grease from covering your undercarrage until you can change it (along with doing what others suggested as well).

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

If you can't duck it fxxx it. In a pinch I've used Duct tape/gorilla Tape for over a month.

 

[StreetCreeper]

My passenger side CV boot is torn in half, and has been since at least 350,000 miles when I got the truck.

I just pump a bunch of grease in when doing an oil change since I'm already down there greasing the driveline.

My truck has 426,000 miles on it now and the CV is still functioning perfectly. I'll get around to fixing it one day – but there are always higher priority jobs to handle first for me.

 

[nobb]

The better solution is to reboot the OEM CV instead of getting a brand new axle, but if so, you would need to make sure the existing axle isn't going to be damaged. If this is the case then I would minimize driving with a bad boot and contaminating the axle. However if you're junking the existing axle and getting a new one anyways, then it doesn't matter.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

I had an 84 s-10 blazer 4x4 that I bought with a torn cv boot. About a month in I got stuck in some heavy mud for about 5 hours of digging, rocking, wheel spinning etc.

If I recall correctly it failed about 3 weeks later on the highway. Nothing catastrophic happened but the ride got very lumpy and clearly something was wrong. I could only limp it off the exit and to a gas station.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jgue467]

Can't believe so many run with torn boots. It's a $35 toyota kit and takes all of 1.5 hours to replace both inner and outer boots (may as well do both since you're pulling the shaft). Luck and enjoy the runner. :cowboy:

 

[StreetCreeper]

Can't believe so many run with torn boots. It's a $35 toyota kit and takes all of 1.5 hours to replace both inner and outer boots (may as well do both since you're pulling the shaft). Luck and enjoy the runner. :cowboy:

I can't speak for others, but I'm just lazy and it hasn't been a problem in 76,000 miles. So it's at the bottom of my to-do list.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I can't speak for others, but I'm just lazy and it hasn't been a problem in 76,000 miles. So it's at the bottom of my to-do list.

Laziness is a legit good reason to avoid getting things done. It's why my hair hasn't been cut in like a year

 

[mtbtim]

If those are OEM CV axles on your rig, it would be a shame to drive on it too long and destroy the joint. You should reboot them and save them as spares. I know people report that Napa are just as good as OEM but I'm not buying it. I guess there's a chance you'll be buying somebody else's 3rd axles they returned to avoid the core charge and Napa rebooted them.

If you decide to reboot, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video for you:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vcCT4UgFUTw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[NegroTundra]

At a later time, I most definitely plan on re-booting the OEM's and keeping them around. Just going with the NAPA's for now. Years ago, put a set of NAPA's in a 2001 Tundra, put 95,000 miles on them with zero problems. For what I do, OEM is not critical for this particular auto part.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I put a good 30k miles on my CRAPA axles with torn boots. When I didn't know any better, I left my OEM CVs as a core, and got the NAPA axles. Boots tore after 4-6 weeks. Lifetime warranty, but lazy.