Crank no start

[4runneracerunner]

Hey guys once again I have a question, I replaced my throttle position sensor and adjusted it with the throttle body off the truck. When I put it all back together, it started like a champ and then it back fired and died. Only thing that is happening now is that it is just cranking and cranking alway, I smell fuel from the driver side but no fuel on intake. I put the little hose off of the fuel pressure Regulator and fuel is coming out of it. So I have fuel, I haven't checked for spark let. I will check for spark tonight. But I changed a couple of vacuum hose's due to being cranked and changed the spark plugs wires because a couple of them got burned by the EGR and driver side header.

I readed on other forms that people bypass the AFM or mass air flow sensor. But don't really understand how?

I did un-plug the EFI fuse and un-plugged the battery and waited about 10 mins but it didn't change anything.

Any help would be nice.

 

[4runneracerunner]

From my understanding I have no spark. I was by myself doing this. When I toke off the spark plug from the distriber, and grounded the wire to the body. I saw no spark did that on a random three plugs. Any ideas on how I can get spark back to to the motor?

 

[SenditTr4]

From my understanding I have no spark. I was by myself doing this. When I toke off the spark plug from the distriber, and grounded the wire to the body. I saw no spark did that on a random three plugs. Any ideas on how I can get spark back to to the motor?

I'd start by checking your engine for codes. Instead of going from plugs take the wire that leads from your ignition coil to your distributor and remove the end that goes into your distributor. Now take that end and hold it very near a grounding point. Don't make direct contact. Have somebody try to turn the engine over and watch for a spark to bridge the small gap between the ignition coil wire and ground point. If you have no luck with that then move to your ignition relay under the hood and inspect the ignition fuse in your drivers side kick panel. An easy way to check the relay (mind you it IS NOT the smart way as it can be bad for the relay and blow it on rare occasion) is to leave the ignition on ACC and slowly remove and insert the relay. 9/10 times if you hear an audible click from the relay engaging then it's alright. If you have no luck with either relay or fuse then give an update.

 

[4runneracerunner]

Okay I will update after that. Today is a busy day for me and my family, i probably won't have time til next weekend. Or later tonight. Thank you for the info. I will kept you y'all updated.

 

[nicnmike]

Hey guys once again I have a question, I replaced my throttle position sensor and adjusted it with the throttle body off the truck. When I put it all back together, it started like a champ and then it back fired and died. Only thing that is happening now is that it is just cranking and cranking alway, I smell fuel from the driver side but no fuel on intake. I put the little hose off of the fuel pressure Regulator and fuel is coming out of it. So I have fuel, I haven't checked for spark let. I will check for spark tonight. But I changed a couple of vacuum hose's due to being cranked and changed the spark plugs wires because a couple of them got burned by the EGR and driver side header.

I readed on other forms that people bypass the AFM or mass air flow sensor. But don't really understand how?

I did un-plug the EFI fuse and un-plugged the battery and waited about 10 mins but it didn't change anything.

Any help would be nice.

If fuel is coming out of the little hose, the vacuum line which is on top, then your regulator is shot and you need a new one. This happened to me and my truck would not start either. The bigger line is the return line and fuel should be coming out of that one.

 

[4runneracerunner]

I agree, the vacuum hose doesn't have anything coming out of it. The bigger hose is the one I toke off to see if fuel was coming out. Me and my friend are going to go over a lot of the motor this weekend. To make sure we have spark and fuel and all of the little things to limitant from the process before I go out and buy things.

 

[4runneracerunner]

Update, so it fired right up when I came down this weekend, and so I turn it off and adjusted some things and then it fired right back up but then it wouldn't start again once I got it going again? I changed out the EFI relay under the hood. The fuel pump wasn't turning on. Anything else to check?

 

[4runneracerunner]

Just checked for spa ark. I have spark from the ignition coil and from spark plugs, checked fuses, everything was good. F**K I can't firgure this out

 

[4runneracerunner]

I'd start by checking your engine for codes. Instead of going from plugs take the wire that leads from your ignition coil to your distributor and remove the end that goes into your distributor. Now take that end and hold it very near a grounding point. Don't make direct contact. Have somebody try to turn the engine over and watch for a spark to bridge the small gap between the ignition coil wire and ground point. If you have no luck with that then move to your ignition relay under the hood and inspect the ignition fuse in your drivers side kick panel. An easy way to check the relay (mind you it IS NOT the smart way as it can be bad for the relay and blow it on rare occasion) is to leave the ignition on ACC and slowly remove and insert the relay. 9/10 times if you hear an audible click from the relay engaging then it's alright. If you have no luck with either relay or fuse then give an update.

I check the relay and changed it out with a new one from the junk yard and then it starting making that click, the old one did not. Ummmm

 

[4runneracerunner]

Sorry for all of the post. Just doing a little here due to me having a 1 year old, but anyways I took off the cap to see if the rotor was spinning, witch it is. But the cap you can see where it isn't hitting the contact points. It's hitting the hard plastic it looks like and not the metal points, so I'm on my way to the store to get a new cap and rotor. Hopefully maybe that solves the problem.

P.S I have no CEL at the moment. Will update if one pops up

 

[4runneracerunner]

So still no start after changing cap and rotor. And still just cranking. I have spark and fuel, I tried to jump the FB and B+ and didn't start either. My last guess will be the crank or cam sensor. If these are on easy to change. But my guess why would it start and not start again? Something is intermittent maybe a wire or something but that comes to mind that it's only been doing this since it made a huge back fire? Unmmmmm something happen not to sure what?

Only code I had was 27 and 4 I check it three times. The 27 is the rear o2 sensor and only reason why that code was up was because I had un-plugged. But I can't find out what 4 is. Or maybe it is my ignition control module ( ICU ) ? Never been changed before.

The ignition coil has been changed then 6 months ago due to having hard starts and I tested it and it did not last.

That's it for this weekend. Or help will be nice

 

[SenditTr4]

I check the relay and changed it out with a new one from the junk yard and then it starting making that click, the old one did not. Ummmm

Seems like you had a couple problems hit at once..if you've went over spark from coil to each plug then spark shouldn't be an issue. I wish i could give more advice... Code 14 would indicate igniter issues i THINK. so that may be it and you're just missing the 1 blink. Might check that again. And i would say it could be a lack of pressure in the fuel system but that doesn't make much sense seeing as it crank right up after sitting for a period of time. If anything it would lose pressure from sitting... Im in the same boat right now with 4runner issues. Mines running but like absolute garbage...with NO CODES. Haha it sucks. Went through the entire EGR system today because the symptoms but that wasn't it. All the valves and lines checked out alright. It can be frustrating!

 

[4runneracerunner]

Oh yes it sucks! Lucky mine is off-road only, I still have my full size as my daily driver. But yea I check every spark plug with what look like even spark. I check the coil resistance and that checked out to be okay I got 12.87 volts. Just my only last guess would be a $200 part witch is the ignition control module. Might have to go to the junk yard again and get a couple of them before buying a $200 one.

Kept me updated on your truck dude. If you fix yours let me know and how you did so.

 

[SenditTr4]

Oh yes it sucks! Lucky mine is off-road only, I still have my full size as my daily driver. But yea I check every spark plug with what look like even spark. I check the coil resistance and that checked out to be okay I got 12.87 volts. Just my only last guess would be a $200 part witch is the ignition control module. Might have to go to the junk yard again and get a couple of them before buying a $200 one.

Kept me updated on your truck dude. If you fix yours let me know and how you did so.

Yeah its my DD since I'm married now my wife drives my full size. Lol. Looking forward to hearing how you get yours running! Will keep ya posted on mine

 

[4runneracerunner]

Our Toyota are more fun they can go anywhere! And yea I will kept posting on this form until it is fixed! Only down side is I can only work on it on the weekends. It's my dads house. Only go down to work on the truck and do my laundry

 

[SenditTr4]

Our Toyota are more fun they can go anywhere! And yea I will kept posting on this form until it is fixed! Only down side is I can only work on it on the weekends. It's my dads house. Only go down to work on the truck and do my laundry

Well after going through the egr and every plug and wire i thought it may be an injector....the injector closest to where fuel comes to the Schrader valve was unplugged!!! I must've knocked it loose while letting pressure out of the line to replace my fuel filter. I'd be a genius if i were a monkey! Lol

 

[4runneracerunner]

Did that fix your issues? The vavle isn't it under the upper intake? On the passenger side? I wounder if that if that is my problem

 

[SenditTr4]

Did that fix your issues? The vavle isn't it under the upper intake? On the passenger side? I wounder if that if that is my problem

YEAH ITS RUNNING GOOD AGAIN!!! The valve is located near the FPR(fuel pressure regulator) on drivers side. 17mm i believe..heres a pic to help show its near the visible fuel rail toward the front of the engine.

 

[4runneracerunner]

I'm going to have to check that out this up coming weekend! Because when I put my throttle body back on. It was kinda tough, so I could of knocked it lose or something huh?

 

[SenditTr4]

Well Idk if that's your solution to it not starting. Engine would definitely start if just one injector got knocked loose. And if you managed loosen the Schrader valve enough to lose fuel pressure then it would spraying (if your fuel pump was good) out of the valve itself. Maybe next time you go to crank it loosen that valve and see if you have good pressure behind it when you're trying to start the engine. It should be enough to spray pretty hard and messy haha. At least that will tell you if your pump is putting out decently.

Side thought: if you took your intake hose off of your throttle body make sure your PCV hose made it back on okay. These 3.0 depend on vacuum and without Positive Crankcase Ventilation you can count on it having problems. Mine would try to turn over but not actually start and run without the PCV hose on.