Cornfed install shop - Denver area

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Shadow07SE

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Guys, I purchased the 3/2 cornfed for my '07 SE and no one in northern CO will touch it. RawHide 4x4 in Ft. Collins put it on the lift and started then decided they didn't want the responsibility due to X-REAS.

I've heard some of you went to Littleton for the install. Anyone familiar with Offroad Solutions north of Denver? I've been told they are the CO Toyota offroad experts. Any experiences? Recommendations?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Depending on your experience with wrenching, I would highly recommend doing it yourself. SPecially if you can get Key to come help you. The hardest part for me was balancing the front shocks with one hand while assembling the spacer and undoing the spring compressor with the other hand.
 
Well my "wrenching" is normally interior work. And its normally not a wrench but a volt meter. Stereos, alarms, etc.
Anyway, the reason I was planning for a shop is the fact that its 22 outside and after the 4+ hours of work I'll probably freeze.
However you building some confidence here as now I'm thinking about throwing it on the jack stands when i get home and trying to install the rear.

I've heard the rear is a lot easier ("that's what she said). Any comments/thoughts on the difficultly of the rear install?

Also what about the spring compressor? The shops are telling me thats a required tool.

Last, estimates on rear install times?
 
You can barrow the spring compressor from Autozone I'm told. I've also heard you can rent them. If all fails buy it and return it 4 hours later.
 
Since its now known you can disconnect the Xreas without harm at the correct point , they'll just pull it out and do it on a wall compressor.

The guy who is going to do mine is just going to disconnect the shock and rehook it back up. They is a certain point to do this and it's not a problem.

For a long time this was a no no , but someone figured it out and it does not seem to be an issue anymore.
 
The rear install only took me 1 hour. That was me working alone taking my sweet time.

The trick to the rear is to use a floor jack to jack up the truck using the rear differental housing. You then place 2 jackstands under the frame and not the axle. Remove the rear tires and lower the floor jack.
 
Alright well after a day of climbing the trails of the National Forest Service to find a Christmas tree and seeing the rest of very nice trucks I think I'll try it in the morning. The truck is covered in mud but its a nice frozen caked on version of mud. DAC saved my ass a couple times due to the foot of snow and ice on the ground.

I digress...I called the AZ on the way home and they have the floor jack I'm looking for (up to 21'') and an extra rental set of spring compressors. I'll probably swing by in the morning, put on 20 layers of clothing (25 degrees outside and snow), and start with the rear and see how things go.

As for the instructions, do I need to remove the shock or just the rear shock bolt? I would think I would need to remove the shock from the rear axel, but I guess I'll find out.

BTW I now have a 20ft christmas tree in my living room and the wife thinks its a bit much. Its officially the 4th largest tree I've owned, and the 3 other ones were in the ground in our last house. I'm going to have to move it over to the stairs to the second floor to put lights on the top. Freaking great!
 
Let me know how it goes. The more I think about it, the more I think i have no clue what the hell I'm doing. :bash:
 
keylay31 said:
Let me know how it goes. The more I think about it, the more I think i have no clue what the hell I'm doing. :bash:
Click to expand...

I can totally relate to that feeling:D
 
After a couple hours and a trip to AZ to purchase some air tools, the back end is installed.
I've started on the front end and back to the forum to search for the disconnect point...I'll let you know how it goes
 
Shadow07SE said:
After a couple hours and a trip to AZ to purchase some air tools, the back end is installed.
I've started on the front end and back to the forum to search for the disconnect point...I'll let you know how it goes
Click to expand...

how long did it take you, how hard was it?
 
Alright its installed. I don't know exactly how long it took but I'd say around 8 hours and that includes two trips to AutoZone (first trip - floor jack, spring compressor, new metric wrenchs; second - air ratchet), watching a bit of the game and snacking. I wasn't really in a rush, but did want to get it completed before it got too late.
The install went fairly well and was not that complicated. I probably spent a good hour or two just trying to get the damn coilover bolts lined up correctly. So here is my cornfed write up...

REAR
Install went fairly quickly. I put the floor jack under the rear diff and jacked it up and put the floor jacks under the frame as recommended. After disconnecting probably more than I needed including the brake line holder and with the floor jack under the rear diff, I jacked up with opposite side with another jack to push the other side even lower. At this point the spring basically falls out. As I was the only one around, I installed the spring compressor and put the spring back into place with the spacer above it. Using the air ratchet I let the spring compressor out and then push the spring into place. Then put everything back together and then put the wheels back on.

FRONT
I started by trying to figure out where to jack and where to put the jack stands. I ended up but the jack stands on the high frame rail and used the floor jack later to assist with the coilover lift. IMO removing the front sway bar is a two person job and I definitely recommend disconnecting the point under the wheel well first. The rest of the take apart was fairly straight forward. The 3rd bolt in the back of the coilover was a big pain in ass and I ended up tearing my gloves. The XREAS disconnect went well and I dropped lost about 2 drops, 1 on each side. I removed the entire coilover and put the new hardware and spring compressors on while it was on my work bench. I don't see how you guys did the install without removing the entire coilover. That just sounds painful. The reinstall went well except for the number of times I had to adjust the top plate to get it aligned with the frame.

RESULTS
The truck looks great.


NEXT QUESTION...
So now that I've saved 400 bucks on the install, my question is should I get the alignment before or after I install the Spidertrax wheel spacers??? I figure I'll order them tomorrow and I've heard the turn around is pretty quick with them. Thoughts?
 
So are you happy!?!? Pictures? Have you driven it around yet? How's the handling/ride? (How about them Broncos? :bash: )

Want to help me?!?! Haha

I wouldn't drive too much without the alignment, i guess it depends on how far you plan on driving in the next couple days.
 
The ride is nice, but the look is even better. As for the alignment, I'm going to repost the question above.

I'm scheduled for Friday, and I have to go to the airport today so at least a 2 hour drive on it. The steering wheel stays pretty straight on the road, so I'm not too concerned. Should I be?
 
Nice work man! You are braver (or not as lazy?) as I! Sounds like we need to have a CO 4Runner meet somewhere soon. You going to upsize your tires next?
 
wait till you put on the spacer's before the alignment. It shouldn't be too bad to drive without it for the short term cause your tires won't wear too much.
 
I have a question about the front install. Step 6 says to "remove the bolt that fastens the back of the upper control arm to the frame mount."

What is this referring to? I was looking at my suspension and was confused. I want to install this thing now that the snow is flying.

Thanks for any input.
 
The instructions provided involve completing the install without removing the coilover completely and disconnecting XREAS. As the spring compressors are fairly dangerous, I took the path of just removing the entire thing and doing the disconnect. It was much easier for me to compress the springs and take everything apart on my workbench then under the truck.

The top bolt is the the bolt holding the coilover together. There are 3 bolts holding the top part of the coilover to the truck. This is the bigger 17 or 19mm bolt above it. You can't remove this bolt without compressing the springs and DEFINITELY make sure you get everything aligned correctly before putting it all back together. Otherwise you'll spend an freaking hour taking the thing apart and putting it back because it move a whole inch and the bottom bolt won't align.

Also there is a great Tundra cornfed install directions out there in internet land that I leveraged. Its not exactly but the great pics definitely help with the explanation.

Last, I forgot to post this earlier, when you put the coilover back in I found it helpful to have someone stand on the brake rotor (don't slip) with the hood open and grab under the hood for leverage to push the control arm down. While standing on it, push down with their legs so the other person can put the bolt through. I did the install almost completely by myself but this part I couldn't do it alone.
 
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