cost to replace timing belt + water pump ?
- Thread starter humboldtrunner
- Start date
cblock406
Member
I just did mine and they were not leaking and I did not replace them either.
thegipper
New member
Are they at least using decent parts like the Aisin kit?
Lindenwood
New member
I shopped around between about half a dozen shops. I had all the parts to do it myself and replace pretty much everything (see list below). I literally turned the first bolt and thought "wow, I really don't feel like doing this). So, the shop I ended up going with charged me $350 for all of it, but several were around $500-- kn Northwest Florida, heh.
Radiator
Timing Belt
Water pump
Thermostat
Cam / Crank Seals
Oil Pump
All new hoses
Radiator
Timing Belt
Water pump
Thermostat
Cam / Crank Seals
Oil Pump
All new hoses
thegipper
New member
I would ask if you can provide the parts. They are seriously upcharging you on that Aising timing belt kit. That kit is 175 bucks from Amazon. Plus it looks like they are using aftermarket cam/crank seals which I would highly suggest you don't let them do that.
Even the aircabinman kit on Ebay that has everything on here (all OEM) is only like 270 bucks. You would just have to pay for their coolant which doesn't look too bad at 20 bucks a gallon. And I would hope that they would not be putting in "reconditioned" antifreeze, whatever the hell that is...
Even the aircabinman kit on Ebay that has everything on here (all OEM) is only like 270 bucks. You would just have to pay for their coolant which doesn't look too bad at 20 bucks a gallon. And I would hope that they would not be putting in "reconditioned" antifreeze, whatever the hell that is...
Driver or passenger seat?
HIMILESV8SPORT
Member
AISIN kits on rockauto are all OEM supplier parts. My V8 was shipped for $175, master toyota tech $150 including installing new spark plugs....hard to beat!
Hi, Bob. I'm new in FC and need timing belt done on my 2002 V6. Wondering if you can post or pm me who did the work for you. Thanks.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Instead of paying a boat load of money for this job, do it yourself.
These 2 videos will show you how to get it done. Make sure to watch Part 2 because we show a much easier way to get the belt on and share other helpful info. Also, read the video descriptions and comments we have pinned because there's helpful information in both those places too.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
These 2 videos will show you how to get it done. Make sure to watch Part 2 because we show a much easier way to get the belt on and share other helpful info. Also, read the video descriptions and comments we have pinned because there's helpful information in both those places too.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
paddlenbike
Member
Like everyone I used Tim's excellent videos for this job. The only possible thing I could add to the great tips and tricks he offered is in regard to positioning of the crank when you go to put the timing belt in place.
Normally you would set the crank and cams to Top Dead Center (TDC). You would then align the marks on the belt labeled left and right cam with the marks on their respective pulleys. But when you attempt to stretch the timing belt onto the crank pulley, you can't pull it tight enough to get it on the proper teeth. It often goes wrong here. From the moment the crank spins the first time it takes up the slack on the non-tensioner side and now you're off a tooth.
After three tries I finally decided to spin the crankshaft and purposely have the crank timing set almost 1-full tooth before TDC. That means you can easily get the belt on and by the time the slack is taken up, the timing is correct. Be sure to spin the engine over by hand several times and triple-checked the alignment of cam and crank timing remained correct.
I have a complete list of parts needed here: Kit
I did a price list with both discount online Toyota parts suppliers and Amazon and found that after free Amazon shipping was considered, it less expensive to order from Amazon EXCEPT for the valve cover grommets if you happen to be doing the valve cover gasket job at the same time.
Normally you would set the crank and cams to Top Dead Center (TDC). You would then align the marks on the belt labeled left and right cam with the marks on their respective pulleys. But when you attempt to stretch the timing belt onto the crank pulley, you can't pull it tight enough to get it on the proper teeth. It often goes wrong here. From the moment the crank spins the first time it takes up the slack on the non-tensioner side and now you're off a tooth.
After three tries I finally decided to spin the crankshaft and purposely have the crank timing set almost 1-full tooth before TDC. That means you can easily get the belt on and by the time the slack is taken up, the timing is correct. Be sure to spin the engine over by hand several times and triple-checked the alignment of cam and crank timing remained correct.
I have a complete list of parts needed here: Kit
I did a price list with both discount online Toyota parts suppliers and Amazon and found that after free Amazon shipping was considered, it less expensive to order from Amazon EXCEPT for the valve cover grommets if you happen to be doing the valve cover gasket job at the same time.
