Crap... broke something in steering

alms_lefko

New member
So I was going to do my rear pads/rotors. But when I pulled the wheel noticed I had 1/2 pad left. Since they were off I figured it was a good time to bleed the brakes.

Took it for a drive. drove fine... wanted to test the ABS... about 30 mph and the car just locked. Heard a pop and my steering got SUPER sloppy. Wheel 45 degrees from center to drive straight and VSC lights and Traction lights came on.

Turned car off, and back on and the lights are off... but after a few mins of driving they came back on...

What did I break? Crawled under the car and the passenger side tie rod boot is torn... But I can't imagine THAT would cause the VSC lights...
 
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Could be a rack and pinion issue.

You should do some more investigating. Take some pictures if you see anything out of place and maybe we can help diagnose.
 
Put the front of the truck on jackstands, and have a helper turn the wheel left and right while you crawl under and watch. If you've got that much play in your steering, it should be insanely easy to spot what's not moving when the steering shaft is.
 
Put the front of the truck on jackstands, and have a helper turn the wheel left and right while you crawl under and watch. If you've got that much play in your steering, it should be insanely easy to spot what's not moving when the steering shaft is.

That I can do. the worst is when I turn the wheel all the way.

When driving straight it's almost like the tie rods are bad. I've replaced tie Ross on other cars and had the steering wheel totally off until they got adjusted.

I just can't imagine a tie rod causing traction lights...?
 
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Ok, here is a video and some pictures. The steering will not return to center after turning. I just go in a circle. Could it be something as simple as the hard stop just jacked up my toe/caster? Is that even possible? Everything seems to be turning... Should I be able to rotate the tie rod while the wheels are on the ground?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xs3NdJPRlFQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhL7V4RFi8E

Here is my straight ahead steering
D5733059-2B78-4510-9D04-2E4D61F8168E_zpsptsqflpo.jpg~original


Passenger side:
196A9E66-AF24-4C1F-9EE2-1FA9B86A158B_zps1h0hg4fv.jpg~original


F79B4C27-8C6C-49BB-B3E3-AAB50A6E920A_zps9j2vaium.jpg~original


Drivers side:
58CA10D6-597A-447B-B39B-215CC45C304A_zps8vv08duq.jpg~original


A65687B9-51F1-462D-BF68-092323CDAD37_zpspaf1fh48.jpg~original
 
I have a lifetime Firestone alignment. Going to bring it to them tomorrow... If something is bent/broken I'm sure they'll tell me!
 
what do the caliper and pads look like?

Replaced the front pads/rotors and drivers caliper within the last 12 months. Drivers side was frozen. Wondering if part of the passenger side was frozen now and thats why my wheels locked. Read that could be a cause of ABS not activating. The thud I heard did come from the passenger side.

When I went to do my rear brakes I took off the passenger side rear caliper to check the pads and had to retract the piston a hair to slide it back over - it retracted no problem. But did not look/take off the passenger side rear either.
 
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Replaced the front pads/rotors and drivers caliper within the last 12 months. Drivers side was frozen. Wondering if part of the passenger side was frozen now and thats why my wheels locked. Read that could be a cause of ABS not activating. The thud I heard did come from the passenger side.

When I went to do my rear brakes I took off the passenger side rear caliper to check the pads and had to retract the piston a hair to slide it back over - it retracted no problem. But did not look/take off the passenger side rear either.

Check your rear control arms, sounds like one of your lower arms might have snapped.
 
They showed me the lower arm cam/camber bolt frame has no edges and he said the bolt was sized (the front bolt). Replace? Or replace the entire lower CA?

7F947E81-EB53-4351-9CFD-2F9D209AFCCC_zpsan8chfs9.jpg~original


58C0513B-94A0-4C3B-82FD-FE8118212737_zpsigjwvfru.jpg~original
 
My guess is one or more of the lower cams moved while under the stress of your panic stop resulting in your alignment being way off. Torque spec is only 100 ft/lbs for the LCA cams which barely holds them under normal driving much less under extreme conditions.
 
My guess is one or more of the lower cams moved while under the stress of your panic stop resulting in your alignment being way off. Torque spec is only 100 ft/lbs for the LCA cams which barely holds them under normal driving much less under extreme conditions.

So, should I replace the seized cam bolt/sheered of cam tab?
 
You need new tabs, a welding shop can either bend them back and weld then in place. Or you could just get beefier ones from Total Chaos and have them welded in.

The cam bolts and cams may need to be replaced, but until they are taken off it's hard to tell.
 

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