control arm clearance
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Rockdawg84
New member
Just go 1.25 all the way around which will make your track the same front and rear. Make sure you by a hub centric spacer like the Spidertrax or the Allpro's.
Good luck
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
I know your title states control arm clearance but you're not referring to suspension spacers are you?
I ask only because I don't know why you'd get different width wheel spacers front to rear. Is there any particular reason you want it to be different?
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00_4runner
New member
I believe that the rear tires don't stick out as far as the front ones. He might be compensating for that. But I could have mixed it up and its the back that sticks out less haha.
aeroneer1
New member
Sorry ya the UCA clearance! So I was thinking getting a little bigger for the rear because I read the rear axle was half in smaller. So I guess my quest is an inch enough to clear the UCA front and rear? Or should I do 1.25"?
Gerdo
New member
True, the rear track is ~1/2" narrower.
The one problem you will have on the front with the 1" wheel spacers is that the stock lugs are longer than 1" (~1.120" - 1.25"). This extra length would need to be cut off or it will interfere with the wheel mounting.
The plus side of going with smaller spacers in front is that it will reduce rubbing some. The larger the spacer (less backspacing of a wheel too) will increase the arc of the front wheels when turning.
The one problem you will have on the front with the 1" wheel spacers is that the stock lugs are longer than 1" (~1.120" - 1.25"). This extra length would need to be cut off or it will interfere with the wheel mounting.
The plus side of going with smaller spacers in front is that it will reduce rubbing some. The larger the spacer (less backspacing of a wheel too) will increase the arc of the front wheels when turning.
hungryeddy
New member
I didn't want to open another thread... and i don't mean to hijack Aeroneers, but do you guys think i'll need spacers to clear 285/70/17 Treadwrights?
Gerdo
New member
Depends on the backspacing and width of your wheels. The stock wheels have a BS of ~4.65", width of 7". The wider the wheel, the tire sidewall will bulge less and also move the center of the tire outward.
A BFG AT (285/75-16) will JUST fit with little to no rubbing on stock wheels.
(all brand/model tires vary slightly in actual size)
hungryeddy
New member
off to find the backspacing of my new FJ wheels...
aeroneer1
New member
Ya check the backspacing, it you have less backspacing then the whole wheel/tire will be outset further, eliminating the need to use spacers.
I think what I'd like to do is get 1.0" for front, and 1.25 for rear, but I'm not crazy about the idea of shortening my lug studs. But I also don't want to rub so much! Hmm.. decisions decisions ..
I suppose I could angle grind them off just a tad to make the studs flush with the 1.0" spacer, then if for some reason i want to remove spacers, the stock setup would probably still work with only 0.125" removed from them. Stock lug nuts and stock lug studs have a lot of threads used, what's 0.125"? :guitar2:
I think what I'd like to do is get 1.0" for front, and 1.25 for rear, but I'm not crazy about the idea of shortening my lug studs. But I also don't want to rub so much! Hmm.. decisions decisions ..
I suppose I could angle grind them off just a tad to make the studs flush with the 1.0" spacer, then if for some reason i want to remove spacers, the stock setup would probably still work with only 0.125" removed from them. Stock lug nuts and stock lug studs have a lot of threads used, what's 0.125"? :guitar2:
aeroneer1
New member
By the way, thanks a lot for this info. This is why I posted this stuff on forum, I would have bought 1.0" and "OH! THEY DON'T FIT!"
sportscarfan
New member
I've got 285/75 Duratrac's on stock 5 stars and have no rub at all on the UCA's. Maybe because it's only on '99 springs? :shrug:
Spacers will only make potential pinchweld-rub worse.
Spacers will only make potential pinchweld-rub worse.
aeroneer1
New member
So I'm running Toytec coil overs up front for about 2.75" of lift, and 285/75R16 won't fit.
I'm still confused what the pinch weld is, can someone post a pic of the pinch weld and why it would rub with spacers?
South-O 4RnR
New member
hungryeddy- I have the FJ rims with 285's. They rub at full turn and I have less than .5" clearance between the tire and UCA. I've ordered a set of 1.25" spacers to (hopefully) fix the issue.
hungryeddy
New member
does anyone know why their sold in pairs and not a set of 4? why would you only want 2?
Gerdo
New member
The higher you lift the 4runner, the more the UCA rotates down and out, pivoting on the upper balljoint.
Here I thought this was a clearance on Upper Control Arms!!! Had my wallet all ready and everything
Some tires are wider and do rub. Also, see above.
285s will rub on stock height and lifted rigs. You will need to do a little cutting and pounding to reduce/eliminate this rubbing. A body lift is the only thing you can do (beside lots of fender cutting or extended bumpstops) to eliminate the rubbing in the top of the fenders when fully stuffing tires. The Kid runs 285s on stock suspension. The more lift you have will reduce the amount of rubbing but they will rub in the same spots as stock suspension, just less often.
The pinchweld is the sharp metal edge where two panels come together and are welded. The pinchweld is behind the plastic inner fender liner (front wheels, rear of the fender).
Below is a re-post from steezemcqueen. Shown is with the inner liner cut away.
"Since my truck has 35's, i figured it was time to trim so i could actually wheel with them. I basically just followed what brian2sun did. I removed the coilover and jacked it up to full bump and trimmed and pounded until it was clear from lock to lock.
here are a few pictures of what i did
Before (only trimmed the fender liner so far)
trimmed and pounded.
Painted and finished
Thats all i needed to do for 35's with a 2 inch body lift and full bump. Less body lift will mean more trimming. However, its unlikely that i will ever get to full bump with the coils that i have in the front. I still need to fully flex out the rear and check if it needs to be trimmed. I did flex it out on a loading dock and it had plenty of clearance."
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South-O 4RnR
New member
I'm actually going with spacers in the front only. (If I understand things correctly) The truck comes from the factory with a wider stance in the front than in the back.
When you lift the truck, your front stance becomes narrower. By adding spacers in the front, you are bringing it back closer to factory spec. The staggered stance also allows for proper/better turning. By making the front wider and rear narrow the tires turning radius will be closer to the same arc and cause less tire scrubbing.
