Consolidated Lighting Info Thread

I recommend the Gy6.35 halogen bulbs as described in this thread here:
Gy6.35 HIR 921 reverse light upgrade (vs high power LEDs) | Tacoma World

They are not LED but they are substantially brighter. I still keep the LED ones in my glove box for spares, but you're not going to find any LED bulbs this bright.

I tried out these halogens as reverse lights.
(Osram 64432 Halostar PRO 35W 12V GY6.35 base 860 Lumens Long Life Halogen)
Here’s my experience.

I ordered 4 to have some spares, and modified one to test it out. Instead of bending the leads I wrapped them in thin solid wire. I believe 24 gauge. Holding the lead in a tweezer and using an alligator clip as a heat sink, so as not to damage the filament, I soldered them. It then fit snuggly in the tail light connector. No bending required.

Pros:
- A lot brighter than the stock bulb.
- Very inexpensive

Cons:
- Very yellow light as compared to my LASFIT bulb, which is whiter
- The bulb gets really hot. In just a minute or so the reverse light clear plastic lens was very hot.
- The LASFIT LED bulb looks brighter and whiter to me. So that’s what I use. (It would be interesting if someone could actually measure the light output of these in the stock housing as a comparison).

I returned two bulbs unused and have two left because I opened the packaging. One has my modification. If anyone wants to buy these bulbs from me I’ll sell them for $13 shipping included. (Cost me $7 each plus shipping from Bulb America). PM me if interested.
 

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I tried out these halogens as reverse lights.
(Osram 64432 Halostar PRO 35W 12V GY6.35 base 860 Lumens Long Life Halogen)
Here’s my experience.

I ordered 4 to have some spares, and modified one to test it out. Instead of bending the leads I wrapped them in thin solid wire. I believe 24 gauge. Holding the lead in a tweezer and using an alligator clip as a heat sink, so as not to damage the filament, I soldered them. It then fit snuggly in the tail light connector. No bending required.

Pros:
- A lot brighter than the stock bulb.
- Very inexpensive

Cons:
- Very yellow light as compared to my LASFIT bulb, which is whiter
- The bulb gets really hot. In just a minute or so the reverse light clear plastic lens was very hot.
- The LASFIT LED bulb looks brighter and whiter to me. So that’s what I use. (It would be interesting if someone could actually measure the light output of these in the stock housing as a comparison).

I returned two bulbs unused and have two left because I opened the packaging. One has my modification. If anyone wants to buy these bulbs from me I’ll sell them for $13 shipping included. (Cost me $7 each plus shipping from Bulb America). PM me if interested.

Can I get a link to the lasfit LED you are using now? I have the Osrams but would like to test each. Thanks!
 
Is there a consensus on which LED bulbs are the best for the license plate illumination?

I don’t know about a consensus, but here’s my opinion.
You don’t want a super bright light to oversaturate your rear camera. Or make your plate too visible to cops :)
Just a low power cool temperature LED. The Philips 168 WLED (white) Ultinon bulb.
Get it from amazon or your local auto parts store. Under $15 for two.

You may also see Philips 194 LED bulbs. They will fit just like 168 bulbs. In the days of incandescents the 194 was a 3.8W bulb. And the 168 was brighter and had a shorter life at 4.9W. I think Philips now makes one LED product for this application and packages it both as a 194 and also as a 168.
 

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Unfortunately the photos are missing from several of the more involved conversions. When I started my Lexus IS projector retrofit (far too long ago) they were still up. The quarantine has provided some time while working from home, to press on with the project. I don’t intend to put together a DIY or build thread, because it was a lot of me fumbling around, trimming and drilling to make these fit as I’d like.
Progress:
4R brackets cut from OEM projector and sandwiches into the IS projector. Here are the templates I made on the work bench to ensure my brackets would drop back into the housing after inserting in the IS projector and lens. They were used pretty heavily and these are an “after” photo.
6e3e78c6605a101b04805d40cec3bfbd.jpg


82edb46e18c1a91f2526c24d66bbaa72.jpg


Lots of trimming and enlarging holes to make these work while trying to keep as much bracket material from the 4R for a strong bond. I used JB Weld to secure. This isn’t done on other retrofits, but I like the idea of more than 3 screws keeping the meat in the sandwich.
69bf628f96ee3a331e51c0aa9ff686a4.jpg

6f0857f06f2438312ecfd2b32655637b.jpg

Next step was to get these into the headlight housing. Again I had to do some trimming to the chrome surround for a flush mount. I tried to show the cuts I made here.
e687511cb08eaced3aa7f9c9284242a5.jpg


d532dbb8fdd7ad4e8e239a00d4c12b7d.jpg


Trimming complete. Here is a shot of the Franken-projector in the 4R housing.
53702439a71fc20492ef12d5cebfc364.jpg


I’ve seen other retrofits that leave a large gap between the 4R shroud and the new IS projector. So I decided to trim the IS shrouds to fit inside the housing.
dffee048ad09a02b693e7a50a4e5a2cc.jpg


This is where I am up to. Test fit the assembly to check for interference between the IS and 4R shrouds. I think it’s pretty good.
Ready for paint - I’ll be painting all the chrome except the IS shroud in Toyota Attitude Black to match my exterior.
0757abfa4ca45b996fa3bcf244844716.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don’t know about a consensus, but here’s my opinion.
You don’t want a super bright light to oversaturate your rear camera. Or make your plate too visible to cops :)
Just a low power cool temperature LED. The Philips 168 WLED (white) Ultinon bulb.
Get it from amazon or your local auto parts store. Under $15 for two.

You may also see Philips 194 LED bulbs. They will fit just like 168 bulbs. In the days of incandescents the 194 was a 3.8W bulb. And the 168 was brighter and had a shorter life at 4.9W. I think Philips now makes one LED product for this application and packages it both as a 194 and also as a 168.


Thanks for the recommendation :hail:
 
Now, a new question.

Why does there seem to be barely any information at all on Alpharex Nova (or other variants) headlights? There have to be alot of these things out there at this point, but we still don't have detailed pictures of the beam patterns, whether the "corner curb" issues seen in other lights are rectified in these, etc.

Ordering these things blind doesn't make any sense, given the issues with other brands like the Morimotos.
 
Last edited:
I tried out these halogens as reverse lights.
(Osram 64432 Halostar PRO 35W 12V GY6.35 base 860 Lumens Long Life Halogen)
Here’s my experience.

I ordered 4 to have some spares, and modified one to test it out. Instead of bending the leads I wrapped them in thin solid wire. I believe 24 gauge. Holding the lead in a tweezer and using an alligator clip as a heat sink, so as not to damage the filament, I soldered them. It then fit snuggly in the tail light connector. No bending required.

Pros:
- A lot brighter than the stock bulb.
- Very inexpensive

Cons:
- Very yellow light as compared to my LASFIT bulb, which is whiter
- The bulb gets really hot. In just a minute or so the reverse light clear plastic lens was very hot.
- The LASFIT LED bulb looks brighter and whiter to me. So that’s what I use. (It would be interesting if someone could actually measure the light output of these in the stock housing as a comparison).

I returned two bulbs unused and have two left because I opened the packaging. One has my modification. If anyone wants to buy these bulbs from me I’ll sell them for $13 shipping included. (Cost me $7 each plus shipping from Bulb America). PM me if interested.

Been using my LASfits in Mammoth for the last 2 nights (Full moon so not as dark) and have to agree with the pros and cons. The Osrams GY6.35s are definitely brighter but boy they get hot. Not that im backing up alot but a bit worried running them for trails like Elephant hill where you do have to back up a few times on the switch backs at the start. While the Osrams were brighter, I'm not sure thats a winning factor for me as Ill be installing some Baja S2 chase lights. If I need the extra light backing up, I could use those.

Another benefit of the LASfit is that its plug and play...I broke a few of the GY6.35s when I initially tried to get them to fit lol. Im sure with practice I could do it well.
 
Hi All - not sure if lighting related, but figured this may be a good starting point. Was changing out my fog light bulbs on my 07 V8 limited, and came across this plug just dangling in the open space surrounding the fog light housing. Does anyone know what this goes to? Looks close to the wiper fluid reservoir, but didn't see any plugs missing a wire...

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
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I read the first post and will continue research but perhaps someone in here can save me some time. I/m looking to just start with the interior lights and checked out both the FyreFlys and Precision LED with there being a significant price difference between the two. There are a wealth of lights also available on Amazon.

Is an LED an LED an LED? Or is there a brand that is better for longevity, not harming your electronics, or any other reason? Some other mods I've done on other cars have all the vendors getting the parts from the same place, just charging different markups so I wanted to find out more in here.

Thank you!
 
I've been researching this online and also with dealer parts departments and wanted to confirm.

I have a 2016 TRD Pro and headlights are abysmal. It looks as if later model 4R's have updated headlights. I've been told I can't swap my older headlights with the newer model (2019+) stock headlights. If that's the case, is there a simple way to "plug & play" with newer LED headlights without risking damage or upgrading other hardware?

Thanks
 

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