Crankshaft bolt tool help!

[Stephen363]

Hey all,
I am in need of a tool (home made or purchased) to hold the crankshaft pulley while I tighten the bolt on my 1998 V6 3.4L 4runner. I did a quick search of the site but didn't find anything readily available. I'd be happy to discuss a purchase of old manufactured tools, home-made ones, or a loaner deal where I'd pay for all shipping and be happy to include a few extra bucks or a gift card for lending me it. If you guys know of any threads or interested parties please let me know! I've tried a couple home-made options on the internet but they aren't strong enough and I don't want to damage any of the components.

Thanks!

 

[baja1]

certainly not hi-tech but I just used a 4x4 with two holes drilled that line up with the holes in the pulley with a couple long 3/8 bolts, between em a hole large enough to accommodate the socket. worked good!

 

[ztphillips93]

Hey all,
I am in need of a tool (home made or purchased) to hold the crankshaft pulley while I tighten the bolt on my 1998 V6 3.4L 4runner. I did a quick search of the site but didn't find anything readily available. I'd be happy to discuss a purchase of old manufactured tools, home-made ones, or a loaner deal where I'd pay for all shipping and be happy to include a few extra bucks or a gift card for lending me it. If you guys know of any threads or interested parties please let me know! I've tried a couple home-made options on the internet but they aren't strong enough and I don't want to damage any of the components.

Thanks!

I just finished my timing belt water pump job and as Baja1 said. Use wood. I drilled about a 1” hole in the center of a 2x4 about 6” from the end. Then drill 2 smaller 3/8” holes about 3 inches apart with the 1” hole centered between the two. Put 2 bolts and nuts through your holes and they will capture the holes on the crankshaft pulley. Make sure the piece of wood is going underneath the passenger side frame rail. Doing this I was able to torque my crank bolt to about 200lbs. Cheaper than buying a tool. Good luck!

 

[TheDurk]

I just finished my timing belt water pump job and as Baja1 said. Use wood. I drilled about a 1” hole in the center of a 2x4 about 6” from the end. Then drill 2 smaller 3/8” holes about 3 inches apart with the 1” hole centered between the two. Put 2 bolts and nuts through your holes and they will capture the holes on the crankshaft pulley. Make sure the piece of wood is going underneath the passenger side frame rail. Doing this I was able to torque my crank bolt to about 200lbs. Cheaper than buying a tool. Good luck!

If you do this, do NOT put the bolt holes on the centerline of the 2x4. Angle them. Then leave plenty of wood PAST the holes. Don't put the holes right at the end. Otherwise that 2x is likely to split.

Ex-carpenter here.

Like this"

Yes, I should have used better bolts, but it worked fine.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I made mine out of flat stock the picture and the pattern I used are on my 1997 SR5 build and repair thread. I’ve used it a bunch of times.


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[MaineRunna]

I use an impact gun, but I am assuming you don't have one of those. How about holding it with a strap wrench?

 

[thegipper]

I use an impact gun, but I am assuming you don't have one of those. How about holding it with a strap wrench?

It sounds like he got the bolt off but he needs a way to hold it while torquing it to spec.

If all else fails and you cannot fab anything up, you could try the rope trick (google/youtube search it).

 

[Stephen363]

Thanks guys. I'll try the 2x4 trick. Thanks for the pic and advice on offsetting the holes too. Never would have thought of that!

 

[weekendclimber]

Here are some measurements, though this diagram is of a steel plate welded to a steel bar:

What I would recommend though is a 3/8" flat bar piece of metal connected in a "V" at one end. I can snap a picture later tonight of what I have if you need more of an idea (I didn't have one in my timing belt album for some reason). The thicker the metal the better, don't end up with it looking like this:

 

[Fadiddy]

I use an impact gun, but I am assuming you don't have one of those. How about holding it with a strap wrench?

^This.

Rent or borrow an electric impact gun (preferably one that is NOT cordless). Works like a champ every time for me when I need it.

 

[alumarine]

^This.

Rent or borrow an electric impact gun (preferably one that is NOT cordless). Works like a champ every time for me when I need it.

Still doesn't help with putting it back on though.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I went through this a few months ago getting a JDM crankshaft pulley off: JDM Crank Pulley Will Not Come Off! In Sac & Need Help.

Chain wrench did it for me. Since you are trying to put yours on, you'll want to put some rubber lining to prevent the chain wrench from nicking the pulley grooves. It will hold the pulley very, very tight and allow you to torque the new nut on. There's a decent 24" chain wrench on Amazon I bought.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Here are some measurements, though this diagram is of a steel plate welded to a steel bar:

What I would recommend though is a 3/8" flat bar piece of metal connected in a "V" at one end. I can snap a picture later tonight of what I have if you need more of an idea (I didn't have one in my timing belt album for some reason). The thicker the metal the better, don't end up with it looking like this:

That plan is what I used to build mine. It’s 36” long and 4” wide.


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[phattyduck]

I went through this a few months ago getting a JDM crankshaft pulley off: JDM Crank Pulley Will Not Come Off! In Sac & Need Help.

Chain wrench did it for me. Since you are trying to put yours on, you'll want to put some rubber lining to prevent the chain wrench from nicking the pulley grooves. It will hold the pulley very, very tight and allow you to torque the new nut on. There's a decent 24" chain wrench on Amazon I bought.

You don't really want to apply large amounts of torque to the outside of a crank pulley. The inner and outer section is separated by a rubber ring that can separate. That's why the SST is needed.

I have always just used an impact at full strength to re-torque crank pulley bolts... but sometimes I like to live on the edge. :lalala:

-Charlie

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Here is what the business end looks like


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[Outrider]

This is what I made for my daughter's Protege5. It just so happened to have the same bolt hole spacing as my T4R. Lucky me. My timing belt job would have been impossible without something like this. My pneumatic impact wrench wouldn't budge the bolt. I bolted this thing on, lined up the bar with a solid part of the chassis, and bumped the starter. That did the trick. I also got real lucky in that it happened to fit inside my cam pulleys, so I was able to break those very stubborn bolts loose. Once again, I couldn't have done my timing belt job without it.

The pictures of it installed were taken when I made it for the Protege5 pulley. The main bar is 1x1 square tube, and the bolt blocks are 1" bar stock. If I recall, the pulley bolt holes are spaced 175mm. I know my welds look crappy, but they hold. I normally practice welding when I start a project, which is usually a year or more since I last welded.

 

[MaineRunna]

It sounds like he got the bolt off but he needs a way to hold it while torquing it to spec.

If all else fails and you cannot fab anything up, you could try the rope trick (google/youtube search it).

I just realized that after reading more. I usually put them back on with an impact gun also, those things are tightened to the spec of wicked tight.

 

[TheDurk]

I just realized that after reading more. I usually put them back on with an impact gun also, those things are tightened to the spec of wicked tight.

I wouldn't have the courage to do that. Yes 217 ft-lbs. is 'wicked tight', but it is so tight and the application is so critical and high stress that you might cause that bolt to break if overtorqued or back off if undertorqued. The consequences of ether can easily be a need for a new engine. I invested in both a new torque wrench (good to 250 ft-lbs.) and the tool (nothing, as I had all the pieces on hand, plus about 40 minutes work). I would not want to drive that rig thinking that bolt might go at any minute.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You don't really want to apply large amounts of torque to the outside of a crank pulley. The inner and outer section is separated by a rubber ring that can separate. That's why the SST is needed.

I have always just used an impact at full strength to re-torque crank pulley bolts... but sometimes I like to live on the edge. :lalala:

-Charlie

I put 400 lbs of torque on that stupid JDM pulley and it held together like it was a solid unit. But I do know what you mean, they can separate.

I also just whack the heck out of it with my air impact when putting it on. Never had an issue taking them back off (which I have done).

 

[MaineRunna]

I wouldn't have the courage to do that. Yes 217 ft-lbs. is 'wicked tight', but it is so tight and the application is so critical and high stress that you might cause that bolt to break if overtorqued or back off if undertorqued. The consequences of ether can easily be a need for a new engine. I invested in both a new torque wrench (good to 250 ft-lbs.) and the tool (nothing, as I had all the pieces on hand, plus about 40 minutes work). I would not want to drive that rig thinking that bolt might go at any minute.

How do you think the tech at the Toyota dealer or your local independent is putting that bolt back on? I've put so many axle nuts and other fasteners back on with impacts then finished them with a torque wrench that I'm comfortable using impacts big and small for most stuff. If it's torque critical like wheel bearing pre-load, internal engine components, or differential set up then yes it has to be torqued properly. Your not likely to break the 14mm crank bolt with a 1/2" or smaller impact and also not likely to end up with it dangerously under torqued. I guess what I'm saying is if you have a torque wrench that goes to 250 ft lbs and a way to hold to hold the crankshaft than do it, but if all you have is an electric or pneumatic impact gun it is OK to use.