Crankshaft Timing mishap

[mendozer]

Just put everything together yesterday following my top end rebuild. Everything was at TDC as following the FSM with the pulleys and such. Belt gets on, the timing covers are put on and...now the crankshaft is about an inch to the right of :0" on the guide. But as you can see in the picture the camshafts are still at TDC and I even took it a full revolution to see if it kept timing and it did. What you can't see in the photo is the crankshaft pulley mark, but it is aligned with the paint mark on the oil pump body. what gives??

The only things I can think of that are "different" in my process is:

1. I put antiszeize on the crankshaft pulley inside of the bore that slides over the crankshalf bolt cylinder. It was a major PITA to get off so I figured that should help in the future.

2. the torque wrench I loaned out from autozone (since mine doesn't go to 250) wasn't calibrated well. I set it to 217 and torqued it. Then on a whim I thought I'd check, so I got my digital one and set it to 100 and cranked on it, maxxed out at 89. So I went back and torqued the bolt again to "228" to theoretically compensate for the wrench being out of spec. Otherwise I was following the FSM the WHOLE time

 

[19963.4lsr5]

It may have moved when you released the tensioner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mendozer]

hmmm, I'll take a peak and remove the lower timing cover to check. if it is off, I can simply remove the belt from the crank gear, turn it back (going clockwise I still assume) to TDC then slip it on while keeping tension on the camshafts right?

also to reword what I meant, antiseize is on the inside of the harmonic balancer, not the pulley gear. just wanted to be clear on that.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Before releasing the tensioner pin, did you confirm that all the marks lined up properly? i.e. the two cam timing marks with the grooves in the No 3 timing belt cover, and the crankshaft timing pulley with the oil pump body "notch"? If these aligned correctly before the tensioner was released, you should be good to go.

Antiseize and torque values should not affect alignment in any way, as these are all keyed to timing belt teeth.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Before releasing the tensioner pin, did you confirm that all the marks lined up properly? i.e. the two cam timing marks with the grooves in the No 3 timing belt cover, and the crankshaft timing pulley with the oil pump body "notch"? If these aligned correctly before the tensioner was released, you should be good to go.

Antiseize and torque values should not affect alignment in any way, as these are all keyed to timing belt teeth.

And the woodruff key in the crank holding the timing gear on the crank in place.

You do have the key in the crank correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TheDurk]

And the woodruff key in the crank holding the timing gear on the crank in place.

You do have the key in the crank correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Something tells me this is the issue. Otherwise, the key got sheared somehow. Final possibility is the Pulley did not engage the short end of the key that sticks out from under the sprocket and the pulley shifted during tightening or was not aligned in the first place.

Did you try and start her? If the crank sprocket is in time, it doesn't matter where the pulley is, except when you try to use the timing marks, which don't really tell you much. It should run just fine.

 

[mendozer]

yes to all those thing. I took it off and saw that things seemed to have moved a tiny bit. I took it all off and re-did it following the FSM again, no parts are damaged either. install tensioner (not released yet), and did a full revolution CW on the crank bolt. Everything came back perfect. release tension and walked away for a bit to do something. Slipped the harmonic balancer on and over the key to see that the zero mark was about an inch off. so I'm like WTF and I look at the three timing marks and all three are just off to the right, so the tensioner DID push it off. Did a full revolution with the harmonic balancer and everything's back at 0. So in the end...it just migrated and may have been fine all along. BUT...In doing this I picked up another crank bolt bc I'm paranoid and torqued it back. This time I wanted to compare things. I set my 1/2" torque wrench to 150 which is the max and put it on my digital gauge. maxxed out at 135 before I was pulling the table over and turning the vise. Put the loaner on it, set to 217, and it still maxxed at 109. So...this torque wrench is garbage and I just can't trust it. So maybe my previous crank bolt's fine.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

So just to check, here are the FSM steps (condensed version):

- With tensioner off, set No 1 Cyl to TDC (timing mark on crank timing pulley lines up with oil pump body):

- Turn cam pulleys until their timing marks line up with No 3 timing cover grooves:

- Install timing belt so that the three marks line up correctly: L-CAM, R-CAM, and CR:

- Install the tensioner and release the pin.

- Turn the crankshaft and confirm that the three marks still line up (RH and LH timing pulleys with No 3 timing cover marks, and crankshaft timing pulley mark with oil pump body).

I think if you confirmed all this during assembly, you are good to go.

As for torquing the crank bolt, that should not affect alignment of the pulleys, but obviously you should have a torque wrench you can trust .

 

[mendozer]

Yeah everything's good now. My belt didn't have any of those marks actually but that's fine. Just had toyota part number on it

Now that I've gotten past that, I'm onto my next headache which is getting the stupid AC drive belt on. It's a new one and it's seemingly physically impossible.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Yeah everything's good now. My belt didn't have any of those marks actually but that's fine. Just had toyota part number on it

Now that I've gotten past that, I'm onto my next headache which is getting the stupid AC drive belt on. It's a new one and it's seemingly physically impossible.

Perhaps you are already doing this, but the trick to V-belts is to slip the belt onto the smaller pulleys first, and the largest pulley last.

 

[mendozer]

Yeah the AC one was too tight. Brand new OEM (Mitsuboshi)and I ended up messing up a V groove so I cut it off. I had a spare Bando (same size) and it went right on. Go figure.

I've been estimating the tension since I don't have the dial gauge. I just wiggle it with my hand and if it's 1/4" for smaller distances and 1/2" for larger I'm calling that good.