crank pulley bolt

[atcpup]

Can someone post the part number for a 2000 3.4l crankshaft pulley bolt? I have searched the forums and a few Toyota parts sites (and Amazon) to no avail.Getting ready to perform timing belt replacement and don't won't to reuse the bolt. I did purchase this kit after reading many post here on the subject of timing belts
Toyota 3 4 V6 Aisin TKT 005 Complete 16 Pcs Timing Belt Pump Kit | eBay

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Can someone post the part number for a 2000 3.4l crankshaft pulley bolt? I have searched the forums and a few Toyota parts sites (and Amazon) to no avail.Getting ready to perform timing belt replacement and don't won't to reuse the bolt. I did purchase this kit after reading many post here on the subject of timing belts
Toyota 3 4 V6 Aisin TKT 005 Complete 16 Pcs Timing Belt Pump Kit | eBay

90105-16031 Bolt for a 96-98

90119-16006 Bolt for 99-02

 

[atcpup]

Thank You!

 

[Manic]

90105-16031 Bolt for a 96-98

90119-16006 Bolt for 99-02

What is the difference between the bolts?

Thanks ahead!

 

[Chuckles89]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ue-specification-discrepancy.html#post2245419

 

[jsukey]

Make sure you use an adequate torque wrench for that crank pulley bolt, and make sure it is torqued all the way down!! Had mine come completely out while I was driving it. The timing belt and water pump had been done right before I bought it, and he either didn't use a new bolt, or he didn't torque it down properly. The pulley slipped forward on the crank, and completely ground down the slot for the woodruff key. I either had the option to tear apart the engine and replace the crank, or just replace the entire engine. It turned out to be cheaper to just do an engine swap. Total cost, around $2700 after buying a low mileage engine, paying for the labor to swap my supercharger over to the new motor, and then install it. I had friend labor prices at my buddies shop.

 

[atcpup]

Make sure you use an adequate torque wrench for that crank pulley bolt, and make sure it is torqued all the way down!! Had mine come completely out while I was driving it. The timing belt and water pump had been done right before I bought it, and he either didn't use a new bolt, or he didn't torque it down properly. The pulley slipped forward on the crank, and completely ground down the slot for the woodruff key. I either had the option to tear apart the engine and replace the crank, or just replace the entire engine. It turned out to be cheaper to just do an engine swap. Total cost, around $2700 after buying a low mileage engine, paying for the labor to swap my supercharger over to the new motor, and then install it. I had friend labor prices at my buddies shop.

Wow!! Right now, I'm torn between doing it myself or having a trusted shop do it for $350 (that's with me supplying parts). I'm a fairly descent shadetree mechanic from my old Mustang 5.0 days but this bolt and aligning everything back up are concerning me. My rig is a 2000 with 134k on the odo and, from what I can tell, has never had the timing belt done. I did order the correct bolt and this kit from ebay:

Toyota 3 4 V6 Aisin TKT 005 Complete 16 Pcs Timing Belt Pump Kit | eBay

Also, will be putting red coolant in as it has green right now. Thanks for your input!

 

[Brveagle]

There is nothing hard about the timing belt, it's just a lot of stuff to take off and remember where it goes. Kind of an fun job when you are reassembling.

I would order the later bolt and torque to increased torque specs. It's a noninterference motor so you can't mess anything up if you don't assemble it correctly.

 

[amalik]

Make sure you use an adequate torque wrench for that crank pulley bolt, and make sure it is torqued all the way down!! Had mine come completely out while I was driving it. The timing belt and water pump had been done right before I bought it, and he either didn't use a new bolt, or he didn't torque it down properly. The pulley slipped forward on the crank, and completely ground down the slot for the woodruff key. I either had the option to tear apart the engine and replace the crank, or just replace the entire engine. It turned out to be cheaper to just do an engine swap. Total cost, around $2700 after buying a low mileage engine, paying for the labor to swap my supercharger over to the new motor, and then install it. I had friend labor prices at my buddies shop.

$2,700 mistake for a $7 bolt & a good torque wrench.

This is why used cars suck sometimes.

 

[Mark_BC]

I was watching a Youtube video on this and apparently you need 200 ft-lbs, that's quite a bot of force, not too easy to get. He made a special tool to loosen it.

 

[animator]

I was watching a Youtube video on this and apparently you need 200 ft-lbs, that's quite a bot of force, not too easy to get. He made a special tool to loosen it.

217 if I remember correctly. And yes, it's a lot. I made a tool with an extra long handle to hold my crank pulley while I used a cheater pipe on my breaker bar to remove it. For torquing it down, I basically laid on my side on the ground, with feet braced on the tire and then gave it ever living hell until it the torque wrench clicked.


I re-used my original bolt though, at the advice of the guys at the toyota dealership I got the parts from. They said that they always re-use them unless they're damaged. 40k+ miles later, I've not had any issues.

 

[jsukey]

$2,700 mistake for a $7 bolt & a good torque wrench.

This is why used cars suck sometimes.

Agreed. Couldn't have seen that coming though. It could have easily happened to him, just as it did me. I had the receipt from the job when it was done. It was a shadetree mechanic. Highly unlikely that he would take responsibility for it.

I was watching a Youtube video on this and apparently you need 200 ft-lbs, that's quite a bot of force, not too easy to get. He made a special tool to loosen it.

You are correct. One of the bolts requires 217 ft lbs of force. The tool is very easy to make though.

 

[jsukey]

I've always read that they need to be replaced. It makes sense. When you're torquing a bolt down that much, theres bound to be some stretching done to it. For $7 extra dollars, it's definitely cheap insurance after what I went through.

 

[animator]

I've always read that they need to be replaced. It makes sense. When you're torquing a bolt down that much, theres bound to be some stretching done to it. For $7 extra dollars, it's definitely cheap insurance after what I went through.

Problem I ran into was the dealership I use for parts doesn't stock that bolt, and it would have taken a few extra days to get it it, and my window for doing the work was quite slim. And if the guys doing those jobs every day say it's not necessary, I tend to take their advice...

 

[jsukey]

Problem I ran into was the dealership I use for parts doesn't stock that bolt, and it would have taken a few extra days to get it it, and my window for doing the work was quite slim. And if the guys doing those jobs every day say it's not necessary, I tend to take their advice...

I can understand the problem with the timing. I'm not saying those guys are right or wrong. I do know that this topic has been beat to death though. I just look at the facts. Torquing a bolt down to 217 ft lbs puts a huge strain on it. Metal fatigue is real, and it could absolutely affect it. It's the same reason you don't reuse head studs when rebuilding an engine. Some people may be okay with it, but unfortunately some people only learn their lesson when it comes back to bite them. I'm not saying it's going to happen to you. You might get away with it 99 times out of 100. I'm not willing to take the chance to be that 1 though. From my experience, it's not worth it when I can simply spend $7 on a new bolt. I didn't mention the extra cost that I incurred when it happened. I was working 4 hours away from home when it happened. I had to rent a car to finish out my week and a half shift, then I had to rent a U-haul and trailer in order to get it home. One gigantic , expensive PITA it was!!

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Problem I ran into was the dealership I use for parts doesn't stock that bolt, and it would have taken a few extra days to get it it, and my window for doing the work was quite slim. And if the guys doing those jobs every day say it's not necessary, I tend to take their advice...

No dealer in your area had one in Plano/Dallas area? Wow. Camelback in Phoenix stocks them. I reused mine once, the second time, it was replaced.

I can understand the problem with the timing. I'm not saying those guys are right or wrong. I do know that this topic has been beat to death though. I just look at the facts. Torquing a bolt down to 217 ft lbs puts a huge strain on it. Metal fatigue is real, and it could absolutely affect it. It's the same reason you don't reuse head studs when rebuilding an engine. Some people may be okay with it, but unfortunately some people only learn their lesson when it comes back to bite them. I'm not saying it's going to happen to you. You might get away with it 99 times out of 100. I'm not willing to take the chance to be that 1 though. From my experience, it's not worth it when I can simply spend $7 on a new bolt. I didn't mention the extra cost that I incurred when it happened. I was working 4 hours away from home when it happened. I had to rent a car to finish out my week and a half shift, then I had to rent a U-haul and trailer in order to get it home. One gigantic , expensive PITA it was!!

^^ Totally agree. Same reason to replace the lower ball joint bolts as well!

 

[animator]

No dealer in your area had one in Plano/Dallas area? Wow. Camelback in Phoenix stocks them. I reused mine once, the second time, it was replaced.

No, and I was just as surprised. I figured I could drive down and grab one, but nope, they were not stocked. Next timing belt, I'll probably replace mine as well...