couple of newbie questions...

[bent77]

hi folks,

hope that everyone has had a great weekend.

so, i just bought my very first 4runner last week. so far, i really like it.

trying to get all the maintenence caught up. it was due for an oil change and needed an air filter so i started with those. obviously air filter was pretty easy. then i went to do the oil. drained fine however getting the filter off really kicked my ass! tried going at it with some of those big oil filter pliers from underneath with no success. then tried going through the wheel well under that little flap. could get my hand on it but thats it. it was tight and i couldnt get a great grip. finally decided to take off the drivers side tire to get a little more room to get after it. took the lugs off but couldnt get the tire off once jacked up?? luckily i figured out that if the wheels are turned hard enough left you get a little more room and can get the filter with realitive ease. so, finished up the oil change and i suppose it went well. no obvious leaks. put in 5.2q but the stick still looked a little low so i add about another 1/3q.

so, my questions are:

1) is the extra 1/3q gonna kill me (my engine)? or just let it go?

2) is there any special trick to getting the tires off?? took the lugs off and the center cap and pulled on it and it simply felt "stuck". didnt want to get after it any harder since i wasnt sure.... i would like to get the fronts off to take a peek at the brakes so i know about what i am working with...

3) jack points - any special jack points on the 4runner?? can you just use that big shield underneath?? i ended up going by the short arm and hope that was okay...

4) i would like to change my fuel filter next. looks very straight forward but i have read a couple of thread where people are talking about the "compression fittings nuts" leaking?? is there anything special about changing or tightening the filter back on?? just take the old one off and put the new one on... tightly... right???

 

[bent77]

so, my questions are:

1) is the extra 1/3q gonna kill me (my engine)? or just let it go?

I change the oil in 3 3rd gens and everytime 5qt 16-20oz gets me to the upper half of the dipstick range. Some people here have to put in 6qts. You're good to go.

2) is there any special trick to getting the tires off?? took the lugs off and the center cap and pulled on it and it simply felt "stuck". didnt want to get after it any harder since i wasnt sure.... i would like to get the fronts off to take a peek at the brakes so i know about what i am working with...

Kick with the bottom of your foot or open palm punch the sidewall of the tire...upper part of the tire

3) jack points - any special jack points on the 4runner?? can you just use that big shield underneath?? i ended up going by the short arm and hope that was okay...

Your owner's manual has pictures of the recommended jack points

thank you for the answers!! glad to know that the oil should be fine, and that there is no special trick for the tires... just a little more muscle on my part. unfortunately i dont have the manual but i have seen a link to it on here so i will check that out!! thanks again for the answer.

if anyone knows for sure about the FF please let me know.

thanks everyone!

 

[65patrol]

Congratulations on your new 4runner! So...here are my short answers to your questions.
-Aluminum wheels will always corrode to steel hubs. You can actually use a large dead-blow hammer (rubber/plastic) to free the tire/wheel assembly. Hammer aggressively on the inside of the tire, while rotating, to loosen the assembly. Once the wheel is removed, apply anti-seize to the hub flange and lip. Clean corrosion from the alluminum rim.
-Do your best to not OVERFILL the crankcase. Use the dipstick to determine the final oil level and determine whether the crankcase needs to be drained slightly. Drain accordingly.
-if accessible, don't be afraid to use the pinch welds on the body beneath the rocker panels. If your jack has a suitable rubber pad on the jack-platform, the pinch welds should provide ample support to jack your vehicle up to change a tire, etc...
-Fuel filters are notorius for frustration. Are the fittings on either end of the filter/fuel lines corroded? If they are, STOP! Use liberal amounts of Kroil or WD-40 and let them soak. Otherwise, secure the fuel filter with an open-ended wrench and go to work on the fittings. Good luck!

 

[4Running Daily]

Q #2

I had the same thing happen with my BMW, just have to kick it all the way around the tire to loosen it up. May even have to hit the back of the tire with a hammer.

 

[bent77]

thanks to both of you!!

you guys are both most helpful.

when i was checking out the FF the other day it had some slight corrosion so i went ahead and hit it up with some PB blaster. i am just debating on whether to do it myself or pay someone else and let it be their headache. really the only thing that i am worried about is getting it back on tight enough not to leak... to be honest, i really dont know anything about the compression fittings people keep talking about in regards to the T4R FF...

 

[65patrol]

Don't panic about compression fittings, less is usually more. If it's a typical nut and ferrule style fitting tighten so it's just past snug (eg. bump the nut up against the ferrule/filter and go 1/2 turn more) over torque = leak. If you are able to get them off (the hard part) fuel filters are pretty forgiving. Remember to depressurize the fuel system before releasing either of the fittings on the filter. Keep a catch basin and rags handy at all times.

 

[bent77]

Don't panic about compression fittings, less is usually more. If it's a typical nut and ferrule style fitting tighten so it's just past snug (eg. bump the nut up against the ferrule/filter and go 1/2 turn more) over torque = leak. If you are able to get them off (the hard part) fuel filters are pretty forgiving. Remember to depressurize the fuel system before releasing either of the fittings on the filter. Keep a catch basin and rags handy at all times.

a lot of good info! thank you.

after reading that, i feel pretty good about it and will try to tackle it tomorrow evening.

 

[TheDurk]

On the wheels, when all else fails, you can loosen the lugs about halfway and then drive in circles in a parking lot--hit the brakes a few times. Try and throw the weight of the car from side-to-side. I learned this on a BMW 7-seires forum. I also learned to put anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the wheel and hub or drum so that I have never had to do this to the 4Runner(also on the mating surface inside the drum, if you ever have those off). I don't use anti-seize on the lugs, however. Just hand torque to 83 ft-lbs. This is very important to avoid brake rotor "warp".

On the FF, make sure you use TWO wrenches to work the fittings. Leave the filter loosely in place until you get the line fittings right. If you try and connect it up when it is securely mounted, you will never get it right.

 

[the great him]

-if accessible, don't be afraid to use the pinch welds on the body beneath the rocker panels. If your jack has a suitable rubber pad on the jack-platform, the pinch welds should provide ample support to jack your vehicle up to change a tire, etc...

dont use your pinch welds, this is not a unibody vehicle, it is a body on ladder frame. use the frame or axles or cross-members. if you use the pinch welds they will crush and cause body damage, trust me i know, i have body damage from a jack as well as from resting the pinch welds on rocks and trees

 

[sportscarfan]

Don't panic about compression fittings, less is usually more. If it's a typical nut and ferrule style fitting tighten so it's just past snug (eg. bump the nut up against the ferrule/filter and go 1/2 turn more) over torque = leak. If you are able to get them off (the hard part) fuel filters are pretty forgiving. Remember to depressurize the fuel system before releasing either of the fittings on the filter. Keep a catch basin and rags handy at all times.

Right!

Just be sure to use a proper fitting wrench! When you are installing the new filter, try starting both fittings by hand before tightening either...this is usually easier said than done.