Control arm lubrication. Antiseize Vs Grease

[hutchison]

had a brain fart.. i am rebuilding all suspension. i keep seeing the LCA camber adjustment bolts are seized, and i keep seeing posts about using anti-seize to remedy this when replacing.

I want to understand about the operation of the joint , so im asking all you experienced rebuilders,

Q, are the threaded bolts that hold the suspension arms in place rotating in the arm bushings?
or are the steel bushings rotating about the bolt?
or are both bolt and bushing clamped tight and the rubber is allowing the joint to flex?.

im in the mindset of using antiseize for threads, which rarely move.

which makes me think if using actual grease like EP (extra pressure ) water proof grease like red n tacky for example would be any better in a rotational joint of metal to metal.

what are your thoughts and experiences?

and what about where you applied the grease on LCA and UCA , and what type you used.

 

[RivMan]

The metal components are held tight, and the rubber deflection provides all of the movement.

-Rob

 

[hutchison]

The metal components are held tight, and the rubber deflection provides all of the movement.

-Rob

this makes it clear that antiseize is the one to go with if the parts are not rotating against each other.
it also outlines why suspension should bolts like these should be torqued on the deck.
is this valid for both upper & lower?

if you use urethane insert bushings inplace of the rubber it could be different? or there is no rotational parts also?

 

[JONBOY345]

Is it possible to remove the LCA Cam Bolts one at a time while the rest of the components (shocks, structs, etc.) are still attached?

Getting a creak/squeak from one side, I'm able to get it to quiet down with some silcone lube for a few days. Was going to hit it with some grease if I can get it apart with relatively little drama to see if I can get some more miles out of these arms before replacing with new OEM arms I recently bought.

 

[techno]

Is it possible to remove the LCA Cam Bolts one at a time while the rest of the components (shocks, structs, etc.) are still attached?

Getting a creak/squeak from one side, I'm able to get it to quiet down with some silcone lube for a few days. Was going to hit it with some grease if I can get it apart with relatively little drama to see if I can get some more miles out of these arms before replacing with new OEM arms I recently bought.

In theory, you could conceivably remove a cam bolt with everything else still in place, but once it's out I suspect you'd have a hell of a time getting it back in. You could try inserting a metal rod from the other end as you pull the cam bolt out just to keep the arm inline, but then what are you going to do? There's nothing else you can take apart to clean and lube up.
Save yourself the hassle and get those new arms in and be done with it all.