cooling problems?

[01thunder]

radiator went out so i replaced it; not problems. while the engine was running a while later, i checked the engine compartment for leaks and noticed the hoses were really hard. i figured air hadn't bled out completely so i went through the process again. again, same thing with the hoses having a lot of pressure. ok. i figure it's the thermostat now because the lower hose and bottom of radiator are cold and top half is hot. replace therm, hoses, but the same thing is happening. pressure is building and the top half is hot and bottom cold. temp is running normal. i doubt the water pump is the problem as it's only 2 years old along with the timing belt and such.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Honestly it sounds OK, yet the only way to know the temp the ECT is seeing from the CTS is through a live data reader. Otherwise it is just speculation.

Did you flush the system out after replacing the radiator? Any loss of coolant?

I have one of these and use it to burp out all the air bubbles in the cooling system after changing a water pump, etc.:
Amazon.com: Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive

 

[01thunder]

sure do. just bought it today. ect?

 

[BrianSD_42]

Dude What are the temps

 

[01thunder]

i don't have gauges. the temp reading on the factory gauge is the same reading, less than half. it's not overheating.

 

[Troybylt]

How did you bleed the air out of the system? Also are you sure your radiator cap is good to go? It may not be opening to let fluid into the reservoir bottle.

 

[Oneluv13T4R]

radiator went out so i replaced it; not problems. while the engine was running a while later, i checked the engine compartment for leaks and noticed the hoses were really hard. i figured air hadn't bled out completely so i went through the process again. again, same thing with the hoses having a lot of pressure. ok. i figure it's the thermostat now because the lower hose and bottom of radiator are cold and top half is hot. replace therm, hoses, but the same thing is happening. pressure is building and the top half is hot and bottom cold. temp is running normal. i doubt the water pump is the problem as it's only 2 years old along with the timing belt and such.

I have thee exact same issue and it's been going on for 2 months and have done all the same things ... My scanner data shows anywhere from 194 - 202 degrees? and the gauge just below half "normal" after driving around town I get home pop the hood and once she relaxes she will dribble out of the top hose where it connects by radiator cap , or sometimes dribble out of radiator cap or sometimes out of the bottom hose where it connects to the radiator? Can't figure it out for the life of me keep hitting dead ends.

 

[LittleCaesar]

ECU, not ECT. Long night at the airport for a flight that got canceled three times.

OEM or Aisin water pump?

A flush may be called for along with a new OEM cap and T-stat.

 

[gamefreakgc]

ECU, not ECT. Long night at the airport for a flight that got canceled three times.

OEM or Aisin water pump?

A flush may be called for along with a new OEM cap and T-stat.

Sort of related, I noticed that my dealer's "Premium" mileage service replaces the radiator cap every 100k miles or so. Food for thought, they might be on to something there.

 

[nevada]

radiator went out so i replaced it; not problems. while the engine was running a while later, i checked the engine compartment for leaks and noticed the hoses were really hard. i figured air hadn't bled out completely so i went through the process again. again, same thing with the hoses having a lot of pressure. ok. i figure it's the thermostat now because the lower hose and bottom of radiator are cold and top half is hot. replace therm, hoses, but the same thing is happening. pressure is building and the top half is hot and bottom cold. temp is running normal. i doubt the water pump is the problem as it's only 2 years old along with the timing belt and such.

radiator caps are cheap, but sometimes they don't come with new radiators. did you change it also?

that said, I don't know that you have a problem. the hoses will get hard, as the system builds pressure. this is what helps to keep it from overheating/boiling. its sounds like its working as designed.

 

[01thunder]

aisin pump done with belt, new stat and cap from toyota, new radiator and hoses. these issues started after i noticed the top tank of rad was cracked and coolant dribbling out. no overheating issues. i was working on an 03 4runner at work, and it had the same thing. changed the rad and stat and still the bottom hose was cool and top hot.

 

[01thunder]

How did you bleed the air out of the system? Also are you sure your radiator cap is good to go? It may not be opening to let fluid into the reservoir bottle.

with one of those lisle brand spill free funnels. they work great and it bled fast, plus i had it running for a while. when i put on the cap, then the pressure starts building. the parts counter told me that there are 2 types of caps, depending on the production date. maybe they gave me the wrong one?

 

[01thunder]

the original cap is rated at 1.1kg of pressure, as stamped on the cap. some are 1.3kg of pressure. i don't know if .02 would make such a difference. i have a 1200 mile trip coming up for spring break and don't want nor need any mishaps.

 

[Troybylt]

I sincerely doubt the cap would make a difference, you had mentioned you installed a new thermostat, where'd you put the jiggle valve, contrary to logic it should be installed at 6 o'clock as stated by the FSM. I have heard that alone makes a difference in bleeding out the air as well as in temperatures.