Crank pulley tool?

Register to hide this ad
Thanks. I will also get the tensioner tool.

I was planning on just replacing the timing belt alone, even though I know you are suppose to replaced all the pulleys and water pump. You guys think I should be fine or just order the kit from aircabinman from ebay and do everything?
 
Do it all. I'm doing mine Thursday. I got my crank bolt and all the other bits..timing belt,water pump,thermostat,tensioner,new belts and sweet Toyota red.
 
The water pump for sure. It has less life expectancy than the belt, TBH. I think doing the idlers is worthwhile, but ok with every other belt if you stick to the 90k interval. I do 120k on the belt (they really break very rarely, and usually only because the WP leaked on it, or an idler or the WP seized, or the tensioner went soft) but then I do EVERYTHING, including the hydraulic tensioner. That's every twelve years for me, so no big deal.
 
Last edited:
lucky you that there is a tool for it now that is easy found. I had to fashion one out of bar stock I had with the 2 12mm bolt holes and a huge hole for the crank bolt socket.
 
I'd always replace the water pump while in there.
As far a the idler pulleys - if they feel good I don't replace them.
But when in doubt, replace them.
 
It's not hard making your own. Plenty of drawings on laying out the holes. And not expensive.
2277bf1e91f38661eadd0e09fc3e4b94.jpg
5849ee6da8b501f3130f2738c0e7e913.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That's the one I used. It got a little bendy when I re-torqued the crankbolt to the proper spec, but it got the job done.

....and I returned it to Amazon when I was done...no questions asked. :dance:

LMAO! That's as bad as a woman buying a dress for a nice occasion, and leaving the tags on to return it the next day.
 
You can get the bolt off with the starter bump trick. Then a good long air impact to get it back on and "torqued"...

Though, I suppose you can do it right! :yo:

-Charlie
 
The water pump for sure. It has less life expectancy than the belt, TBH. I think doing the idlers is worthwhile, but ok with every other belt if you stick to the 90k interval. I do 120k on the belt (they really break very rarely, and usually only because the WP leaked on it, or an idler or the WP seized, or the tensioner went soft) but then I do EVERYTHING, including the hydraulic tensioner. That's every twelve years for me, so no big deal.



Alright, I will do everything then. I don't work on Toyota much, Mercedes mostly.

If I do everything, I don't need the tensioner tool right?

Do I also need to buy the cam pulley tool? I had to use one on a 98 Camry.
 
Alright, I will do everything then. I don't work on Toyota much, Mercedes mostly.

If I do everything, I don't need the tensioner tool right?

Do I also need to buy the cam pulley tool? I had to use one on a 98 Camry.

Yes, if you do the tensioner, the Schley compressor is useless. Just cut the belt off. Then install, the new tensioner, and pull the pin once everything is in place and in time.

Cam pulley tool only if you do the cam seals. I'm of the leave them alone if they look good school. Maybe at 240K I will.
 
Last edited:
Just did this job a couple weeks ago. I used a small cordless 20v Dewalt 1/2 inch impact to break pretty much all the big bolts while the belt tension was on them.

If you do cam seals (I did):
For the camshaft sprocket bolts I used the impact with a 10mm? socket and extension through the hole in the sprocket bracing against a bolt behind it to keep it from spinning and it worked like a champ.

Just like this, but using the impact instead of a breaker bar:
https://youtu.be/in4VdfnHdI0?t=22s

Watch from around 20s to about 1:30.

I think the impact is worth it's weight in gold though, made everything easy and could fit in some pretty tight spaces. Bought my tbk off ebay as well and had all of those parts in it. Just a different seller.


To torque:
I didn't have a pulley holder. So I used a chain wrench with a cut piece of old timing belt material that was the same circumference as the sprocket. You wrap the cut piece of old belt material around the cam sprocket and tape the belt ends together to protect the sprocket teeth from the chain wrench. Use the chainwrench around the now protected sprocket to hold it in place while you torque the bolt down. I used this method for the crankshaft as well with one of the old drive belts

Good luck!
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,044
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top