Crank timing wheel position (1GR-FE)

[andrewdn]

Hi All

I have searched and looked at every picture that I can find, but I just can't find the position that the "crank pick up wheel" should be fitted.

I sent the crank into the engineering firm for checking and polishing. They removed the "wheel" without making markings.:gun4:

I would really appreciate if someone could tell me where the dot on the "wheel" faces, when the motor is on TDC.



Thank you

 

[jimithing]

I don't know the answer to your question but I just have to ask - what do you have going on that you had to pull the whole engine?

 

[andrewdn]

I don't know what this customer was thinking. Maybe he thought, because it's a Toyota, it doesn't need a service. In the end, the motor overheated, dropped 1 valve seat, and the motor seized.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Holy hell! Did they never change the oil on that thing!?

You gotta give us details, I haven't seen a motor that sludged since our older 3.0L V6 sludge factories!

Getting back on topic, unfortunetly I wish I had the answer to your question. Our factory service manual doesn't really identify the part itself, in fact there are no accurate pictures in the manual that show where it goes (some of the drawings don't even have the flat side). The instructions on engine dissasembly only deal with stripping the engine down to a long block and neglect to mention anything about the ring.

I can't find any accurate pictures on the web that show where that ring is located, though from one picture I saw it appears as if the crankshaft key lines up with the dot on the timing ring.I will see tomorrow if any of my co-workers are doing a timing chain cover on a 1GR-FE or if we have an old one lying around.

One more thing, you guys locked the cam phasers when you reinstalled them onto the camshafts right?

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

Reminds me of my friends truck when the used engine we got saw at most three oil changes in its life. (68,000 miles) the engine you posted was the same as well, an 03-04 4runner 1GR.

^that was after we cleaned it up as much as we could and changed the vvti actuators.

 

[andrewdn]

Giving details is depressing. :sobbing: This motor only has 145 000km/90 000 miles on it. This is such a great motor with potential for huge mileage, and it takes one idiot to ruin it all. I don't know the history of the vehicle, as it's a new customer. From what I can see, it seems as if this motor has run hot a few times, but got shut off in time before causing damage. It was this last, long trip that he was on, hat finally sealed it's fate. The bottom end wasn't bad considering the sludge. He was lucky that the valve seat dropped and locked the motor, or it would have been a lot worse. The oil was already leaking out the filter. I was amazed at how the engineering firm got all the parts that clean, thanks to chemicals and ultrasonic washers.

When you say cam phasers, I take it you are talking about the vvti module. I had to strip it cause of all the sludge inside the unit, and in the tension part behind the "seals". When I assembled the unit. I did not align the valve with the hole at first. I tightened the 3 bolts and then turned the center part by hand and it locked. This way I knew that the internal unit was free and not binding.

 

[galactic_04]

Did you have the block machined? I found (from a friend's experience) that you really need to have it done with the sleeved motors when they overheat. His was rebuilt so well and looked great, but he skipped the machining step on the 2GR and the headgasket would never seal. It was a 30k motor that had overheated before given to him. I'd find a way to fill that thing with antifreeze and leave it overnight. If coolant is coming out the headers in the morning... not good...

 

[andrewdn]

I believe it would have been checked for straightness. The engineering firm I use are quite thorough. The more they find wrong, the more money they can make lol.

Do you by any chance have a pic of that motor from the front. I am looking for any pick from the front so that I can see the relationship between the timing wheel and the crank.

 

[aha2988]

I believe it would have been checked for straightness. The engineering firm I use are quite thorough. The more they find wrong, the more money they can make lol.

Do you by any chance have a pic of that motor from the front. I am looking for any pick from the front so that I can see the relationship between the timing wheel and the crank.

I have a haynes manual at home that has the info in it but thats of no use to you right now lol. If your close to an autoparts store they should have one with pictures of this peace in there overhaul section. I'll check when i get off work and post up if theres anything helpful for you. I know it sounds lame that a haynes manual would have info that a toyota service manual wouldn't but I've also had toyota service departments tell me that there arnt any coolant drain valves on my V8 engine block; however, I can kindly point them out to anyone.

 

[andrewdn]

Thanks. I really appreciate it. I could only get the Max Ellery manual here, and it has nothing on this wheel

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Okay, so no one is doing a timing chain Cover, but a Co worker has an old 2.4L bottom end laying around. That ring mounts onto the crankshaft with the dot directly inline with the key way.

 

[andrewdn]

I did a search for "1gr crank"earlier, and downloaded most of the ones where you can see the wheel. None of them showed what I was looking for, but a few of the pics show that the -2 teeth points in a similar direction as the #2 big end journal.If I do that, the dot is in line with the kew way/ TDC. I still was not 100% sure, but with your findings now, I am satisfied and can continue assembling the rest of the timing system.

It is so easy just to say "thank you", but I want everyone who added something, or went out of their way to look for the answer, to know, that I REALLY appreciate your efforts. Thank you so much. :zoom:

 

[aha2988]

I did a search for "1gr crank"earlier, and downloaded most of the ones where you can see the wheel. None of them showed what I was looking for, but a few of the pics show that the -2 teeth points in a similar direction as the #2 big end journal.If I do that, the dot is in line with the kew way/ TDC. I still was 100% sure, but with your findings now, I am satisfied and can continue assembling the rest of the timing system.

It is so easy just to say "thank you", but I want everyone who added something, or went out of their way to look for the answer, to know, that I REALLY appreciate your efforts. Thank you so much. :zoom:

damn i was to late lol heres the manual page with comformation!!

 

[andrewdn]

Thanks aha2988. It's never too late! I now also have visual confirmation. That's why I say a "thank you" is almost not enough. BlackWorksInc gets hold of colleagues and looks for someone doing a timing chain. You got the book out, took pics and uploaded them. Between t4r.org and it's members, I am now out of a tight spot. Thank you all again.

 

[galactic_04]

I'm trying to get a larger version

 

[bigphil86]

crank timing wheel

Hello,

the part you took a picture of for the crank timing wheel... Do you know where I can get my hands on that part? I have been searching all over the internet, and have been calling junkyard after junk yard, and everyone keeps on telling me that I have to buy the ENTIRE crankshaft assembly in order to get that gear. Can anyone help me? Do you know the actual name or part number? Thank you in advance

 

[Bachjow]

damn i was to late lol heres the manual page with comformation!!

Definitely not too late. This is the info I've been searching for all day. So the key is the marker to match to the paint to find crank shaft TDC. Nice.